Peter Copping Makes His Debut for Lanvin Fall 2025

Style Points is a weekly column about how fashion intersects with the wider world.

Jeanne Lanvin may have been one of the first creators of what we now call a “lifestyle brand.” The designer’s empire expanded quickly and exponentially, accordion-ing out from interiors and perfume to athletic wear and bridal. She even developed her own signature shade of sky-meets-sea blue, which still adorns Lanvin shopping bags and boxes today.

The maison remains the oldest French fashion house still in operation. So before his debut as its artistic director, Peter Copping, the Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci alum, faced that eternal new-designer dilemma: How do you pay homage while still innovating? He looked to the founder’s expansive life for what he called a “deeply personal” collection, “an homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s world and her intimate sense of style,” writing in his show notes that “I sought to project the essence of her wardrobe today while imagining it on a cast of modern characters.”

Lanvin saw her daughter Marguerite as her greatest muse—Lanvin moved from millinery into ready-to-wear after clients admired the getups she designed for Marguerite—and the logo for the house even depicted a mother and child. Working with DM Casting, Copping enlisted models of varying ages to give the proceedings an intergenerational feel. He also looked to the motifs of Lanvin’s home and to her initials, replicating their shape across multiple items. And of course, that shade of blue, which found its way onto smaller touches, like bags.

Copping channeled the exquisite beading and embellishments Lanvin was known for during the height of Art Deco, on everything from a swingy capelet blouse to a paillette-crowded evening gown to a red dress that trailed ribbons. A strapless number, in the crinkled gold of a candy wrapper, felt like a perfect update on the debutante classic. Other looks were cut in the drop-waisted silhouette of the founder’s signature robe de style.

Even for those not as attuned to the house lore, there was still much to appreciate, whether it was the careful draping on simple T-shirts or the relaxed trench coats. Luckily, Lanvin’s work was not just modern by her standards, but by ours.

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