We Rode Rocky Mountaineer’s Luxury Train Through the Rugged American West. Here’s What It’s Like Onboard.
Welcome to Checking In, a new review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best new (and revamped) luxury hotels (and in this case, trains) based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Find out below.
Rocky Mountaineer: Rockies to the Red Rocks
Describe it in three words: Scenic. Peaceful. Majestic.
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What’s the deal? After more than three decades riding through the Canadian Rockies, luxury rail company Rocky Mountaineer has expanded its service south. Two years ago, the company started operating its first U.S. route between Denver and Moab, Utah. The two-day Rockies to Red Rocks train journey, which runs in both direction from April to October, takes you from the dramatic peaks of the Rockies to the otherworldly desert expanse of southwest Utah, with an overnight stay in picturesque Glenwood Springs, Colo., in between. Over the course of two daytime legs—the trains run on freight lines, so you’ll spend your nights in hotels—you’ll come to see why the varied landscape of the American West has proven to be such an inspiration over the generations.
U.S. customers don’t get to ride on the premium bi-level Goldleaf Service coaches that run on the company’s Canadian routes—our train tunnels aren’t tall enough. They do get to choose between SilverLeaf (which starts at $1,937 per guest) and SilverLeaf Plus ($2,457) service, the latter of which includes access to a gorgeously appointed lounge (or bar) car that feels like something out of an Agatha Christie adaption.
Design chops: Each coach sports Rocky Moutaineer’s trademark blue, white, and gold colors, though the modern rail cars’ exteriors lack some of the romance of their predecessors. The clean and modern interiors make up for this, though, especially the delightfully Old West-style SilverLeaf Plus lounge cars.
The Rundown:
Did they greet you by name at check-in? Not at check-in, but once you’ve found your seat you’ll get a visit from the car’s host and, shortly after, the chef. They’ll both soon feel like friends—just the kind who always happens to have a drink or snack handy exactly when you need one.
Was a welcome drink ready and waiting when you arrived? (Bonus point if it wasn’t just fruit juice.) The train between Denver and Glenwood Springs (or vice versa, if you’re heading eastward) sets off mid-morning, so there’s coffee, tea, and water available for sipping. Once you depart the station and have settled in for the ride (or if you’re on the later-starting Glenwood-to-Moab leg) your host can bring you something stronger, should you desire.
Do you have to sleep on the train? No. Rocky Mountaineer’s trains only run during the daytime, that way you can fully take in the beauty of your natural surroundings. You’ll stop in Glenwood Springs the first night, whichever direction you’re going, where lodgings will be provided for you at one of the spa town’s finest (and western-themed) hotels. Keep your eyes peeled if you end up with a room in the Hotel Colorado—you just might see a ghost.
Is the bathroom situation also 5-star? Here’s the quickest way to tell that Rocky Mountaineer is serious about luxury. After you’ve found your seat and put in your drink order, take a little saunter to the back of the coach where the bathrooms are. They’re spacious, sparkling, and the exact opposite of what Amtrak riders are used to.
Is the highest tier worth it? Without a doubt. Access to the bar car that’s exclusively available to SilverLeaf Plus riders is worth it. You don’t have to worry about missing a photo op, either, since the coach has panoramic windows on both sides which you can gaze out of while tucked into your cushy seat. There’s also a self-playing piano programmed with a number of saloon standards to add to the ambiance.
Does the train handle your luggage? You won’t have to worry about crowded overhead bins while riding with Rocky Mountaineer. You’ll be given tags to attach to your checked bags upon arrival and they’ll be waiting for you in your hotel room once you reach your destination.
Is it good for the ‘Gram? Exceedingly so. Along the 274-mile journey, you’ll get to see just about everything that the Western landscape has to offer—from the Rockies’ staggering peaks to the verdant canyons that run alongside the Colorado River to the desert’s towering (and otherworldly) red rocks. The train travels at an average speed of 30 mph—and slows down for those special moments—so you’ll have plenty of time to get the perfect shot from either your seat or the open-air vestibule windows between coaches. With so many memorable sights to choose from, it’s hard to pick a favorite, but two you won’t want to miss are the expanse of the Continental Divide and the beauty of the Ruby Canyon’s sandstone cliffs.
Was the staff psychic? Pretty close to it. My coach’s host, Michael, was omnipresent. His running commentary was informative and funny, helping fill in the story of the landscape and of its stranger features—like the many rafters who kept mooning the train. He was also sure to point out all the wildlife visible from the train, including bald eagles and deer.
Is there caviar on the menu? No, but you won’t mind. Each meal prepared by my coach’s chef, Dillon, was regionally inspired and made using locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. There were several highlights, but I was especially taken with the smoked salmon salad and braised short rib dishes. The selection of local wines and beers didn’t hurt either.
Are excursions included? Not on the Classic package, which includes two days on the train and three nights in hotels (in Denver, Glenwood Spring, and Moab) selected by Rocky Mountaineer. Luckily, if you want to get a little more out of the adventure, there are several add-ons you can opt for if you’re taking the eastward journey. These include tours of the many nearby national parks (you won’t want to miss Arches) or, if you’re in the mood for something that will get your adrenaline pumping, a half-day of rafting or a 4×4 tour in an old-school Hummer.
Would you buy the train if you could? Being able to ride along this route whenever you want would be a delight.
Score: 8
What Our Score Means:
1-3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you plan to ride.
4-6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch.
7-8: Very good. We’d take the journey again and recommend it without qualms.
9-10: Forget booking just one trip. When can we ride again?
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