Shopping Time: 5 Patek Philippe Calendar Watches You Can Buy Right Now
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday we share five standout pieces with you.
The sports watch market is still soft, but dress watches continue to be pretty steady. We’ve look at great deals on watches like the Rolex GMT Master, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and (pre-TAG) Heuer chronographs. Of the models we’ve curated here this summer, only the impossible-to-get steel Rolex Daytona and the small, dressy Cartier Tank appear to be holding value.
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And then there’s Patek Philippe Calendar watch, as worn by the likes of Jay Z, Andy Warhol and John Lennon. These are truly complicated marvels in all their variety, not just dress watches but masterworks of high horology. Patek Philippe represents many different things to many different people, but if there’s one area of the brand’s history that’s had an undeniable impact on collectors and enthusiasts alike, it is indeed their calendar equipped references. Whether it’s an annual calendar, which tracks the weekday, date and month, or a perpetual calendar, which adds the year and even compensates for leap years, Patek Philippe has long been the widely-acknowledge master of this complicated domain.
Historically speaking, it was the Patek Philippe’s reference 97975 that put a perpetual calendar into a wrist watch for the first time. This was in 1925, just as wrist watches were being embraced and pocket watches were starting to go out of vogue. And the Patek Philippe refernce 1518 of 1941 was the first perpetual calendar to also include a chronograph function, making this reference repeatedly among the most expensive watches ever auctioned, especially when that Patek is pink-on-pink, meaning pink gold with a salmon dial.
As for prices, Patek Philippe calendar watches don’t sway with trends, fads, seasons or for anything, really. Prices remain steady, dipping slightly here and there with the overall market, but never erratically. And still, there is a variety in price, based on condition, case metals used, rarity, and so on.
Thankfully, you don’t have to look that high up the price scale to get a great Patek Calendar watch. This week, we’re providing just a small taste of the brand’s rich history with this complication, with five of our favorite references that mark important phases for the brand’s long evolution of this wonderful complication.
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Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3940P | $74,000
There are more complicated calendar watches from Patek Philippe, but few are elegant and versatile as the reference 3940. Often held as a high water mark for perpetual calendar dial design, the 3940 is simple and classic in its presentation, with no superfluous details in sight. As a result, it’s easy to understand and use. What we love about this reference is the simplicity of the case, which is allowed by the slender micro-rotor caliber 240Q within. This is a complicated watch that presents simply at 36mm in diameter, and a mere 9mm in total thickness. It is a wonder of mechanical knowhow. The 3940 was produced from 1985 to 2007, across three distinct series, and it is held in high regard by collectors and enthusiasts to this day, even in the face of the 5140 that replaced it. The 3940 represents everything that is special about Patek Philippe.
This example being offered by Wind Vintage is a ref. 3940P, meaning it uses a platinum case. It is a third series that dates to 2002 with a case and dial that show only the lightest signs of age. The 24-hour sub-dial shows a subtly darker bottom half in an even and pleasing manner, which has become a hallmark of the reference. This example comes with a closed caseback, and an extract from the archives detailing its production details. This is an incredible example of Patek’s most charming reference, and it’s in a condition that allows for an approachable level of wear.
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Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5040J | $39,500
The Patek Philippe reference 5040 was introduced in the early ‘90s, and presents an unconventional tonneau case shape for the first time in a perpetual calendar. Early dials were graced with Breguet style numerals and hands, while later production variations moved to a san-serif modernized typeface for the hour markers and leaf style hands. The unique case shape would remain unchanged, as would the use of the exceptional caliber 240Q. The case itself measures 35 mm across, and 42.5 mm in length, while the thin movement keeps the case around 9 mm thick. Overall a beautiful experience on the wrist with a highly unique shape that breaks from the norm.
This example being offered by The Keystone is a later production example and uses a case rendered in 18k yellow gold (denoted by the J at the end of the reference, which stands for jaune in French, meaning yellow). The silver dial and gold applied numerals look to be in nearly new condition, while the case shows very light signs of wear. This is offered as a full kit, provided with its original box and papers. Thanks to its unconventional design, the 5040 represents a great value in the world of complicated Patek Philippe, and this example is no exception.
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Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5004P | €430,000 (around $478,000)
The Patek Philippe reference 5004 represents a noticeable departure from the other references here, placing the perpetual calendar within the context of a more complicated lineage. The 5004 was released in 1994, and pairs a perpetual calendar complication with a split seconds chronograph. This is a brand known for their calendar + timing complication pairings, and the 5004 takes that step further than the classic 3970 perpetual calendar chronograph being produced in the same era. A button emerging from the crown to activate the rattrapante clearly differentiates this reference as something special.
The ref. 5004 was the last to make use of a Lemania based caliber, the CH 27-70 Q. The 5004 was succeeded by the ref. 5204 in 2012, which used an in-house caliber, and also increased the size from 36 mm as seen here, to 40 mm.
This Patek Philippe ref. 5004P is being offered by Amsterdam Vintage Watches, and as the P signifies, features a titanium case. This is paired with a black dial with polished applied Arabic numeral hour indexes. This is among the final examples of the reference to be produced, making its significance all the more substantial. The watch shows minimal signs of wear, and is presented as a full kit. This is a remarkable example of what Patek is capable of, and represents the final efforts of the neo-vintage era.
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Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5056P | $32,500
We’ve just scratched the surface of what Patek Philippe is capable of when it comes to the packaging of a calendar watch, and it must be noted that the famed brand is also responsible for the creation of the annual calendar complication. Patek Philippe released the reference 5035 in 1996, which was the first to feature the caliber 315 S QA, which offered a slightly simplified take on the perpetual calendar, as it did not account for leap years. Two years later, Patek would release this reference 5036, which added power reserve and moonphase indications to the dial. The design of this was unique, as it utilized Roman numerals with leaf hands, and utilized two oversized sub-dials on either side of the hand stack to display the day and the month.
This reference 5056P is in the lineage of the 5036, with the same set of complications presented in a very similar manner. This example being offered by Wind Vintage features an untouched platinum case and anthracite dial with sunray finish. It’s a perfect encapsulation of the vintage to modern transition, with much of the design language still finding its footing. Today, we have the 5250 that shows a full maturation of the thought process. Nonetheless, this 5056P represents an important step in the development not only of the brand’s movement technology, but of their design language as well.
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Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3945/1G | $80,000
A quick glance at this reference and you might mistake it for a 3940, but this is a very unique interpretation of that formula. This is the reference 3945, and it represents something of an art-deco style take on Patek’s most beloved perpetual calendar. What sets this reference apart is the lack of lugs, and the disco-volante style case that integrates the bracelet directly. These were made in white and yellow gold, and the bracelet is in and of itself a work of art. The tightly woven links drape like silk around the wrist, and the stepped case, which still measures 36 mm in diameter, is unbroken in its design. It’s a beautiful presentation that shows the versatility of the 3940 design.
This 3945, available from Analog Shift, features a case and bracelet made of white gold and is beautifully preserved. The 3945 makes use of the same micro-rotor caliber 240Q movement, meaning it shares the same impeccable dimensions. This example comes with its pusher tool for adjusting the calendar, as well as both the exhibition and solid white gold caseback. Only the crown shows small signs of age, but overall this is a beautiful example of one of Patek’s most audacious references.
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Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
