Tom Ford Fall 2025 Is a Bridge Between Past and Future
When Haider Ackermann was named the new creative director of Tom Ford, fashion fans everywhere rejoiced. So today, all eyes were on Paris as the designer presented his first collection for the brand, drawing Dove Cameron, Lou Doillon, and Camille Rowe.
Emerging from a backdrop that resembled a steamed-up shower, the first models out sported looks that smacked of the house’s late-’90s era: low-slung leather trousers, asymmetric leather jackets, wraparound sunglasses, and low-rise silk skirts. Mainly stark black and white, things were brighter on the beauty front: colorful eye makeup, bright lips, and hairdos that were like a minimalist’s approximation of the bouffant. Some were dressed like chic corporate raiders, complete with flat clutch bags; Lisbeth Salander if she got an office job. When color did make an appearance, it packed a punch, as with a covetable lipstick-red trench.
Slowly, the collection yielded to another motif that will be familiar to Ford loyalists: his take on ’70s excess. Here we saw ultra-high-cut gowns in butter yellow and pool blue paired with oversized bangles; skinny neon suiting; and a disco-fabulous fringed lavender dress. Ackermann’s color sense never fails, and he tapped into a rich palette here.
The model cast was full of heavy hitters, including Alex Consani, Vittoria Ceretti, and longtime Ford favorite Karen Elson. As the strains of a Nick Cave song ended, the designer came out to a standing ovation from the front row, and a hug from Ford himself, fulfilling a prediction Ford made back in September when Ackermann’s hiring was announced: “I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March.”
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