Three Outerwear Moods From the Fall 2025 Milan Presentations: Pop, Furry, Country-chic
MILAN – As retail buyers pointed out, outerwear was among the strongest categories this fall season at Milan Fashion Week, with furry and shearling options stealing the spotlight on the runways.
At presentations, category specialist were seen reinventing their heritage designs into novelty options, each conjuring a distinctive vibe, from pop-tinged to furry and country-chic.
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A hyperpop approach informed Khrisjoy’s fall collection, designed by the creative studio after the departure last year of creative director Marzia Bellotti. While homing in on its signature puffer outerwear, the collection was nothing like one could expect.
Puffers were given a couture-like, mood-boosting treatment, with a round-shaped jacket ruched on the front and crafted from nylon taffeta paired with a puffy skirt, or a glossy red padded overshirt with waist drawstrings to style a peplum coming with a matching balloon skirt. Modularity indeed informed many of the pieces, including sweeping parkas with zippers running down the arm line to reveal colorful mid-layers underneath. A padded floor-length overcoat featured ruffles at the hem and was decked in multicolor, brushstroke-like swirls by British illustrator Julie Verhoeven, seemingly inspired by bodypainting, which also informed a range of base layers.
The signature Khrisjoy Iconic Milano jacket was reinvented in a cropped version. Press notes said, “poptastic.” It was, indeed.
A urban flair with whiffs of countryside-chic permeated the Herno fall collection, with a plethora of outerwear options, from the down jackets with unusual quilting such as the chevron pattern on the long double-breasted coat with a matching padded scarf to the mixed media cap with a bouclé fringe-hemmed front and glossy nylon back.
A military green field jacket with utilitarian pockets was layered over drawstring-belted overshirts, while topcoats nodding to parka styles were crafted from wool and cashmere blends and came with shearling trimmed hoodies.
There was no shortage of creativity at Raxxy, the Chinese luxury down jacket brand founded by William Shen that has quickly garnered attention with its lightweight avant-garde designs inspired by traditional Chinese craftsmanship, like bamboo weaving and paper-cutting.
After its recent collaboration with Cult Gaia, the brand unveiled its fall 2025 range upon appointment during Milan Fashion Week, presenting bold new takes on the category.
Building on its knack for 3D constructions, geometric patterns and bold color schemes, the brand introduced argyle motifs interlaced with ribbons and mosaic-like schemes that elevated workwear-inspired puffers, ample capes and the cocooning proportions of statement bomber down jackets.
The color palette emphasized the brand’s patented woven technique via combinations of pastel hues as well as popping yellow and green accents flanking classic shades like black, white and chocolate.
Alice Gentilucci puts the fun into her Alabama Muse faux furs. Her luscious, colorful, lightweight furs all have straps on the inside, so when the weather warms they can be carried like backpacks. They’re made from recycled plastic, but look authentic as they’re made in laboratories that work with real fur.
For fall, she made long and short coats in a hot shade of Barbie pink (with a matching bucket hat); brown and white tie-dye, and leopard print. Shaggy fur vests in black or white gave the collection a rock ‘n’ roll edge. There were coats for men, too — long bearish styles and knee-length, toggle-front ones.
She staged the presentation in a hair salon, with models swivelling around in their chairs gossiping and having a grand old time with ’90s music, including Mazzy Star’s hit “Fade Into You,” playing in the background. The idea for the show was based on a 1994 Vogue Italia shoot styled by Gentilucci and shot by Ellen Von Unwerth.
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