The Very Best Deviled Eggs (We Tested 6 Famous Contenders!)
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A couple of years ago, I was at a large potluck where at least 50 people had brought their favorite dishes to share. Naturally there were a couple of deviled egg options in the group, yet people were raving about one. It was full of savory flavor, with a hearty filling that featured scallions and bacon. And while the other option looked great, it didn’t get as much love. Studded with paprika and fresh parsley, the filling was runny and oddly sweet. One of my friends came back to the table excited to try the egg that everyone was talking about. Unfortunately for him, he accidentally picked up the “loser egg,” and by the time he went back through the line all of the “winner eggs” were gone.
That type of scenario happens all the time in the South where I live. At any get-together, you’re bound to see deviled eggs, and it always feels like a bit of a gamble when you put one on your plate. Will it be a well-seasoned one with interesting savory bits, or will it be one of those “loser eggs”? If it’s a good one, it’s one of the best two-bite appetizers around.
For this showdown, I went in search of the ultimate deviled egg recipe. After testing six famous recipes, I’m happy to report that there weren’t any “loser eggs” in the bunch — but one was simply outstanding. Read on to learn about the one I went back to more than once.
Carla Hall’s Down-Home Deviled Eggs can’t be beat. This crowd-pleasing recipe delivers deviled eggs that pack big flavor and a crispy-chewy texture, thanks to the crumbled bacon sprinkled on top.
Meet Our 6 Deviled Egg Contenders
The recipes included in this showdown all share some similarities. They of course start with boiled eggs, and most of the recipes (with one exception noted below) give instructions for the boiling step. They all include some mayonnaise in their fillings, and most also fold in some form of mustard. A couple of the recipes incorporate “meaty” bits, either in the form of actual meat (bacon) or fish (smoked salmon), and different flavor boosters like chives, smoked paprika, pickled jalapeños, and pickles find their way into some of the recipes as well.
Ina Garten: This recipe was the most different from the bunch. It uses a small amount of mayonnaise, relying on cream cheese and sour cream for creaminess. The eggs also feature two forms of salmon: chopped smoked salmon in the filling, and salmon roe as a garnish.
Oprah Winfrey: The filling for these eggs has a lot of flavor boosters: mustard, sweet pickles, horseradish sauce, and Tabasco. Most of these ingredients are in tiny amounts, but the recipe calls for a noticeably large dollop of mustard.
Carla Hall: The recipe itself is pretty straightforward with mayo, Dijon, and a hint of cayenne pepper in the filling. However, two ingredients piqued my interest: the cider vinegar in the filling, and the bacon sprinkled on top.
Dolly Parton: With one of the shortest ingredient lists, this recipe has mayo, Dijon mustard, Tabasco sauce, and salt in the filling and is finished with a sprinkle of chives and paprika.
Melissa Clark: With smoked paprika, tomato paste, and red wine vinegar, this deviled egg visually stands out.
Sunny Anderson: Into the mix of egg yolks, mayonnaise, and Dijon, this recipe adds lemon zest and pickled jalapeños. Crumbled fried onions serve as a unique finishing touch.
How I Tested the Deviled Egg Recipes
I tested the recipes in two batches. I couldn’t quite swing making all of the recipes on the same day, so I split them up and prepared them on two different days.
I tested with store-brand eggs. Because I’d be adding lots of flavorings to the yolks, I figured generic eggs would be fine. I used Publix store-brand eggs — large eggs for all but one recipe, which specified extra-large eggs.
I used the same brand for other common ingredients. Aside from the eggs noted above, I also went with Duke’s mayonnaise and Maille Dijon mustard.
I used each recipe’s specified method for boiling eggs. I made note of that in each recipe description. One recipe didn’t include boiling instructions, so I give details for how I prepared them below.
I used my favorite method for peeling all the eggs. I peeled each egg under water, which was the winning method in my egg-peeling skills showdown.
I tasted the eggs at least two times. I initially tried them just after I assembled them, and I tasted them again after the eggs had chilled for a few hours, as many folks make deviled eggs ahead of time.
Why You Should Trust Me as a Tester
I have spent the last 25 years in food media — 20 as a magazine editor, five as a freelance recipe developer and food writer. Over the course of my career, I have written, tested, and developed literally thousands of recipes. I know how to evaluate a recipe for flavor, texture, and clarity and success (or failure) of the process.
1. The Tangiest Deviled Egg: Oprah Winfrey’s Deviled Eggs
Overall rating: 6.5/10
Get the recipe: Oprah Winfrey’s Deviled Eggs
This recipe did not specify a boiling method, so I used the runner-up steaming method from my skills showdown, as I knew the shells would be easy to peel. This seemed like a bit of a kitchen sink recipe, as it called for tiny amounts of some ingredients — just a dash each of Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, horseradish, and Tabasco. The recipe called simply for “mustard,” so I went with prepared yellow mustard.
Ultimately, those flavors didn’t come through in the final dish because they were overpowered by two tablespoons of mustard (Dijon is so strong that it didn’t seem like the right choice here, and the other recipes that included mustard, by contrast, used just one or two teaspoons). The mustard made the eggs very tangy, which the tablespoon of minced sweet pickles tried to balance. But overall, the flavors just seemed out of balance. Every bite was too tangy and too sharp.
2. The Lemony Deviled Egg: Sunny Anderson’s Sunny’s Deviled Eggs
Overall rating: 7/10
Get the recipe: Sunny Anderson’s Sunny’s Deviled Eggs
This recipe starts by placing a half-dozen eggs in a pot, covering them with cool water, bringing the water to a boil, then removing the pot from the heat, covering, and setting aside for 15 minutes. The eggs were very firm, and the yolks were a little dry (yet thankfully free of the dreaded green ring).
This was the only recipe that used six eggs, so the small amount of filling ingredients pulled a lot of weight. The quarter-cup of mayo and teaspoon of Dijon that were mashed into the filling gave it a nice, creamy texture. And two teaspoons of chopped pickled jalapeños lent bright, vegetal notes and a hint of heat. The recipe calls for “1 lemon, zested,” and I used a small lemon, as the recipe was for a small batch of eggs. Even with a modest amount of zest, the floral citrus notes completely overwhelmed the other flavors. The crunchy onions on top (sprinkle them on just before serving if making these ahead, so they’ll stay crisp) added a nice textural contrast, but the flavor got lost in the end due to the lemon.
3. The Fanciest Deviled Egg: Ina Garten’s Smoked Salmon Deviled Eggs
Overall rating: 8/10
Get the recipe: Ina Garten’s Smoked Salmon Deviled Eggs
The boiling method for this recipe was the same as in the previous recipe from Sunny Anderson. But with eight extra-large eggs, the texture was still quite firm but not as dry. The flavor here was superb, if you like salmon, but I felt like there were some technical issues with the recipe. First, the filling includes a half-cup of sour cream, two ounces of cream cheese, and a couple tablespoons of mayo. That amount of creaminess contributed to a very loose filling that was similar in texture to traditional (not strained) Greek yogurt. You also incorporate four ounces of minced smoked salmon and two tablespoons of chives, but those solids don’t help to firm up the filling (although it does firm up a bit if you chill the finished eggs for a few hours).
That said, I also ended up with too much filling. Think about it: You’re adding all of those extra ingredients (increasing the volume by a cup or more in total) and trying to stuff it all back into the eggs. I packed as much as I could into the egg whites, but still had about one-fourth of the filling left over. The filling is indeed delicious, so having extra isn’t entirely terrible (it’s great as a dip with potato chips). But when paired with the looseness of the filling, the recipe would be better served with less sour cream at the least.
Finally, the recipe could easily have been way too salty. In the accompanying recipe video, Garten stresses the importance of using smoked salmon, which isn’t as salty as lox. All of the smoked salmon I found at the store contained nearly the same amount of sodium per ounce as lox, so I used caution with the added salt. The recipe calls for a full teaspoon in the filling, but I started with half, as my salmon was already salty. And I knew that the roe topping would provide a burst of salt on the palate as well. Many reviewers used the amount the recipe called for and had a dish that was too salty to serve. At the end of the day, this recipe is scrumptious for sure, but you’ll want to make a few adjustments to guarantee success.
4. The Smoky Option: Melissa Clark’s Smoky Red Devil Eggs
Overall rating: 8.5/10
Get the recipe: Melissa Clark’s Smoky Red Devil Eggs
To prepare the eggs for this recipe, place a dozen large ones in a pot, cover with cold water, bring to a full boil, cook for a minute, turn off the heat, cover the pan, and let the eggs stand for 15 minutes. This method results in very firm eggs with slightly chalky yolks. Mash the yolks with a paste made from fresh garlic and kosher salt, a half cup of mayonnaise, two tablespoons of tomato paste, a couple teaspoons of red wine vinegar, and a quarter teaspoon each of black pepper and hot smoked paprika. A dusting of more paprika finishes the eggs.
The filling had a rosy color and was nice and firm. When they were just made and at room temperature, these deviled eggs had a mild Romesco sauce-like flavor created by the sweetness of the tomato paste (I used double-concentrated), fresh garlic, red wine vinegar, and spicy hot smoked paprika. My smoked paprika was very fresh, so its flavor was perfectly pungent, yet the overall effect in the finished eggs was a bit mild. As a result, I went heavy on the smoked paprika garnish to boost the taste.
The color and flavor of these deviled eggs are a wonderful change of pace from traditional versions. After the eggs had chilled a bit, the flavors were very muted, almost bordering on bland, so if you’ve made these ahead, make sure to let them stand at room temperature for about a half hour before serving.
5. The Buttery Deviled Egg: Dolly Parton’s Dressed Eggs
Overall rating: 9/10
Get the recipe: Dolly Parton’s Dressed Eggs
To boil these eggs, you’re instructed to place them (a dozen large) in a pot, cover with cool water, and bring to a boil. You then cover the pan, lower the heat to low, and simmer the eggs for 5 minutes. This method left the yolks quite jammy, and I was a bit skeptical because I’ve always hard-boiled eggs for deviled eggs. I also had doubts because the filling ingredients were so simple.
But once I mashed the yolks with the other filling ingredients — a third-cup of mayo, a teaspoon of Dijon, three drops of Tabasco, and quarter teaspoon salt — what I discovered was an incredibly creamy mixture with a lusciously rich and buttery flavor. The overall taste was mild but fantastically rich. And the chives that were sprinkled on top punched up the flavor with fresh, savory notes. So yes, while this recipe is very simple, when done well, it’s pretty outstanding.
6. The Most Irresistible: Carla Hall’s Down-Home Deviled Eggs with Smoky Bacon
Overall rating: 9.75/10
Get the recipe: Carla Hall’s Down-Home Deviled Eggs with Smoky Bacon
The boiling technique for this recipe calls for placing a dozen large eggs in a pot, covering with cold water, adding a tablespoon of salt, and bringing to a boil. You then cover the pot, remove from the heat, and let stand for 10 minutes. You’re left with hard-boiled eggs with firm yolks that are moist, bright, and sunny yellow.
You’ll cut the eggs crosswise for a fancier appearance (you could also cut lengthwise if you’d rather) and mash the yolks with a tablespoon of cider vinegar. Then you stir in 1/3 cup mayo, two teaspoons of Dijon, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt, cayenne pepper, and black pepper. After stuffing this mixture into the egg whites, finish by sprinkling crumbled bacon over the deviled eggs.
The rich, meaty, smoky bacon provided an irresistible flavor and wonderfully crispy-chewy texture to contrast the creamy filling. The filling’s texture was hearty and firm. The cider vinegar brightened the flavor without going too tangy, and the hit of cayenne offered the perfect amount of subtle heat. I can confidently guarantee that if you bring these to a party, they will be gobbled up, and folks will ask you for the recipe. The only thing I would recommend adding to turn this recipe into pure perfection is a bit of minced chives or scallions for a hint of allium punch. Otherwise, no notes — this one’s a winner.
Further Reading
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