Thinking of getting a protective style? Here’s EYNTK
If you have Afro-textured hair, you’ve probably been wearing protective styles since the first coils appeared on your head, whether you’ve been aware of it or not. Those bobble-trimmed pigtails you rocked at nursery? The school picture day cornrows? The box braids you wore to prom? Yep, they’re all protective styles.
But if it’s been a while since you’ve worn one and you’re fretting about everything– from what counts as a protective style to whether your edges are safe, you’re in the right place. We spoke to three Afro hair experts to give us the tea on all things protective styling.
What is a protective style?
A protective style minimises hair manipulation and exposure to environmental elements, preventing breakage and promoting healthy hair growth.
“Braids, twists, buns, wigs and locs are examples of protective styles, which tuck away the hair and protect fragile ends,” says Paula Peralta, celebrity hairstylist and Artistic Director for Paul Mitchell. Fleur Easts’s hairstylist and Head Stylist at Kurl Kitchen, Umunique Jamison, agrees, describing protective styles as “a spa day for your hair” that reduces shedding and helps to retain moisture. But when is a protective style actually necessary?
When and why do you need a protective style?
Protective styles do exactly what they say on the tin–protect the hair– so they’re ideal if you’re keen to retain length, shield your hair from the elements or prevent over-manipulation. If you love a good blowout or slick puff, you might want to try a protective style when you need a break from daily restyling, tugging, and slicking, says Jamison.
The busy bees among us might benefit from these styles the most, as they’re an easy way to limit the amount of time we spend getting ready on the daily, says celebrity hairstylist Dionne Smith, the magic hands behind some of Golda Roscheveul’s, Leigh-Anne Pinnock’s and Corrina Brown’s most show-stopping hair looks. “They’re also a great way to transition from chemically treated to natural hair; wear a style that doesn’t sweat out on holiday or at the gym; or grow your hair with minimal maintenance,” says Smith.
What protective style is best?
That’s completely dependent on personal preference and the amount of maintenance you have time for. According to our experts, braids, cornrows, twists and Senegalese twists are all super popular low-maintenance options, but Smith reminds us how important it is to treat hair regularly and take breaks between restlyes. “Wigs and weaves are also great protective styles”, says Jamison. “Even a sleek up-do can serve as a protective style for a few days, just ensure you protect your scalp with something like Kurl Kitchen Hair Oil to lock in moisture. Ultimately, the best style is one that suits your hair, your style, and your needs.”
What protective style lasts the longest?
“Braids and twists can be worn for 4-12 weeks as long as the wearer takes steps to protect their hair while sleeping, ensures scalp health by applying serums and is mindful during wash days,” says Peralta. If you want super low maintenance, locs can usually be worn indefinitely, making them one of the longest-lasting. “They begin as twists and as the twists mature they begin to loc around themselves,” she explains.
There’s a unanimous agreement amongst hair stylists and experts that braids and twists are your BFFs when it comes to choosing a long-lasting style, but Dionne Smith pins wigs as a solid option if they’re properly cared for.
Do protective styles help hair grow faster?
The million dollar question and we’re sorry to disappoint you, but our experts are branding this commonly thought perk of protective styles as a myth. The reason we feel like our hair grows faster is because we’re not seeing it every day, explains Smith.”Your hair will grow regardless, it's just great to have a good hair care routine that will help to retain healthy hair in your chosen protective style.”
We should think of protective styling less as a “magic solution” and more of a “cheerleader for healthy hair”, adds Jamison. “Incorporating good wash days, co-washes, oils, deep conditioning treatments, and products can promote healthy hair, contributing to growth.”
The verdict? Maintaining healthy hair in a protective style is your best shot at supporting hair growth.
Are protective styles bad for edges?
No matter how cute a style is, nobody wants to lose their edges for a temporary slay. Styles that are too tight and result in constant pulling put your edges at risk of thinning, so Jamison suggests opting for gentle styles or taking breaks between braids or cornrows to avoid breakage around the sensitive hairline. If wigs are your go-to protective style, Smith recommends taking it off before bed or when you’re relaxing at home to prevent excessive rubbing.
Protective styles should be viewed as “low maintenance but not NO maintenance” warns Peralta “ In addition to being mindful of tension during the install, caring for your scalp is key - gently applying serums and products designed to maintain hair and scalp health.” Another culprit of edge damage is rushing the takedown. “How you take the protective style down is just as important as the install,” says Peralta. “Be gentle to prevent breakage and once the protective style is out, carefully detangle hair to remove any shedding.”
How long should you keep protective styles in?
According to our experts, the below is a good rule of thumb for the most popular protective styles:
Locs: Can be left in indefinitely with proper maintenance
Braids & twists: 4-12 weeks (no longer than 3 months before a full refresh)
Cornrows: 2-8 weeks
Bantu knots: 1-2 weeks
How to wash hair in protective styling
To strike the right balance between preserving your style and keeping your hair and scalp clean, our stylists recommend washing your hair every other week.Healthy hair always starts with a healthy scalp, so scalp cleansing is essential when it comes to washing your hair when it’s in a protective style. “I always recommend a cleansing rinse like the Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Kombucha Rinse, “ says Peralta. “The precision tip allows you to apply the product without causing frizz.”
When applying shampoo and conditioner, gentle massage and rinsing well are key to cleansing your hair without disturbing or dislodging your style. After cleansing and conditioning, consider using a scalp serum to balance moisture on the scalp and a leave-in conditioner to maintain moisture in the hair.
Tip – “In a not yet matured loc, it’s important to stay away from oils and heavily hydrating products that may cause unraveling. Once matured, hydration is a priority in maintaining the health of the loc.” - Paula Peralta
How to moisturise hair in protective styling
The secret? All of our experts stress the importance of starting with a well-moisturised canvas before the protective style is installed but you still need to moisturise your hair while it’s styled, too. This is where a trusty DIY hair mist comes in handy. Jamison advises creating a hair mist by mixing leave-in conditioner and water in a spray bottle and spritzing it directly onto your style. On-the-go hydration has never been easier.
How to make protective styles last longer
Wrapping your hair in a silk or satin scarf or wearing a bonnet to bed will help to maintain your style by preventing friction and loss of moisture but Dionne Smith swears by the additional hack of refreshing the perimeter of braids, twists and locs when they start to lose that snatched look. “This gives the impression that the style is freshly done which can give you a few extra weeks before a full refresh”.
Frequent manipulation and overwashing is not recommended if you want to keep your protective style looking fresh but Peralta does suggest using a lightweight leave-in conditioner once a week to keep a style like braids moisturised if you have particularly thirsty hair.
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