How useful is an eye serum? An oculoplastic surgeon explains it all
There are two camps of skincare fans – those who believe in the power of a dedicated eye treatment, and those who will happily use their facial moisturisers and serums around the eyes. There's no right or wrong (as long as you use a good face SPF, everything else in your routine is up to your preference), but if your eyes are feeling especially tired and dry, or if you'd like to take care of early lines without irritating the area, it is worth investing in an eye serum.
What are the benefits of an eye serum?
"Eyelid skin is delicate and unique, requiring special care," says Dr Elizabeth Hawkes, consultant oculoplastic surgeon and aesthetic practitioner. "It is the first part of the face to show the signs of ageing because it's very thin and therefore loses its elasticity more quickly than other skin areas. In addition, the underlying muscle (orbicularis oculi) is highly active, given that we blink around 15,000 times a day, resulting in mechanical stress." A good serum is also useful for those who are prone to dehydration, yet find eye creams too heavy for their combination to oily skin types.
Can you use your face serum instead?
Technically, yes. But if your face serum contains a high concentration of actives, it might be a little too potent for the eye area, which tends to be more sensitive. Some face serums might also be a little too heavy and cause milia, which are "white bumps commonly present under the eyelid. They occur when naturally shed keratin gets trapped," explains Dr Hawkes.
How much difference will a topical eye serum make?
While nothing topical can completely obliterate deep wrinkles, dark circles, or puffiness, a formula that's brimming with actives such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and (to a certain potency) retinol, can help minimise their appearance. Plus, a serum with antioxidants and ceramides can also prevent the appearance of fine lines.
How to apply eye serums
To maximise the benefits of your eye serum, apply them right after cleansing. If you're someone who also wants to incorporate an eye cream, do so after applying the serum. Follow that with the rest of your routine. Apply all around the orbital bone in gentle, tapping motions to avoid tugging at the delicate skin.
What should you look for in an eye serum?
According to Dr. Hawkes, formulas with retinol work brilliantly in the evening to tackle fine lines while those with hyaluronic acid and caffeine are great for perking up the eyes in the morning. Brightening ingredients such as vitamin C and niacinamide work wonders for dark circles. For puffiness, look to cooling metal applicators. When buying an eye cream, make sure it also contains barrier-strengthening and cushioning ingredients such as ceramides, squalane and glycerin to keep the eye area feeling comfortably bouncy and hydrated.
The best eye serums to invest in
Dr Sam's Flawless Nightly Eye Serum
From skin expert Dr Sam Bunting comes this reparative eye serum that uses gentle retinoids to iron out fine lines, niacinamide to encourage hydration and a cushioning base of hydrating shea butter that prevents dryness and irritation. Meanwhile, vitamin C promises to leave your under-eyes looking brighter come sunrise.
By Terry Hyaluronic Global Eye Serum
For combination and oily skin types that have a tendency for dry under-eyes (a common occurrence if you're always in air conditioning or on skin medication), try this straightforward eye serum. It sinks in quickly and delivers deep hydration without clogging pores. The tube is also refillable.
U Beauty The Return Eye Concentrate
A testing period of sleepless nights led founder Tina Craig to design an eye treatment that promises to give the delicate area some much-needed care and attention. Using peptides, ceramides, stevia extract and diamond powder, this creamy formula tackles dark circles, puffiness, dehydration and fine lines.
Lancôme Rénergie Yeux H.C.F. Triple Eye Serum
This is a one-and-done formula that uses a combination of proven skincare actives vitamin C, niacinamide, vitamin F and hyaluronic acid to brighten dark circles, keep fine lines at bay, encourage hydration and elasticity in one fell swoop. The lightweight, silky texture promises to not clog oily-prone skin, too.
Summer Fridays Jet Lag Overnight Eye Serum
Frequent flyers will appreciate how swiftly this takes down puffiness, lifts fatigue and hydrates dry eyes using a combination of squalane, rosehip oil and ceramides. It also contains plant actives to help minimise fine lines without irritating sensitive eyes.
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum
Harness the line-diminishing prowess of retinol minus its sensitising drawbacks with Murad's much-loved serum, which contains slow-release retinol to prevent irritation. It also has kelp extracts and cotton wool grass to maintain hydration.
La Mer The Lifting Eye Serum
It is always a decadent experience with La Mer, and the eye treatment is no exception. Packed with marine botanicals and a proprietary Stretch Matrix Complex, this silky serum helps to fortify the scaffolding of the under eyes and redefine lost contours – all while playing nicely under make-up.
L'Oréal Paris 2.5% Hyaluronic Acid Eye Serum
Long nights don't stand a chance against this reviving cocktail of caffeine and hyaluronic acid, which works to perk up tired eyes and restore plumpness to fine lines. The metal applicator feels instantly cooling, too.
Chanel No.1 De Chanel Revitalising Eye Serum
With 19 years of research behind the red camellia, Chanel bottles the antioxidant properties of the flower in its eye serum to protect the delicate area from environmental damage. The clever rotating applicator makes it an ideal pick-me-up for tired eyes, too.
Decorte Liposome Advanced Repair Eye Serum
This time-release formula delivers lasting hydration to sensitive and dry under eyes throughout the day. It is also laced with probiotics to soothe any redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
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