This Star Winemaker’s New Limited-Edition Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Are Stellar
Winemaker Greg Brewer has devoted his winemaking career to elevating Santa Barbara County as a region since he founded Brewer-Clifton in 1996, and he has a special affinity for the Sta. Rita Hills appellation, which he helped to map, define, and establish in 1997. Brewer-Clifton is still going strong, and Brewer also established Diatom in 2005, which focuses on ocean-influenced Chardonnay, and then brought us Ex Post Facto in 2016, which showcases the world-class style Syrah that Sta. Rita Hills is known for. Never one to rest on his laurels, Brewer’s latest project is Perilune, a limited-edition Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that explores and rediscovers a new expression of these grapes through the use of concrete eggs, a first for him.
Taking its name from the point in orbit that a satellite or spaceship is closest to the moon, Perilune Vineyard “has a lunar-like topography, marked by wind-swept and barren slopes coupled with dramatically steep sandy cliffs,” Brewer tells Robb Report. “We chose the name because the stark, empty, and contemplative landscape of the Sta. Rita Hills reminded us of the moon.” You may have seen the name before; the vineyard was planted in 2017, and in addition to using its fruit for both Brewer-Clifton and Ex Post Facto bottlings, it’s also the source of wine from the likes of single vineyard Pinot Noir specialist Siduri and local Santa Barbara producers Babcock and Clementine Carter.
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The Sta. Rita Hills AVA’s cold, breezy, and foggy conditions and extended growing season are ideal for cultivating Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Perilune stands at the heart of the appellation, nestled in a secluded canyon with myriad soil types and aspects. “It features a gorgeous array of steep hillsides and valley floor sections that are a winemaker’s dream when it comes to winemaking and blending,” Brewer says. The rugged terrain offers soils ranging from beach sand to Botella clay, and a variety of clones are planted in 42 distinct blocks.
The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir under the Perilune label are completely different than any wines Brewer has made before. “We set out to explore a different side of the vineyard, challenging ourselves to express the voice of this place in a manner distinct from Brewer-Clifton,” he says. “We also deliberately chose a singular concrete egg because it is a neutral vessel that offers a different, yet clean, expression of the grape and its terroir.”
Brewer recalls 2022 as having been very long, cool, and steady, offering “beautiful freshness and energy” to the wines from that vintage. Sourced from a single block planted with clone 17, the Chardonnay was harvested early to maintain freshness, and Brewer did not allow it to undergo malolactic fermentation so that it would “capture a higher octave” and express a true “voice of place.” Harvested from the highest portion of the vineyard—at 1,000 feet above sea level—the clone 114 Pinot Noir spent a short time in a small fermenter and was pressed directly into the concrete egg. Unlike non-porous stainless steel, which doesn’t provide exposure to oxygen, concrete enables slow and steady oxygenation. It provides significantly less contact with the atmosphere and none of the flavor or textural influences that are imparted by oak.
Perilune 2022 Chardonnay offers a bouquet of Gala apple, lemon zest, and cardamom with a hint of salinity. It is full on the palate and has vivid acidity and a strong vein of minerality supporting flavors of honeydew melon and citrus zest that are shot through with soft touches of dried thyme, flint, and a hint of earthiness. Perilune 2022 Pinot Noir has a nose of pomegranate, raspberry, and orange peel. It is bright on opening, with flavors of cranberry and red plum that are backed by notes of river rock and hillside herbs that linger into the vivid finish. Both are gorgeous representations of their terroir and the expert winemaker’s hand. Only 900 bottles of each were produced, and while Brewer-Clifton club members have first crack at it, small amounts of these stunning wines are available at the Los Olivos tasting room and online.
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