Should you use retinol around the eyes? Here's how to do it correctly
Retinol, a vitamin A-derivative, is a dermatologist's favourite clinically proven ingredient for diminishing fine lines, lifting slack skin and brightening the complexion. Found in various products, from face serums to retinol body lotions, this potent ingredient can sometimes lead to unwanted side effects (think flaky skin and irritation) when used incorrectly, so it's no surprise that many are still wary about using retinol around the eyes.
Is it safe to use retinol on the eye area?
The skin around the eyes is thinner and more delicate, hence it is more susceptible to sensitivity and irritation. It also means that wrinkles generally form around the eye area first. While the appearance of fine lines is completely normal (and doesn't need reversing), if you are looking to plump them out, retinol is an excellent ingredient to do so - when used properly.
"It is generally safe to use retinol on the under-eye area, but it must be approached with caution," agrees the consultant plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr. Georgina Williams, who also founded the ultra-chic skin clinic, Montrose London.
What to look for in a retinol eye cream
This is the one instance where it is worth investing in a targeted retinol eye cream. "Choose a formulation specifically designed for sensitive areas and start with a lower concentration to gauge your skin's tolerance," says Dr Williams. You'll notice that modern formulas often use 'encapsulated' or 'time/slow-release' retinol. This means that the ingredient is activated gradually within the skin to avoid aggravating the complexion. Skin-fortifying ingredients such as hydrating butters, peptides, squalane and ceramides will also strengthen the skin while nourishing it.
What are the benefits of a retinol eye cream?
Just like for the rest of your face, retinol will help stimulate collagen production which helps to minimise fine lines. Dr Williams adds: "Retinol also aids in increasing cell turnover, which can improve skin texture and tone, potentially brightening the under-eye area and reducing the appearance of dark circles. With consistent use, retinol can contribute to a more rejuvenated appearance."
When to start using a retinol eye cream
Considering how sensitive the eye area is and the potency of retinol as an active ingredient, dermatologists agree that the best time to start is from your mid-twenties to your early thirties. Anyone younger should steer clear (unless advised by a medical professional, not a skin-fluencer) to avoid compromising delicate skin.
That said, it's never too late to start your retinol eye cream. Great formulas are packed with nourishing ingredients alongside retinol, which means even the most mature complexions can reap its benefits.
How to use a retinol eye cream
Always start slowly and with a low concentration, every two or three evenings, to help your skin build tolerance. If all looks good over the next few weeks, you can start increasing the frequency. "Take a tiny amount and gently dab it onto the skin, going up as far as the orbital rim (where the bone of your eye socket is) avoiding going up any further than that," says Dr Williams, who's also a fan of the 'sandwiching' method. "Apply a hydrating, simple eye cream as an undercoat before and after applying the retinol to create a protective barrier and minimise potential dryness or irritation."
It goes without saying but since retinol degrades in sunlight (thus minimising its benefits), it's best to use it in the evening. It can also make your skin more sensitive to UV rays following use which is why the grey days of winter are a great time to start including retinol in your skincare routine. That said, always protect your skin with SPF, no matter the weather or season.
If you do notice any redness, peeling, or irritation, give the product a break and check in with a skincare professional if the reaction persists.
Ahead, the beauty editor-approved retinol eye creams to try
Medik8 r-Retinoate® Day & Night Eye Serum
Medik8 sets the bar high for retinol. This creamy eye serum uses encapsulated retinyl retinoate which performs faster than retinol when it comes to smoothing out fine lines, diminishing dark circles and redefining the eye contours. The formula is safe for use both day and night for maximum impact without unwanted side effects.
111Skin Black Diamond Eye Cream
Tackle fine lines, dullness, dark circles and dryness in one fell swoop with this hard-hitting formula. It's brimming with scientifically-proven actives, with a silky texture that sinks quickly into skin. It uses hydroxypinacolone retinoate, a retinoic acid ester that's stable (hence, better for sensitive skin types). Alongside it, you'll find plumping peptides and the brand's patented NAC Y² antioxidant complex which supports skin's elasticity and reduces wrinkle formation. Centella asiatica and aloe vera keeps any inflammation at bay.
Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Eye Cream
Rich textures have a tendency to clog combination and oily skin types, sometimes triggering the formation of milia around the eyes. Seeking out a non-occlusive formula like this one softens skin, minus the white bumps. The combination of retinol and ceramides promise to minimise fine lines without upsetting the skin's natural barrier, while the lightweight texture delivers gentle hydration.
Olay Regenerist Retinol24 MAX Night Eye Cream
The addition of niacinamide here helps to encourage hydration while giving dark under-eyes a brightening boost, while the retinoid complex gets to work on fine lines. This plush cream feels extra comforting on parched skin, making it an especially good choice for dry skin types.
Lancaster Crème Princière Yeux
The heritage brand beloved by Grace Kelly has reformulated its Princière line to include retinols developed especially for delicate skin. This buttery-soft formula contains nourishing ingredients such as peptides and niacinamide alongside adenosine which helps encourage collagen production for a smoother, tauter texture. It uses cationic liposomal Retinol (exclusive to the brand) to deliver the benefits of retinol without upsetting the skin barrier.
Kate Somerville +Retinol Firming Eye Cream
The cool-tipped applicator of Kate Somerville's offering feels refreshing on fatigued eyes, making this a useful addition to a jet-setter's beauty bag. The cocktail of retinol and bakuchiol (a retinol alternative which acts as a protective antioxidant) helps to smooth out crepey texture and gives the under-eyes a boost. There's a very slight iridescence here to illuminate tired complexions, too.
Murad Retinal ReSculpt Overnight Eye Lift Treatment
A little goes a long way with this hard-hitting formula, which uses encapsulated retinal (a more potent form of vitamin A) to address uneven texture while encouraging collagen production to lift the skin around the eyes. Jojoba esters and shea butter deliver hydration so you can reap all the smoothing benefits without sacrificing moisture.
La Roche-Posay Redermic [R] Retinol Eye Cream
If you are prone to sensitivity, French skincare label La Roche-Posay is always a good place to start as its formulas are consistently dermatologist-recommended and known for being gentle. This eye cream uses slow-release retinol that performs better on reactive complexions and is laced with caffeine to help perk up tired eyes.
Origins Plantscription Wrinkle Correction Eye Cream
The star ingredient here is encapsulated retinol, which essentially means that the retinol is 'packaged' in a barrier of lipids or fatty acids so it penetrates deeper into the skin and limits any adverse reactions. This creamy texture feels especially lovely on complexions prone to dryness, and is powered by peptides to help plump up fine lines.
The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream
Slow-release retinol delivers noticeable line-plumping results without aggravating sensitive complexions, while a cushioning base of shea butter and glycerin helps minimise any drying side effects.
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