Shein is the sponsor of Toronto Kids Fashion Week. Here's why that's controversial

Toronto Kids Fashion Week had Shein, a global fast-fashion powerhouse, as its primary sponsor for its event in Ottawa on Oct. 14 The move sparked ethical questions within the fashion industry, as noted by a fashion expert.

Sheri Pavlović, a sustainable lifestyle specialist at "Confessions of a Refashionista," told Yahoo Canada in an email the "terrible conditions that garment workers are forced to endure for meager pay and unsustainable manufacturing practices [by Shein] are not at all a secret and have been known and well-documented for years."

So while this sponsorship may attract immediate attention, Pavlović said it's unlikely to have long-term negative impacts on TKFW's image or reputation.

"There have been organizations, charities, and numerous media outlets reporting the truth behind fashion brands for decades, and almost nothing has changed for the better, so why would this be any different?" Pavlović said.

The conversation around Shein's alleged ethical practices isn't new.

Good On You, a leading source for fashion brand ratings on sustainability and ethical practices, gave the Chinese company its lowest rating, "We avoid," adding "Shein creates short-lived, fast fashion products."

As Time Magazine reported earlier this year, Channel4's documentary "Inside The Shein Machine" filmed factory workers who were "forced to pull 17-hour shifts to make hundreds of garments a day. In one factory, they made a daily base salary of $20," it said. Shein then stated: "In light of the recent report in the news, we launched an investigation into the claim that 2 of our suppliers had unacceptable working conditions at their facilities."

In 2021, a CBC Marketplace investigation revealed a children's jacket sold by Shein contained high levels of lead content, prompting Health Canada to issue a recall alert (triggered by the company). In the safety alert, Health Canada said 11 units of Shein's recalled item were sold in Canada from October 2020 to September 2021.

SHEIN says it has 'strict rules' in labour standards

A spokesperson for Shein told Yahoo Canada in an email it's "thrilled to be the main sponsor of this year's Toronto Kids Fashion Week (show in Ottawa."

This was echoed by TKFW in the shared statement.

"Shein's work in empowering the next generation of fashion innovators to access their full potential is exemplified by the Shein X designer incubator program, which was launched in 2021 and now features over 3,000 designers from over 20 countries, including Canada," the statement read.

Shein also explained the brand primarily sources its products from global suppliers and upholds them through strict rules rooted in international labor standards. These rules, detailed in the Shein Supplier Code of Conduct, explicitly prohibit practices like forced labor and child labor.

The spokesperson added, "Shein also pays its suppliers competitive rates so they can adequately support their workers… To enhance working conditions for employees, Shein has committed to investing $70 million under the Shein Supplier Community Empowerment Program. Initiatives include upgrading factories, improving worker accommodations, training, upskilling, and childcare support."

Despite Shein's alleged ethical missteps, Pavlović said it's often easier for organizations "to work with huge companies that can provide the largest financial sponsorship, regardless of their manufacturing practices.

"A larger group of smaller, ethical brands" are generally "unable to donate as much support individually," she said.

She also highlighted the ongoing challenges in the fashion industry, stating "almost nothing" is produced ethically or sustainably nowadays.

"Both cheap fast fashion brands and ridiculously expensive designer labels use the same manufacturing processes, and the garments from both have even been found to be produced in the exact same factories by the exact same garment workers," said Pavlović.

She added companies who do care, add it to the tags of their clothing and "proudly display extensive information about their production methods and labour policies on their websites."

How can people dress ethically and sustainably?

Pavlović recommended people check out honest sustainable and ethical ratings for brands on the Good On You website. But, for those who are looking not to buy more clothes — refashioning items is a great step to take as well.

"Why not start by refashioning those items that you no longer wear? I've shared hundreds of easy no sew DIYs as well as simple techniques and styling hacks that can transform those forgotten garments into wardrobe faves once again," said Pavlović.

If refashioning is not an option, Pavlović recommends swapping items of clothing with friends.

"This is a fab, free way to score some new items and give the ones you're just not feeling anymore an appreciative new home too," she said.

What is Canada doing to ensure product safety in fast fashion?

In a statement to Yahoo Canada, Health Canada said from April 2022 to March 2023, it received 121 reports related to clothing, textiles and accessories, making up about 4.5 per cent of all reports that period.

"Products that are classified as clothing, textiles and accessories have not been among the top 10 most reported products, or most reported products with a non-fatal injury, in the last 5 years," the statement read. Health Canada also shared data on recalls, with 21 per cent of them related to clothing, textiles and accessories from April 2021 to March 2022.

So, while recalls like Shein's do happen, they're not too common compared to other product types.

When asked what steps Health Canada takes to address product safety within the fashion industry, the agency said its Consumer Product Safety Program oversees compliance with the Canada Consumer Product Safety Act (CCPSA), including clothing and accessories.

Health Canada explained the program collects data on injuries, emerging concerns, and scientific findings related to product safety, along with routine product testing. The Government of Canada has also launched the the Canadian Product Safety Pledge to improve product safety for products sold online.

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