Phoebe Philo Returns to Fashion with Her Own Label
Phoebe Philo, that pied-piper of luxe minimalism, is back with her own label after a three-year hiatus. With a collection not expected until early 2022, confirmed details are few and far between: the namesake label falls under LVMH's umbrella as a minority investor (LVMH also owns Chloé and Celine, where Philo worked previously), is based in London, where a team is already assembled and work is underway, and is focused on sustainability.
“Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling,” Philo said in a statement. “I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere.”
But what will Philo 3.0 look like? In 2001, when she ascended the role as creative director at Chloé, she offered up platforms and wedge-heels, high-waisted jeans, enormous bags—fashion's alternative to the Paris Hilton-aesthetic that was raging all around. Then, in 2008, she re-emerged at Celine with a refined, pared-back approach that continues to dominate the industry—even today her work at Celine is immortalized in fashion accounts like @oldceline and a new generation of designers who cite her influence. Slow fashion. Sustainability. Using older icons, like Joan Didion, as models. Philo was a pioneer to many of the tenets that fashion's new order holds dear, which is perhaps why it is hard to difficult to imagine what might come next. She is one of the few modern designers who has fully lived up to Diana Vreeland's edict,"You're not supposed to give people what they want, you're supposed to give them what they don't know that they want yet."
But one thing we want is clear: more Philo!
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