Todd Snyder Goes Schoolboy Chic for Fall 2025 Collection

Jean E. Palmieri
·3 min read

Todd Snyder has gotten his mojo back when it comes to fashion shows.

Since returning to the runway a year ago as a guest designer at Pitti Uomo in Florence, the New York-based designer realized how much he missed the experience and the opportunity to showcase the craftsmanship and innovative fabrics he works so hard to achieve.

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“Last year was my first show in a while and it really invigorated me,” he said.

And it shows.

For this season’s show at the Academy Mansion on the Upper East Side, Snyder reimagined the space as “an old French boarding school that we turned into a rave,” he said during a preview. The inspiration for the collection started with a neighborhood in France: Saint-Germain in the 1980s, and the music, nightlife, artists — and uniforms — that defined the area. As he wrote in his show notes: “Undergrads loitering outside class in shorts and neckties, a writer having coffee at Café de Flore, keeping warm in a great coat he thrifted at Les Puce de Saint-Ouen, businessmen in three-piece suits ducking into Le Voltaire for dinner.”

All of these archetypes would feel comfortable donning the pieces in Snyder’s fall collection, which offered traditional silhouettes — heavy on tailored clothing. Silhouettes were also updated and were oversized without being balloon-like, giving the tailored pieces a modern twist.

“It gets me back into tailoring, which I love, and allows me to create the perfect armhole or shoulder,” he said. “We’ve been selling a lot more suits and it’s been our number-one category in the past 12 months.”

Snyder also continued to move beyond the subdued traditional menswear palette by infusing the collection with rich fabrics such as velvets, silk brocades and cashmere in an array of colors such as military green, aubergine and obsidian blue.

“In the spring, we experimented with color,” Snyder said, “and it gave me the confidence to express myself in new and different ways.”

That included some standout pieces such as a great coat in olive with military details. But instead of being scratchy and stiff, the fabrics on this and the rest of the collection were reinvented to be soft and comfortable. “My favorite thing is to take traditional fabrics and reinterpret them,” he said. Think a Harris tweed made from wool, double-breasted suits in wool crepe and mohair “Granddad” sweaters in cashmere inspired by British and French pieces from the 1950s and ‘60s.

Double-breasteds were a big part of the collection, showing up in everything from silk linen suits to tuxedos. Snyder said this collection includes the most formalwear he has ever shown, and he stepped out with pieces such as a white velvet tuxedo jacket with a shawl collar and an eggplant-colored dinner jacket.

Among the standout pieces was a cashmere double-face coat in a mint green that weighed 1,000 grams per square meter, he said. “Outerwear has always been the ultimate expression for me,” he said. Creating strong pieces is a lot like studying architecture, and “it separates the men from the boys,” he believes.

The collection overall presented an elevated take on the season. And while Snyder said he created some less expensive pieces as well, it was the higher-priced items that stood out. “We have an amazing business and this pinnacle product sets the stage for everything else,” he said.

While the collection was the star of the show, to set the tone, Snyder turned to Jivan Calderone, son of music producer and DJ Victor Calderone and his wife, interior designer Athena Calderone. “Music is a very important instrument to set the tone,” Snyder said.

There were also some famous faces both walking the runway — Holden Fraser, son of actor Brandon Fraser(sitting front row); Jackson and Atticus Wakefield, sons of Camilla Nickerson, and James Turlington, nephew of Christy Turlington — as well as the front row that included Aaron Tveit.

Launch Gallery: Todd Snyder Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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