Can’t Miss Shopping, Dining, Exhibitions and More in Paris This Fall
A taste of New York in Paris, a bird’s-eye view from Montmartre, a tour of Japan without leaving the confines of France and the centenary of Surrealism are some of the highlights of la rentrée in the City of Light.
Where to Stay
A home away from home, albeit one perched in the heights of Montmartre, is what Maison La Bohème intends to be with nine apartments ranging from 270 to 1,300 square feet just steps away from the Sacré-Cœur. For this residential hotel that shares an address with the famous eponymous restaurant where Pablo Picasso used to have coffee, architects Pauline Plegat and Matthieu Joubin created a colorful and chic bohemian fantasy of an English cottage meets French artist’s atelier. — Lily Templeton
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Maison La Bohème, 2 Place du Tertre, 75018
Tel.: +33 1 46 06 51 69
Where to Dine
With this 36-seat restaurant plainly named after its address, whiz kid chef Pierre Touitou (of Vivant Deux and Déviant fame, but also the son of A.P.C. Jean Touitou) takes a no-fuss, no-borders approach to contemporary French cuisine. KFC-style monkfish cheeks, Chinese turnip cakes served as fries with a peppercorn dip or a pollack with a scrumptious aioli are some of the options of his seasonal menu.
Since the Lafayette Anticipations foundation is about experimentation in art, it is fitting that its new permanent restaurant, Pluto, do the same in the culinary field, under the control of childhood friends Pierre-Louis Hirel, Adrien Ducousso and head chef Thomas Coupeau. The latter is a self-avowed street food fan and imagined a menu of dishes that will change weekly, with options like a sunny Shakshuka, “coquillette” risotto and Belgian chocolate mousse.
The younger sibling of French brasserie Alfred next door, Alfi’s is a cocktail bar meets osteria. Expect Italian fare revisited by Argentine chef Jonathan Morales, who has revisited classics such as with globe-trotting touches from his homeland’s charcoal cooking and nods to the Basque region, New York or so Parisian fare. — L.T.
19 Saint Roch, 19 Rue Saint Roch, 75001
Tuesday to Friday, noon to 2 p.m. and 7 to 11 p.m.
Tel.: +33 1 40 15 00 89
Pluto, 9 Rue du Plâtre, 75004
Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Tel.: +33 1 42 82 89 98
Alfi’s, 26 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001
Tuesday to Saturday, noon to 3 p.m. then 7:30 p.m. to midnight
Tel.: +33 1 42 92 01 41
Where to Grab a Bite
After joining the cultural heritage list of UNESCO, the French baguette is the star at Baguett. Here, master baker Eric Kayser and team prove that this sourdough staple is anything but basic, offering everything from pistachio-flecked versions and three footlong sandwiches to ice cream made from day-old bread and pastries, for a no-waste twist. — L.T.
Baguett, 33 Rue Coquillère, 75001
Monday to Saturday 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
What Exhibitions to See
The Centre Pompidou is diving deep into Surrealism, the artistic movement born in 1924 with André Breton’s publication of “Manifesto.” Designed like a maze, the exhibition features works by Salvador Dalí, René Magritte, Giorgio de Chirico, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Leonora Carrington, Ithell Colquhoun and Dora Maar.
The Musée Jacquemart-André reopened its doors earlier this month after more than a year of renovations, which includes restorations of the Tiepolo staircase in the former private mansion. To celebrate, it’s staging an exhibition of about 40 masterpieces from the Galleria Borghese in Rome, which lent oeuvres by the likes of Botticelli, Raphael and Titian.
Eugène Delacroix and clothing are in the scopes at his eponymous museum. Its current exhibition analyzes how the artist’s painterly subjects — real or imaginary — dressed.
In a first, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs is displaying a selection of 30 couture and ready-to-wear fashion pieces, plus 100 jewelry and costume jewelry pieces, in its permanent gallery spaces. Brands and designers represented include Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Dior and Lanvin. — Jennifer Weil
“Surrealism,” through Jan. 13
Centre Pompidou, Place Georges-Pompidou, 75004
Tel.: +33 1 44 78 12 33
“Masterpieces From the Borghese Gallery,” through Jan. 5
Musée Jacquemart-André, 158 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008
Tel.: +33 1 45 62 11 59
“States of (Un)dress: Delacroix and Clothing,” through Feb. 3
Musée National Eugène-Delacroix, 6 Rue de Furstemberg, 75006
Tel.: +33 144 41 86 50
“Fashion, Design, Jewelry Exhibit,” through Nov. 10
The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 Rue de Rivoli, 75001
Tel.: +33 1 44 55 57 50
Where to Shop
Take a tour across Japan without leaving the Marais at HIS Paris. With the brand’s roots as a travel agency, the concept store is based on exploration and scouts treasures from every corner of the country, from food and drink to crafts such as calligraphy. With interiors from designer Goliath Dyèvre, who cut his teeth at Hermès, expect a contemporary gallery-style space where each object is upheld as art.
Inclusive label Almé has opened its first outpost in Paris as an appointment-only, personal shopping salon. The six-year-old, direct-to-consumer brand founded by Emmanuelle Szerer in Avignon offers contemporary classics in a size range from 36 to 54. Appointments are free for a solo shopping trip, or can be arranged for friend groups so clients can explore the brand in a relaxed retail environment. — Rhonda Richford
After London, Berlin-based digital native accessories brand Aeyde has landed in Paris at Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche for a two-month pop-up. The brand, which turns 10 next year and is known for its sweet-spot prices, is showcasing its latest pin-heel boots, pumps and mary janes in an installation by architectural design studio Heim+Viladrich. — L.T.
HIS, 2 rue du Renard, 75004
Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
Salon Almé, 8 rue de la Boétie, 75008
By appointment only, Wednesday to Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
Aeyde, Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche – Second floor, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007
Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7:45 pm, Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7:45 p.m.
Where to Relax
Take time for you to hit the spa. The Spa Alaena Paris, which opened in late May, spans more than 3,230 square feet over two levels. On the ground floor is the skin care brand Alaena Cosmétique’s first boutique, with an herbal tea room plus space for a micronutrition consultation. Down a flight of steps find seven treatment rooms, including two duos, a hammam and yoga studio. Treatments include hourlong personalized facials or massages at 140 euros.
Evidens de Beauté has just inaugurated a new treatment room designed with architect Emmanuelle Simon at the Hôtel de Crillon. The beauty brand, rooted in Japanese and French cultures, created the space in oak, polished concrete, Raku and rice paper. A one-hour Essential Treatment goes for 250 euros, while the two-hour Extreme Regeneration option is 825 euros.
Payot this summer opened its first five owned boutiques, each of which boasts treatment rooms, in the French capital’s 6th, 7th, 8th, 11th and 17th districts. The locations offer the brand’s three signature treatment protocols, including one for glowing skin. That last for 75 minutes and costs 120 euros. — J.W.
Spa Aleana Paris, 28 Rue Meslay, 75003
Tel.: +33 6 65 11 54 37
Evidens de Beauté at the Hôtel de Crillon, 10 Place de la Concorde, 75008
Tel.: +33 1 44 71 15 45
Payot, 69 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008
Tel.: +33 1 84 74 08 25
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