Retinol vs retinal: the retinoid family explained in detail
You don't have to be a skincare obsessive to know that retinoid products pack a serious punch when it comes to achieving plump, glowing skin. From reducing pigmentation and preventing clogged pores, smoothing fine lines and fading acne scars, this family of vitamin A derivatives is worth getting to know. But the options can be overwhelming: now, you'll find products boasting retinol (the most commonly known retinoid) sitting alongside a host of similar siblings, from retinal to tretinoin via retinol esters, retinaldehyde, and natural retinol alternatives.
As the retinoid family continues to expand, we ask the experts what the difference really is and where we should start...
Retinoids, retinol and retinal
Aside from the spelling, there are very subtle differences between the different types of retinoid. “Retinoids are a broad class of skincare ingredients derived from vitamin A, each with varying degrees of potency,” Dr David Jack, aesthetic doctor and brand founder, explains.
“Retinol, retinal (or retinaldehyde), and retinoic acid (also known as tretinoin) are all types of retinoid. Retinol is the most common over-the-counter form and, as the alcohol form of vitamin A, requires two conversion steps in the skin to become the active form (retinoic acid). Retinal, often seen as the middle ground, is just one step away from conversion to retinoic acid, making it more potent and faster-acting than retinol.”
Still with us? The latter is used at a lower percentage versus retinol, as less is needed for the same effect, and it’s generally available over the counter in most countries. But retinoic acid (which is instantly bio-available and can be used by the skin immediately, as there are no chemical conversion steps) is only available via a prescription.
Who should use which retinoid?
The good news is that all skin types can get in on the action: even those with sensitive skin. “Retinoids can be irritating, but the key is in the formulation,” Sarah Chapman, facialist and brand founder, says. “Introduce one slowly – twice a week to start with and gradually increase if your skin is happy, until you're able to use your product nightly."
Although typically drying on the skin for most, Jack believes that for those with more resilient complexions, retinoic acid is ideal for a more potent treatment to tackle severe acne or advanced signs of ageing. “It’s recommended to start incorporating retinoids in your mid-20s to early 30s, as this is when collagen production starts to decline,” he says.
“If you’re new to retinoids, begin with a low concentration of retinol or retinaldehyde, around 0.1% to 0.3%, and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. Advanced users might use concentrations up to 2%. For retinal, however, starting at 0.05% to 0.1% is advisable, while retinoic acid should be used under the guidance of a specialist due to its potency.”
How to use retinoids best
Whether you're a skincare novice or a bonafide expert, the key to using the retinoid family is to go slow and pick your timing carefully. “The autumn and winter months are the best time to introduce retinoids as we need to boost cell renewal and, as the retinoid family is photoreactive (meaning they break down and lose potency when exposed to UV), it's best if we have minimum UV exposure,” Chapman says.
“Retinol and retinal can be used together but it depends on the formulation and the individual's skin. I have combined both retinol and retinal in my Power 1 Vitamin A Serum so you have the dual phase of release in the skin: as the retinal acts more quickly, this helps also to avoid over-saturation too quickly and hence minimises irritation.”
From glycolic acid to peptides via vitamin C, there are a multitude of skincare ingredients now competing for a place in our day-to-day routines. One wrong combination and you could have a full-blown skincare SOS on your hands. To get it right, Jack recommends starting with a low application frequency and making sure your products play nicely together. “Start with just twice a week when using a retinoid and gradually increase as your skin adjusts,” he begins. “It’s crucial to use these products at night because retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. What's more, avoid combining retinoids with too many other potentially irritating ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or benzoyl peroxide, as this can increase the risk of skin upset. Always follow up with a good moisturiser to help mitigate dryness, and never skip face SPF during the day.”
For one last takeaway, Dr Anita Sturnham, founder of Decree, warns not to be swayed by the constant drip of new formulas. “Look for a good quality cosmeceutical-grade product,” she says. “Serums are the best way to deliver this ingredient into the skin rather than toners or moisturisers as they are designed to deliver the nutrients into the deeper dermal layers.” After a recommendation? Right this way...
You Might Also Like
