How to Get Rid of Blackheads the Right Way

fizkes/Getty Images

Of all the skin-care concerns, how to get rid of blackheads can be one of the most frustrating. For one, blackheads are stubborn and hard to safely remove without professional help. You can try to dig them out yourself, but you risk traumatizing your skin in a way that makes the blackhead you removed seem like NBD (think: scarring or hyperpigmentation).

Fortunately, there’s some middle ground in both removing and preventing blackheads. We asked top dermatologists exactly how to get rid of blackheads—and keep them from coming back. Here’s everything you need to know, from the best skin-care products for blackhead treatment to professional options.

What are blackheads?

First, it helps to know what blackheads are (as Sun Tzu says, know your enemy). “Blackheads form when the opening of a pore on your skin becomes clogged with sebum,” says Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD, a dermatologist in Westport, Connecticut.

According to board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp of MDCS Dermatology, blackheads are commonly mistaken for dirty pores. “It is a misconception that blackheads actually represent dirt stuck in pores,” he says. “Blackheads are also referred to as open comedones. They are a type of acne that occurs on the skin.”

What causes blackheads?

Dr. Camp says that blackheads are a side effect of excess oil and clogged sebum. “Dead skin and oil that accumulates in the pore are oxidized as they are exposed to air, which causes them to turn dark in color, or black,” he adds. Hence the term blackhead.

Is it okay to squeeze blackheads?

As tempting as it may be, dermatologists universally advise against squeezing blackheads.

“It is not recommended to squeeze pimples, including blackheads,” says Dr. Camp. “The reason for this is that rupture of the follicle can cause discoloration, scarring, and increase the risk of skin infection.” And a full-blown infection or scar is much harder to combat than a blackhead.

Do blackheads go away naturally?

As for whether blackheads go away naturally? “Blackheads are a form of acne, which can be a chronic skin condition. There is no cure for acne,” Dr. Camp explains.

And if you don’t remove blackheads? Dr. Camp says the skin condition may worsen and lead to even more issues. “Left untreated, blackheads cause the skin to look congested. Larger blackheads could develop into cysts or inflammatory acne,” he says. “Blackheads that persist may require treatment, be it an OTC option or a prescription from a dermatologist.”

Do blackheads leave holes?

If you’re worried about leaving holes in your skin after blackhead removal, Dr. Camp says not to worry. “Blackheads do not leave holes in the skin,” he says. “Removing a blackhead can make the opening of a pore look more noticeable, which can appear like a small hole in the skin, but that hole was there before the blackhead. The blackhead may have made it more noticeable because the pore was dilated as a result of congestion.”

How to remove blackheads

Learning how to get rid of blackheads at home can be a game changer, since they can stick around when left unchecked. “Some blackheads can persist for days, weeks, or even months if not extracted, while your body usually clears small whiteheads within a week to 10 days,” says dermatologist Laurel Geraghty, MD. These tweaks to your skin-care routine can help.

Wondering what draws out blackheads? There are a few methods to consider, including DIY fixes and cult-favorite products. To decide which is best for you, we’ve broken down all the ways to remove blackheads.

Steam your face.

Before you attempt an extraction at home, it’s crucial to loosen up and soften the debris trapped in your pores with some heat. A face steamer is a great way to do this, but if you don’t have one, celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau has a system that will work in a pinch. Start by taking a shower or washing your face, then apply a thin layer of the heaviest moisturizer you own to the area you’re extracting. “Moisturizer will create a temporary occlusive seal to keep the heat trapped in your skin, which makes extractions more seamless,” says Rouleau.

Then cover the area with plastic wrap and apply a hot, damp washcloth, then layer another one on top. “Layering the washcloths will ensure that the heat is retained in your skin,” she says. “For safe extractions and the easiest removal, it’s important to have your skin as soft as possible.” After a few minutes, remove the cloths and the plastic, and add another layer of moisturizer to keep your skin moist before going into your extractions.

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Pro Facial Steamer

$159.00, Sephora

NanoSteamer Large 3-in-1

$50.00, Amazon

If you must squeeze, never use your nails.

While pros really suggest against squeezing blackheads, you might not be able to resist the temptation. If you absolutely insist, “the key is to be gentle,” says Dr. Geraghty. “Every day I see patients who pick, scratch, and extract spots on their skin, and this puts them at risk of permanent scarring.”

Here’s a primer: Start with completely clean hands and remember not to place your fingers too close to the blackhead. “Widen them out a bit so that the blackhead will be extracted more easily from a deeper level within your skin,” says Rouleau. While squeezing, relocate your fingers to make it easier and to avoid creating marks. “For example, position fingers at three o’clock and nine o’clock, and then five o’clock and ten o’clock, then two o’clock and seven o’clock,” she says. Do not use your nails, lest you puncture your skin.

Better yet, use an extractor tool.

An extractor tool is used in-office by most aestheticians, so if you’re trying to closely replicate your favorite facial, it’s your best bet. To use it correctly, place the open tips on each side of the blackhead. Rouleau says to keep the tweezer body perpendicular to where you’re extracting, and keep the curved part of the tips on your skin. “Gently press on each side of the blackhead until it begins to release,” she says. “Apply slow and even pressure, and once you are able, lightly pinch the tweezers and pull the blacked-out material from the skin to extract it. If the blackhead does not release easily, do not continue to attempt the extraction.”

When you’re done, gently wipe your skin with an antibacterial, alcohol-free toner like her Rapid Response Detox Toner.

Beauté Galleria Premium Stainless-Steel Curved Blemish Extractor Tool

$6.00, Amazon

Renée Rouleau Rapid Response Detox Toner

$40.00, Renée Rouleau

Use a pore strip.

An oldie but a goodie, these help get rid of blackheads in the most basic way: by plucking it out. “It’s essentially putting a Band-Aid on your nose,” says Dr. Robinson. “So if your skin has been adequately prepped with warm water and the pore is open, the suction from removing the strip will lift the trapped debris to the surface.” That said, they’re not really treating blackheads; they’re just removing the uppermost (and visible) portion. Bioré Charcoal Deep Cleansing Pore Strips pairs that clearing power with charcoal, which has detoxifying properties.

Bioré Deep Cleansing Charcoal Pore Strips

$10.00, Amazon

Try some gadgets.

If your fingers aren’t enough to safely extract a blackhead, some of the best skin-care tools should make it easier. Mona Gohara, MD, a dermatologist in Connecticut, recommends a metal comedone extractor, as that’s what she uses in-office. We’re also big fans of skin spatulas that vibrate to help excavate buildup in your pores.

Professional Blackhead and Blemish Remover

$4.00, Amazon

Dermaflash Dermapore Ultrasonic Pore Extractor

$109.00, Dermaflash

There are also pore vacuums, which literally suck the debris out of your skin. But it’s worth doing some research before using one, since sometimes they can be too strong and do more harm than good. Dr. Gohara likes the Lonove vacuum since it has gentle suction and a blue light to calm inflammation.

However, if you have a deep skin tone, it’s worth erring on the side of caution. “Those of us with brown skin have more of a tendency toward hyperpigmentation with procedures,” says Dr. Gohara. “I recommend staying away from suction and sticking with gentle methods such as steam extractions to avoid skin trauma.”

Sacoto Blackhead Remover Pore Vacuum

$19.00, Amazon

Learn when to let go of a stubborn blackhead.

You should really only be targeting the darkest, more obvious blackheads from the start. But if one of those dark blackheads doesn’t pop, take a deep breath and let it be. “My general rule is three strikes and you’re out,” says Rouleau. “Meaning, if it doesn’t come out after three tries, don’t do it any longer or you’ll risk damaging your skin or potentially breaking a capillary.” If it’s not coming out, that means it’s not the time to remove it. You can just come back to it another day. It’s better than causing damage.

There’s also, of course, the chance that what you think is a blackhead might not actually be a blackhead at all. Dr. Geraghty points out that deep cysts or milia can masquerade as blackheads, and both necessitate a visit to the dermatologist since both require more than a simple extraction.

See a pro.

Sometimes it’s best to let a pro handle it. “If it’s a struggle to get blackheads out and you’re not getting results, then definitely see a pro,” says Rouleau.

“It’s safest to see a well-trained aesthetician or dermatologist who can perform in-office extractions or microdermabrasion,” says Dr. Geraghty. Microdermabrasion is a gentle exfoliating treatment that often involves a little pen or wand that acts like a mini sandblaster and vacuum cleaner in one.

Dermatologists can also perform extractions on stubborn blackheads in the office, adds Dr. Camp. “They can also offer chemical peels with salicylic acid, retinol, and glycolic acid to prevent and treat acne.”

Try a HydraFacial.

If you struggle with constant blackheads, Dr. Gohara recommends trying a HydraFacial, which pairs gentle suction to remove trapped debris and then infuses skin with moisture—think of it as an amped-up facial. “This is a great way to keep pores clean without overly stripping your skin of moisture,” says Dr. Robinson.

How to draw out a deep blackhead

“For stubborn, deep blackheads consider applying a warm wet compress on the area prior to application of acne medication,” says Dr. Camp. “The water will saturate the plug of oil and dead skin and may improve the penetration of acne-fighting ingredients.”

If at-home treatments do not work, Dr. Camp suggests seeing a board-certified dermatologist for treatment.

Bliss Clear Genius Acne Spot Treatment

$15.00, Amazon

La Roche Posay Effaclar Salicylic Acid Treatment

$43.00, Amazon

How to prevent blackheads

Use salicylic acid.

According to Dr. Camp, developing a routine that incorporates acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid can help prevent the formation of blackheads. Some of the most popular products for the job include Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant and salicylic-acid-spiked clay masks like Murad Rapid Relief Acne Sulfur Clay Mask with Salicylic Acid. But there’s no need to use them all the time; more on that below.

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

$35.00, Amazon

Murad Rapid Relief Acne Sulfur Clay Mask with Salicylic Acid

$44.00, Amazon

Wash with a gentle cleanser.

Resist the temptation to launch a scrubby assault on your blackheads. In fact, the best cleanser for blackheads is going to be a very gentle one.

“It will not overly strip your skin of moisture, which actually can trigger the overproduction of sebum and further exacerbate the problem,” says Dr. Robinson. She’s a fan of cleansers that contain glycolic acid, which clears out pores. Try an option like SkinCeuticals LHA Cleanser Gel, which, she says, “marries glycolic acid and salicylic acid with glycerin and sorbitol, which act as humectants and help your skin retain moisture.” Win-win.

CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser

$18.00, Amazon

SkinCeuticals LHA Cleanser Gel

$41.00, SkinCeuticals

Exfoliate regularly.

“Exfoliating two to three times per week can also help reduce the likelihood of development of blocked pores,” says Dr. Camp.

For exfoliation, opt for acids. “I much prefer chemical exfoliants to physical ones, which means turning to chemical peels and alpha hydroxy acids versus a scrub,” says Dr. Robinson. “Scrubs can cause micro-tears in your skin.” Keep a lookout for ingredients like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid.

Specifically, Dr. Robinson likes salicylic acid, which can dive deep into your pores and dissolve the sebum that’s causing the clogs. “It essentially keeps pores open and clean,” she says. We love BeautyRx Skincare Dermstick for Pores, since you can use it to exfoliate smaller, blackhead-prone areas like your nose.

First Aid Beauty FAB Pharma White Clay Acne Treatment Pads 2% Salicylic Acid

$30.00, Amazon

BeautyRx by Dr. Schultz Dermstick Pore Minimizer

$29.00, Amazon

Make sure to moisturize.

The best skin-care routine to eliminate blackheads includes a great moisturizer. Even though oil production is a contributor to blackheads, avoiding it will only backfire. In fact, keeping your skin’s oil levels balanced (versus nonexistent) is key to minimizing blackheads. While some heavy oils, such as avocado oil, can clog your pores, a lack of oil causes your skin to produce more of it—which leads to, you guessed it, more breakouts.

“Overly dry skin can start to produce excess blackhead-causing oil,” says New York City celebrity aesthetician Christine Chin. “Make sure you maintain a normal flow of oil from your pores by keeping your skin’s moisture level balanced.” Try a moisturizer with squalane oil, which serves as an emollient but is noncomedogenic—it’s the best of both worlds.

Biossance Squalane + Omega Repair Cream

$60.00, Sephora

Youth to the People Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream with Ashwagandha + Reishi

$58.00, Sephora

Apply a topical retinoid.

Dr. Geraghty recommends using retinol for acne, such as prescription tretinoin cream or over-the-counter Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment. Retinoids are unmatched in their ability to spur cell turnover, removing dead skin cells and lowering the chances of a clog forming. “A very thin layer applied at bedtime can help to exfoliate your skin, unclog pores, reduce oiliness, and remove and prevent small blackheads and whiteheads,” she says.

Differin Night Cream with Hyaluronic Acid

$13.00, Amazon

Use vitamin C.

Sure, ingredients like beta hydroxy acids and benzoyl peroxide work great on acne and clogged pores. But your favorite brightening ingredient, vitamin C, can actually be incredibly powerful for clearing blackheads. “A blackhead is simply oil that has come to the surface and oxidized because of contact with the open air,” says Rouleau. “This oxidation is what causes blackheads to turn black. To fight this process and keep the oil from oxidizing so quickly, use an antioxidant like vitamin C.”

She notes that it’s crucial to use a stable form of vitamin C, since unstable forms can oxidize quickly and cause even more blackheads. (Check out more of the best vitamin C serums to shop.)

Renée Rouleau Vitamin C&E Treatment

$69.00, Renée Rouleau

Practice blackhead-friendly habits

“Make sure to wash makeup off before going to bed,” says Dr. Camp, and consider using a cleansing oil for the job. “Sleeping in makeup can contribute to clogged pores and the formation of blackheads.” It’s also best to avoid heavy, pore-clogging moisturizers, and opt for oil-free products if you have acne-prone or oily skin.

Additional reporting by Danielle Sinay, Emily Rekstis, and Bella Cacciatore.

Originally Appeared on Glamour