How to Straighten Hair With No Heat Damage, According to Professional Hair Stylists
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I’ll admit: Before I learned how to straighten hair, I was frying my strands into oblivion. As a preteen I had one of those wet-to-straight flatirons (remember those?) that emitted a cloud of steam and made a sizzling sound when you clamped down on strands. At some point I came to my senses and realized that frying my hair wasn’t the best move, especially for my butt-length strands. I went on a long hiatus from the straightening game—until recently.
Straight strands are back in style, and who am I to ignore the latest hair trends? Lucky for me, flatiron technology has gotten some major upgrades over the past 15 years. I am technically still using a wet-to-dry tool—the Dyson Airstrait Straightener. But unlike my ancient version from middle school, which used scorching plates to dry hair, Dyson’s uses high-speed air to dry and straighten simultaneously for a much healthier blow-dry and straighten.
To help refresh my memory on how to straighten hair, I went straight (pun intended) to the pros. Celebrity stylist Mara Roszak, who’s the founder of hair care brand Rōz, and Garnier hairstylist Millie Morales spilled all of their hair-straightening tips and tricks. Read on for their advice and their five expert-approved steps for hair straightening.
Step 1: Start with clean hair.
Roszak advises that you start by washing with a “hydrating and thoroughly cleansing shampoo and conditioner” because it “will ensure your style lasts longer, removing the buildup during the cleanse, then the hydrating ingredients help with the smoothing and sealing of the cuticle.”
I wash my hair with 14th Night Nourishing Shampoo and Nourishing Conditioner followed by the Nourishing Hair Mask for good measure. Roszak’s pro tips: “Comb through the conditioner in the shower and use a hair towel that will help to defrizz and remove a ton of excess moisture.”
Roszak says second-day hair is ideal, since it ensures your strands are completely dry. But make sure there’s no oil at the roots. “Flatironing can highlight that and/or create a greasy look,” she says. “In this case, be mindful of starting the flatiron away from the root about one inch down from the part and hairline.” And of course, you can always enlist the help of a refreshing dry shampoo if needed.
14th Night The Nourishing Shampoo
$48.00, Revolve
14th Night The Nourishing Conditioner
$48.00, Revolve
14th Night Nourishing Hair Mask
$64.00, Bergdorf Goodman
Step 2: Make sure your hair is fully dry.
“Make sure your hair is completely dry and untangled, and do a good blow-dry first,” recommends Morales. To detangle, I use the K18 Leave-In Hair Mask (I swear its damage-reversing formula is why my hair is as healthy as it is.) Then, as a heat protectant, Roszak recommends her Rōz Santa Lucia Styling Oil, which I’m a big fan of as well. Not only does it look gorgeous sitting on my bathroom counter, but it also makes for the smoothest strands, which is especially important when straightening.
“I prefer to use my flatiron as a touch-up and do most of my smoothing work with my blow-dryer and round brush,” says Roszak, which is especially smart for someone who’s working with fine, damaged hair and doesn’t want to apply too much direct heat.
K18 Leave-In Hair Mask
$75.00, Amazon
Rōz Hair Santa Lucia Styling Oil
$45.00, Revolve
Step 3: Part hair into sections.
“Section your hair into small, manageable sections,” says Morales. I section layer by layer starting at the bottom, and twisting the rest of my hair up into an Emi Jay Big Effing Claw Clip. I straighten the top of my head last, which allows me to be sure that it looks its best—especially since that’s the hair that will be seen most.
Morales agrees with my method. “I recommend parting your hair into small sections and using clips to keep them in place. Start from the bottom layer and work your way up.” Her reasoning: “This allows you to concentrate on smaller areas at a time, ensuring each section is evenly straightened.”
You could work your way from front to back or however is easiest for you. For instance, Roszak does the opposite. “I always straighten the front first, then use flat clips to help set a look,” she says.
It does help to have some flat clips on hand like Kitsch Creaseless Hair Clips. They’re especially helpful if you need to keep the hair out of your face while doing your makeup. By pinning the front pieces away from your face and flat to your head, it’ll prevent creasing.
Emi Jay Big Effing Clip in Toasted
$34.00, Emi Jay
Kitsch Creaseless Hair Clips
$10.00, Ulta
Step 4: Start straightening.
Chi Original Lava 1" Ceramic Hairstyling Flat Iron
$108.00, Amazon
T3 SinglePass StyleMax Flat Iron
$150.00, Nordstrom
“Glide the straightener through each section slowly, starting from the roots and working your way down,” says Morales. “Finish each section before moving to the next.”
Another tip to keep you from frying your hair? “Try two passes max with the iron, but with the goal for one,” says Roszak. Running the iron over your hair too many times will buy you a one-way ticket to Damageville. “Offer a very slight curve toward the endsl this will ensure the ends present smoother and never frayed looking.”
“If you find yourself needing more [passes], you may need to lower the temperature or use smaller sections,” explains Morales. “Doing too many passes can cause damage, so use the right heat setting for your hair type, and always work in small sections for the most efficient straightening.”
I also find that it’s helpful to run a brush through your hair before and after each pass with the straightener for the sleekest finish.
Step 5: Finish with serum.
“Once you’re done straightening, finish with a lightweight serum like Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Anti-Frizz Serum to add shine and keep moisture,” says Morales. This serum forms a seal on each strand to prevent humidity from penetrating, which ultimately keeps hair from frizzing.
Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Anti-Frizz Serum
$7.00, Walmart
Lisa DeSantis is a freelance lifestyle writer, editor, and brand consultant whose work has appeared in Cosmopolitan, Elle, Well and Good, Byrdie, and others. Her favorite topics to write about are beauty, health, and wellness. Follow her on Instagram @lisa_desantis_.
Originally Appeared on Glamour
