The Boldest, Most Exciting New Timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025

Watches & Wonders, the world’s largest horological trade show, just got started with a bang in Geneva, Switzerland. The year’s most hotly anticipated and fervently watched batch of timepiece releases offered up a celebration of each exhibiting brand’s most beloved designs from the past century of horology. But there was still plenty of room for collectors to be surprised.

Take Cartier. For the first time in 20 years, the French maison has created a Tank à Guichets—a “digital” take on its classic Tank model, which was first released in 1928. And while three of the four new editions look more or less the same as the Jazz Age original, one offers a literal twist, with hour and minute apertures just slightly off from where they’ve traditionally been.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is celebrating its best known model, the Reverso, has stuff its newest time turners with all manner of hard-to-achieve mechanical mastery (we’re looking at you and your hand-would multi-axis tourbillon movement, Hybris Artistica Calibre 179), but also reached back to ancient Persian crafts for inspiration for the hand-painted enamel on some of its limited editions.

And we’d be remiss not to mention IWC, known for its pilots watches. There are five new versions, one of which could win an award for the longest official name of a new release. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month—try saying that five times fast—is a high-octane take on the QP that you can operate from its crown. That it’s crafted from black Ceratanium, a blend of ceramic and titanium that IWC patented, just makes it that much more robust.

For a long time, there were complaints about how much time many Swiss watch brands spent “mining the archives” because the result was a lack of innovation and new energy. But this year’s batch of releases suggests that the leading watchmakers have found a satisfying way to respect their past achievements and still forge new paths. Below, a look at how they’re doing just that.

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A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetuel

A. Lange & Söhne came to wow its savvy collectors this year with the new Minute Repeater Perpetuel, which, as the name suggests, combines two of the most extraordinarily difficult-to-execute complications in horology: a minue repeater and a perpetual calendar. Naturally, a piece this fine comes in 950 platinum and is limited to just 50 pieces. Its glossy black enamel dial frames a subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock for the day-of-the-week and 24-hour displays, another at 3 o’clock for the month and leap-year indications, and a third at 6 o’clock for the moonphase featuring moons in 750 gold and 100 hand-engraved stars.

Beneath this classic and beautiful display is a brand new calibre L122.2 made of 640 parts, including Lange’s signature engraved balance cock, a three-quarter plate made of German silver with black rhodium engravings, and screwed gold chatons, to name just a few of the exquisite details that complete this masterpiece. The minute repeater mechanism is set into action via a slide on the left-hand side of the case to strike the hours at a low pitch, the quarter hours at a double tone, and the minutes that have elapsed since the last hour with a higher pitch tone. The timepiece sings its melody via two differently tuned gongs in a repertoire of 720 sequences for every minute in the 12-hour cycle.

One can imagine that Anthony de Haas, Lange’s much-loved director of product development and an avid drummer, enjoyed the challenge of creating this ultra-complicated connoisseur timepiece. It may also be true that he needs a long vacation after this revelation. In any case, this is certainly a highlight of Watches & Wonders.

Case Size: 40.5 x 12.1 mm
Case Material: 950 platinum
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: hand-stitched alligator leather
Price: Limited to 50, upon request

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold

We got a sneak peek of the new Odysseus Honeygold model at Lange’s New York boutique ahead of Watches & Wonders and can say that neither pictures nor video can accurately capture the beauty of this proprietary gold rendered in a full-bracelet timepiece. It’s a very subtle, soft, and tasteful shade of the precious metal that seems to change the depth of its hue in certain lighting. “It can be a sort of white gold or a yellowish pinkish gold,” A. Lange & Söhne president Wilhelm Schmid says of its chameleon-like qualities. It’s also more practical than standard gold as it’s harder and less prone to scratching.

It may seem like standard fare to make a gold bracelet, but at this conservative German house, it’s a bold move. “When you think of A. Lange & Söhne, a full gold watch doesn’t come to your mind,” Schmid says. “It’s not really in line with our DNA.” So, why did they do it? Clients were asking for it. The Honegold alloy, of course, offers a more toned-down take on the gold watch resurgence, and Lange wisely chose to pair it with a warm chocolate dial. “When I first saw it, I said, ‘Jesus, I’m so unhappy that I can’t buy it,” says Schmid. Clients first, folks…and only the best ones at that.

Case Size: 40.5 x 11.1 mm
Case Material: Honeygold
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Price: Limited to 100, upon request

A. Lange & Söhne 1815

The 1815 is Lange’s straightforward dress watch, made in honor of founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange, who was born in the year for which this timepiece was named. Previous versions have come in 750 white gold and pink gold with an argenté dial crafted from solid silver. This year, not only is Lange offering two blue dial versions in the same case materials, but it also houses a new movement. The reason for reworking the interior is that Lange’s astute collectors were asking for an even smaller size than the existing 38.5 mm by 8.8 mm cases.

To fit the new smaller size, Lange developed the L152.1, which has a hand-engraved balance cock and three-quarter plate decorated in Glasshütte ribbing, as well as four screwed gold chatons, bearing jewels, and blued screws. The new movement also ups the power reserve from 55 hours to 72 hours and incorporates a new wheel train. Of course, what makes Lange special is the discreet and reserved aesthetic of its dials, which mask some of the most beautiful movements in the industry. Fortunately, you can see the new L152.1 through the caseback.

The new 1815 is a welcome addition to the Lange catalog in a great size that will surely widen the audience for the model. The new movement only sweetens the release, and we can imagine that even owners of the 38.5 mm 1815s might be able to make a convincing argument for why they may need yet another.

Case Size: 34 x 6.4  mm
Case Material: Honeygold
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Price: Limited to 100, upon request

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

It’s hard to believe Bulgari could go any thinner, but it just has. The master of micro-watchmaking debuts its 10th world record this week with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world’s smallest tourbillon. The knife-edge thin 1.85 mm thickness is made possible by skeletonization (cutting away as much metal as possible), and by integrating the movement with the main plate. It measures in at only a hair thicker than Bulgari’s other most recent world records, the 1.7 mm Octo Finissimo Ultra and the 1.8 mm Octo Finissimo Ultra in platinum. The 1.85 mm dimension leaves little room for error in the making. Taking a tourbillon movement down to that size means adhering to the tightest tolerances imaginable: take away one too many shavings of metal, and you could render the movement too fragile. As Bulgari puts it, the process is “a search for the balance point between lightness, finesse and robustness.” It is powered by the manually wound tourbillon caliber BVF 900, a COSC-certified movement.

Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Titanium lugs, bezel, and middle case. Tungsten carbide main plate. Winding and time-setting wheels in stainless steel.
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Strap: Sandblasted titanium bracelet
Price: TBD

Bulgari Serpenti Aeterna

Bulgari has given us the Serpenti in several formats, including the flexible tubogas, the heavily adorned high jewelry watch, and the Seduttori dress watch with a serpent-head case. The Serpenti Aeterna is a departure from those. It’s a bangle with a solid, inflexible bracelet, with a more stylized representation of the Serpenti head than we’ve seen in the past. There are “no eyes, no scales, no adornment,” Bulgari points out in a statement. The first two points are true. Gone are the scale motif patterns on the bracelet, and there are no emeralds or rubies to represent eyes. As for adornment, do diamonds not count? The white gold version, in particular, is set with some pretty hefty diamonds totaling 10 carats, with every surface set. Aeterna means everlasting or perpetual, which dovetails with the lore behind the serpent, which is said to represent eternity. As do diamonds.

Case Size: 14.20 mm x 25 mm
Case Material: 18-karat white gold or 18-karat red gold
Movement: Quartz
Strap: 18-karat white gold or 18-karat red gold
Price: TBC

Bovet Récital 30

The Récital 30 is a smaller, daily wear version of last year’s Récital 28, the first mechanical timekeeper to solve the Daylight Saving Time problem. World time watches were previously unable to adapt to DST start and end times in different countries, but an innovative roller system allows the Récital 30 and Récital 28 to display 25 global time zones (including local time in New Delhi, India) during the four time periods of the year—Coordinated Universal Time, American Summer Time, European and American Summer Time, and European Winter Time. The Récital 28 was limited to 60 pieces, and while the Récital 30 is not limited, only 30 can be produced in 2025. It’s semi-customizable: buyers can change the city names, as well as choose from several colors of the 24-hour dial and the minute track. There are two versions: one in 18-karat red gold and the other in titanium.

Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: 18-karat red gold or titanium
Power Reserve: 62 hours
Strap: Rubber
Price: Titanium, CHF 68,000; red gold, CHF 96,800

Bovet Récital 12 36 MM

Fans—with smaller wrists—of last year’s Recital 12 are in luck: There is now a 36 mm size, down from the 40 mm original. The name was inspired by the world of classical music, with the analogy being that, just as musicians come together to perform a récital, Bovet’s artisans collaborate to craft a watch. The craftsmanship includes gem setting (the bezel is set with 56 diamonds) and intricate fleur-de-lotus guilloché covered in lacquer. The lotus flower is a symbol of the brand, and its shape is also reflected in the eccentric hour and minute hands, which are meant to look like the blossom. The etched pattern on the caseback was inspired by a heritage pocket watch that resides in Bovet’s museum. It comes in a blue or raspberry dial hue, as well as a white mother-of-pearl option.

Case Size: 36 mm
Case Material: Steel
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Steel or alligator leather
Price: CHF 26,000

Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets in Platinum

Cartier’s Tank watch has inspired countless iterations since its introduction in 1917. In 1928, the maison released its first Tank à Guichets, which takes its name from the French word for ticket window. At the time, the design was an innovative take—technically, it’s a digital watch—which allowed wearers to read the time even faster, thanks to one aperture displaying a jumping hour and another with a dragging minutes counter.

It’s been revived for 2025 in two editions with manual wind movements. This one, in a platinum case, positions the hours at 10 o’clock and the minutes at 4 o’clock. It’s a literal slant from the other models released this year, and is available in a limited edition of just 200 pieces.

Case Size: 37.6 x 24.8 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Strap: Black Alligator
Price: Limited to 200, $61,000

Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets

If, for some reason, you can’t get your hands on the limited edition, you still have options. Cartier will offer three additional references: One in yellow gold, one in rose gold, and a third in platinum. Each of them is an homage to the original 1928 Tank à Guichets and places the hours at 12 o’clock and the minutes at 6 o’clock. What’s more, the color of each numeral track has been precision-engineered to match their alligator straps: dark green for the yellow gold, dark gray for the rose gold, and burgundy for the platinum version.

Case Size: 37.6 x 24.8 mm
Case Material: Yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum
Strap: Alligator
Price: $47,700 in rose gold and yellow gold; $55,500 in platinum

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

Though it’s perhaps the most recognizable of Cartier’s Tank models, the Tank Louis Cartier wasn’t actually the first. That was what we now call the Tank Normale, with its squared brancards, released in 1917. The Tank Louis Cartier and its rounded brancards and slightly more elongated rectangular shape, weren’t released until 1922.

Now, 103 years later, the Tank Louis Cartier has been refreshed with a new in-house automatic movement, called the 1899 MC, which allowed the maison’s design team to experiment with a larger size. It’s a big(ger) departure from the teeny Tank Louis Cartier released in 2024 and will likely make the design more accessible for guys rebelling against the “smaller is better” messaging coming from so many watchmakers today.

Case Size: 38.1 x 27.75 mm
Case Material: Yellow gold, rose gold
Strap: Alligator
Price: $14,900 in yellow gold and rose gold

Cartier Tressage

In this new design, which serves as a tribute to Jeanne Toussaint—the first woman to serve as a creative director at Cartier, appointed in 1933—the brancards are blown up, “braided” twists of metal. (Tressage, the name, comes from the French word for braiding.) And while horological nerds will likely pooh pooh the quartz movement, the aesthetes will appreciate the necessity of that sacrifice. The braids, which surround both the dial and an integrated leather strap, are eye-catching and fun, offering a surface that can be decorated in endless ways. There are four versions: one with smooth gold braids, another with alternating ropes of gold and pave diamonds, a third fully covered in diamonds, and a final model with a diamond-sapphire gradient that blends beautifully with its navy blue leather strap.

Case Size: 56.2 x 25.7 mm
Case Material: Yellow gold, yellow and white gold with diamonds, white gold with diamonds, white gold with diamonds and sapphires
Strap: Calfskin
Price: $40,000 for yellow gold; $75,000 for yellow gold and diamonds; $122,000 in all diamonds; $134,000 in diamonds and sapphires

​​Cartier Panthère de Cartier

The Panthère program at Cartier is a tent big enough for many of the big cats—and that umbrella term sometimes even extends to other animals, too. Take, for example, the newest Panthère watch, gem-set with a stripe pattern that’s somewhere between tiger and zebra. Both the case and bracelet are set with white diamonds and orange and yellow spessarites, while black and brown lacquer help to form the wild pattern. It’s a less serious take on the jewelry watch, and it’s a lot of fun to look at.

Case Size: 36.5 mm x 26.7 mm
Case Material: Rose gold set with diamonds and spessarites
Strap: Rose gold integrated bracelet set with diamonds and spessarites
Price: $150,000

Cartier Panthère Jewelry Watch

If you’re a big cat person, fret not. Cartier is also introducing two new editions of the Panthère jewelry watch, in which the house’s well-known mascot appears to dive into a small clock, chasing the time almost all the way around your wrist. One model, in yellow gold, features pentagon-shaped black lacquer spots, tsavorite eyes, an onyx nose, and a diamond-set bezel on the watch. The other, crafted from white gold, is set with 1,100 small diamonds, onyx spots, and emeralds for eyes. The polishing and gem-setting on this version can take 230 hours to complete.

Wrist Size: 150mm, 160mm, 170 mm
Bracelet: Yellow gold and diamonds; white gold with diamonds and onyx
Price: $78,000 in yellow gold and diamonds; $206,000 in white gold with diamonds and onyx

Chanel J12 Pink Line

A watch with 215 baguette-cut pink sapphires (3.82 carats on the case, and 8.30 carats on the bracelet) sounds flashy, but the gems in the J12 Pink Line are surprisingly discreet. The sapphires are set only into the sides of the case and the bracelet, so when you look at the watch dial-side up, you see only black—but not just a plain expanse of black ceramic. Chanel has faceted the ceramic into baguette shapes for the dial, bezel, and bracelet. There are 342 black ceramic baguettes set into the bracelet alone. The play of pink and black represent Chanel’s famous lipstick container, with a pink shade inside the tube. Chanel says it took more than 300 hours to position the pink sapphires and black ceramic parts, and a month-and-a-half to shape their openings. Longer, no doubt, than it takes to make a tube of lipstick. The creative ways Chanel continues to weave together its various product lines never ceases to amaze.

Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: Steel with black coating and ceramic baguettes
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap: Steel with black coating and ceramic baguettes
Price: Limited edition of 12 pieces, price upon request

Chanel J12 Box “Dripping Art”

Using grand feu enamel to simulate drips of nail polish has to be a first in high watchmaking, and who but a high-fashion brand to pioneer the art form? Chanel says it did 200 hours of research, which included producing 100 different color tests to perfect the process of applying enamel to ceramics to match its nail colors. The look is inspired by dripping art, a painting technique made famous by Jackson Pollock that involves paint being dripped, poured, or splattered onto a canvas instead of being applied with a brush. The result is a pentaptych of five works of art. The inside of the lacquered box they come in also mimics the splash pattern of the glossy drops, connecting each watch to the next. Only five box sets will be available.

Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: Black ceramic
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap: Black ceramic bracelet
Price: Five-set limited edition, price upon request

Chanel Boy.Friend Coco Art

This dial’s pop-art style image of Mademoiselle Chanel looking at her reflection in the mirror of her powder compact case calls to mind a similar Boy.Friend model snapped up by Kevin O’Leary at a Phillips Time For Art charity auction last year. The watch, for which O’Leary paid $222,250, had the same voice bubble proclaiming “It’s Chanel time,” and depicts Coco wearing her signature pearls, red lipstick and red nails. This watch is identical save for the bezel. Here it is set with 38 pink sapphire baguettes rather than diamond baguettes. The images were created using a technique called tampography: 12 successive prints are stamped manually onto a white gold dial. The pink background is crafted with grand feu enamel.

Case Size: 37 mm x 28.6 mm
Case Material: Black coated steel
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Black calfskin
Price: Limited edition of 20 pieces

Chanel Sautoir Watches

Long, swishy sautoirs have been swinging back into fashion over the past three or four years, and several luxury watch brands—mainly maisons that also create jewelry, like Cartier, Bulgari, and Piaget—have been embracing the style by adding watches to their designs. Chanel makes the trend its own with its signature iconography, which this year focuses on beauty products. Three new sautoirs include an onyx lipstick case (Kiss Me) that opens to reveal a watch dial; an amulet-style pendant with a special take on the evil eye motif that depicts the heavily made up eye of Mademoiselle herself (Protect Me); and a Talisman sautoir with rubellite cabochons and five pink tourmalines arranged in the Byzantine motif that Gabrielle Chanel loved, in shades of blush and lipstick (Give Me Luck). All three are secret watches; the first is hidden in a lipstick case on Kiss Me, while time is read on the flip side of the others. Métiers d’art include lacquering, and grand feu enamel along with diamond setting. They hang on gold chains with stations of onyx and diamonds. The movements are quartz.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum

Chopard is adding some heft to its flagship sports collection with a platinum model. It’s the first Chopard platinum piece to debut a new mark to identify its metal: a bee symbol, hand-engraved between the lugs. The bee, signifying industriousness and a collaborative spirit, has long been a symbol of the brand. Watch companies often use a symbolic element to indicate platinum editions (Patek Philippe sets a diamond on the case between the lower lugs, and Rolex graces its platinum editions with ice-blue dials). The eagle’s iris dial motif is given a “shades of ice” blue gradient finish inspired by alpine glaciers.

The XP in the name indicates the watch is extra flat (it is only 8 mm thick), and the CS refers to the central seconds. The integrated bracelet is complex, with links of varying heights and finishes—polished, satin-brushed, or straight-grained matte—adding volume and texture. The movement, caliber 96.42-L, is COSC-certified and made to Poinçon de Genève standards, with a platinum micro-rotor and twin barrels for a 65-hour power reserve. The watch is made to Poinçon de Genève standards.

Case size: 41 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Platinum bracelet
Price: $110,500

Chopard L.U.C Quattro

The Quattro, with its nine-day power reserve—thanks to four barrels (containing 1.885 meters of springs)—is getting a refresh for its 25th anniversary. Purists will love the slimmed down 39 mm by 10.4 mm case. The L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 model from last year measured 40 mm wide and 10.30 mm thick. The new movement, a variant on the L.U.C 98.01-L, has been tweaked, shifting the power reserve indicator to a movement bridge, visible on the caseback—it was previously located at 12 o’clock. The watch is made to Poinçon de Genève standards and is a beautiful, clean dress watch in line with the covetable and sophisticated L.U.C line.

Case size: 39 mm
Case Material: 18-karat rose gold
Power Reserve:  Nine days (216 hours)
Strap: Blue alligator or brown calfskin
Price: $38,400

Chopard Alpine Eagle 33

Chopard puts its scaled-down automatic movement—the COSC-certified caliber 09.01-C, developed initially for the Happy Sport—to work in its sporty Alpine Eagle collection with a new 33 mm piece scaled for smaller wrists. Compared to the more decorative Happy Sport, this trendy two-tone is a great day watch for ladies, a segment gaining a lot of traction. The bezel, crown, and narrow center links are yellow gold, and the rest is Lucent steel, which is 80 percent recycled. A couple of design features set it apart from the conventional two-tone three-hand: the bezel is set with diamonds and eight decorative screws that are signature to the Alpine Eagle collection; and the textured dial is inspired by the eagle’s iris and colored (in “Vals gray”) to match the silvery reflections of the quartzite slabs covering the roofs and walls of old alpine houses. (Chopard picks its colors according to the vistas and natural elements of the Alps). To clinch the alpine theme, the counterweight on the seconds hand is shaped like an eagle’s feather.

Case size: 33 mm
Case Material: 18-karat ethical yellow gold and Lucent steel
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: 18-karat ethical yellow gold and Lucent steel
Price: $22,500

Chopard L’Heure du Diamant Moonphase

A high jewelry moon phase watch is one of the most impressive expressions of ladies watchmaking mixing a poetic complication with sizeable diamonds. Chopard brings 3.86 carats of dazzle to this one, with double diamond markers, a ring of diamonds around the moon phase display, and a bezel set with large diamonds that extend to the lugs.

But a pretty face is not all this watch has to offer. It contains a new movement, the automatic 09.02-C, a scaled-down moon phase caliber that fits into the L’Heure du Diamant’s 35.75 mm case. This is the collection’s first complication. The diamonds are crown-set, secured by prongs that leave the pavilion exposed so more light can enter the gems. That means more light is reflected outward from the table for more shine. The v-shaped prongs were designed to resemble lacework. The diamonds compliment the glitter in the aventurine dial, a material that can sometimes look dark on a watch dial, especially surrounded by a dark case material. This is, of course, an evening watch but is just as wearable for daytime peacocking.

Case size: 35.75 mm
Case Material: 18-karat ethical white gold
Power Reserve:  42 hours
Strap: Navy blue alligator
Price: $101,000, exclusively at Chopard boutiques

Chopard L’Heure du Diamant 26 mm

This petite cocktail watch is a white gold and mother-of-pearl variation of last year’s model, which had a malachite dial. It contains the small-scale caliber 10.01-C, which keeps the profile to a compact 26 mm width and 9 mm thickness. The bezel is set with generously sized diamonds totaling 2.20 carats which are crown-set, meaning that since the pavilion is exposed, more light can enter the gems and reflect outward from the table for extra brilliance. The V-shaped prongs, which can be seen from the side, are meant to evoke lacework. The 1970s-inspired bark motif on the gold bracelet was hand engraved using a proprietary technique established by Chopard’s jewelry workshops in the 1960s.

Case size: 26 mm
Case Material: 18-karat ethical white gold
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Strap: 18-karat white gold bracelet
Price: $47,000

Chopard Happy Sport

Chopard, a purveyor of both watches and jewelry, is ideally positioned to uncover rare gems and minerals for use in its watch dials. The new Happy Sport’s dial is made of lepidolite, a lilac-colored hardstone with a sparkly matrix and swirling pinkish undertones. It’s the first time a hardstone has been used in the collection, and it has a true feminine hue. The color, which represents serenity and calm, is framed in a rose-gold case, with a lilac strap and a purple amethyst in the crown. Like all Happy Sport models, the lepidolite is topped by five diamonds that bounce between two crystals over the dial. The watch contains a scaled-down automatic movement, the caliber 09.01-C, which Chopard developed to fit the dimensions of the Happy Sport case—this one is 33 mm. This is a 25-piece limited edition.

Case size: 33 mm
Case Material: 18k ethical rose gold
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Lilac-toned alligator
Price: Limited to 25 pieces, $29,700

Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. SLBG001

Grand Seiko’s passionate pursuit of accuracy has a long, distinguished history. In 1969, it released a watch that achieved ±1 minute per month—a groundbreaking feat for a mechanical movement of the era. Then, with the development of its Spring Drive movement, it released the caliber 9R65 in 2004, which achieves ±15 seconds a month.

Now, thanks to a brand new Spring Drive caliber called 9RB2, Grand Seiko can claim a movement at ±15 per year. The accomplishment is so significant that the watchmaker has given it new terminology: Ultra Fine Adjustment. According to its internal research—so pick up a grain of Hana Flake salt—that makes its new Spring Drive U.F.A. watch the most accurate mechanical timepiece on the market today.

How long that will stay true remains to be seen. In the meantime, Grand Seiko has released the SLBG001, a limited edition of just 80 pieces, powered by the movement. (Bonus: The mechanism is small enough that the case clocks in at a reasonable 37mm). If you miss out on this edition, fret not. There will also be a titanium model with the same movement that won’t have limited production.

Case Size: 37mm
Case Material: Platinum, titanium
Strap: Crocodile strap on platinum, titanium bracelet
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Price: $39,000 in platinum, $10,900 in steel

Hublot Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire

Hublot’s mastery of sapphire crystal comes to life in its newest transparent model, the Water Blue Sapphire, part of the brand’s long-running Big Bang Unico series. Limited to 50 pieces, the model boasts a Windex blue hue that extends from the case to the bezel and strap. While the watch’s color evokes a casual day at the beach, the mechanics inside are serious business: The model’s in-house Unico movement features a self-winding chronograph flyback with column wheel.

Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: Polished sapphire crystal
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Translucent blue rubber strap
Price: $138,000

Hublot Big Bang Unico and Big Bang One Click Petrol Blue and Mint Green

Ceramic is hardly a new material for watchmakers. But you’ve never seen it like this. Hublot has applied its expertise in material coloration to two models—the Big Bang Unico 42 mm and the Big Bang One Click 33 mm—that come bathed in soothing blue-green tones of ceramic, dubbed Petrol Blue and Mint Green. The open-dialed 42 mm model is powered by the brand’s in-house automatic chronograph caliber, while the chic 33 mm One Click style has a diamond-set steel bezel. Both are perfectly suited to the season.

Case Size: 33 mm, 42 mm
Case Material: Polished Mint Green or Petrol Blue ceramic 
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Rubber straps
Price: $17,500 for 33 mm, $24,100 for 42 mm

Hublot Big Bang One Click

Hublot makes clear its commitment to color with a quintet of vibrant One Click Joyful models in a range of hues with matching rubber straps and bezels studded with gemstones (including red spinels, orange sapphires, pink sapphires, sky blue topaz and apple green tsavorites). The self-winding watches, named for the brand’s trademarked One Click quick strap-change mechanism, mark the first time the Big Bang One Click core collection features colored stones and matching rubber straps.

Case Size: 33 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Rubber straps
Price: $12,200

Hublot Big Bang Master of Sapphire Set

In 2016, Hublot introduced its first Big Bang in full sapphire. A year later, the brand followed up with its first Big Bang in colored sapphire. Now, on the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, comes the “Master of Sapphire” set comprising five examples of the Big Bang MECA-10, each housed in a case made of sapphire crystal or SAXEM (“Sapphire Aluminum oXide and rare Earth Mineral”): transparent sapphire, water blue sapphire, deep blue sapphire, purple sapphire and neon yellow SAXEM. Limited to five sets, the collection not only marks the first time the MECA-10, an in-house manual winding skeleton movement, is encased in sapphire, it also proves that Hublot has truly mastered its rainbow of color possibilities.

Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: Polished sapphire crystal
Power Reserve: 240 hours
Strap: Transparent silicone straps
Price: $605,000

Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Materials and High Complications Set

In a spectacular take on the “piece unique,” Hublot has created a one-off “Materials and High Complications Set” with five models, each representing the brand’s singular take on material innovation and high complications. The 44 mm Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Sapphire features the manufacture’s automatic micro-rotor tourbillon movement in an entirely transparent sapphire crystal case. The 44 mm Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph in Water Blue Sapphire, which features a skeletonized monopusher chronograph tourbillon caliber, showcases the brand’s chromatic range in sapphire. The 44 mm Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Red Magic does the same, this time in tricky ceramic. The 45 mm Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Cathedral Minute Repeater in black frosted carbon fiber places two traditional complications, a monopusher chronograph and minute repeater with cathedral gongs, in a case with a wildly contemporary aesthetic. And the 43 mm Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater in Blue Texalium lends the chiming complication a unique sound thanks to a casing made of a high-performance carbon fiber-like material that allows for unique coloration. Talk about a high five!

Case Size: 43 mm, 44 mm, 45 mm
Case Material: Carbon, sapphire crystal, ceramic and carbon fiber and blue Texalium
Power Reserve: 72 hours (Water Blue Sapphire has 115 hours)
Strap: Rubber, carbon fiber and blue Texalium straps
Price: $1,099,000

Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Limited Editions

Hublot kickstarted the Swiss industry’s obsession with material experimentation in 1980, when it produced the first luxury gold watch on a natural rubber strap. The brand upped the ante on that proposition in 2005 with the Big Bang, a sporty mechanical chronograph that incorporated gold, ceramic, Kevlar, carbon, tungsten, tantalum and rubber in its design. This year, the brand looks back on 20 years of bold, risk-taking timepieces with five limited edition 43 mm Big Bang models, each combining signature details from the original Big Bang and the later Big Bang Unico.

Equipped with movements featuring gold oscillating weights engraved with the words “20 Years Hublot Big Bang” and specially engraved crowns displaying the Hublot 20th anniversary logo, the models are housed in a range of materials. The Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic ($20,800) and Big Bang 20th Anniversary King Gold Ceramic ($38,400), limited to 500 pieces and 250 pieces, respectively, offer contrasting versions of the Big Bang’s signature look. Limited to 100 pieces, the Big Bang 20th Anniversary Red Magic ($31,800) combines bright red ceramic, first achieved in 2018, with a carbon-patterned dial. The 500-piece Big Bang 20th Anniversary All Black edition ($25,200) revisits a 2006 design that pioneered the concept of “invisible visibility” in a matte a and polished black ceramic. Last but not least comes the 100-piece Big Bang 20th Anniversary Full Magic Gold edition ($40,500), housed in Hublot’s proprietary scratch-resistant 18k gold alloy.

Case Size: 43 mm
Case Material: Titanium, ceramic, King Gold and Magic Gold
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Rubber straps
Price: $20,800–$40,500

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35

In a sure sign that smaller case sizes are de riguer, IWC has downsized its 2023 Ingenieur—a remake of the Ingenieur SL Reference 1832, famously designed by Gérald Genta in 1976 (itself a remake of the original 1955 Ingenieur)—to a slim and compact 35 mm model now available in three fetching iterations: An 18k pink gold edition with a gold-colored dial on a gold bracelet, and two stainless steel versions, one bearing a black dial and the other a silver-plated dial. Common to all three models is the 47110 calibre with automatic winding, whose delicate finishing details—including circular graining, Geneva stripes, and a gold-plated oscillating weight—are visible through the open caseback.

Case Size: 35 mm
Case Material: One model in 18k pink gold and two in stainless steel
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Bracelets: Integrated 18k pink gold and stainless steel bracelets
Price: $37,500 for gold, $9,950 for steel

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC is leaning into precious materials this year with the relaunch of the Ingenieur Automatic 40 in a chic 18k pink gold edition. Reintroduced in 2023, the 40 mm model—whose two signature features are its integrated bracelet and bezel, secured to the case ring with five functional screws—features a textured black dial with a distinctive grid structure consisting of small lines and squares.

The brand is also debuting a special green dial edition of the Ingenieur Automatic 40 in steel in homage to the bespoke watch that Brad Pitt’s character, Sonny Hayes, wears in Apple TV’s forthcoming F1 The Movie, due out in June. Limited to 1,000 pieces, the limited edition is a classic example of life imitating art: In the film, Pitt wears a prop watch based on the Ingenieur SL Reference 1832 that he designed in a three-way collaboration with IWC and Cloister Watch Company in New York City, a design studio that specializes in creating bespoke timepieces from vintage watches.

Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: 18k pink gold and stainless steel for the limited green dial edition
Power Reserve: 120 hours
Strap: Integrated 18k pink gold bracelet and steel bracelet for green dial edition
Price: $46,600 for gold, $12,900 for steel limited edition

IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41

Two of IWC’s milestone creations—Gérald Genta’s 1976 Ingenieur design and the 1985 crown-operated perpetual calendar developed by Kurt Klaus—come together for the first time in the new Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41, a marvel of technical engineering encased in a sporty, comfort-focused design.

Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet
Price: $36,900

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42

The new Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic marks the first time the brand has done a piece in full ceramic, including add-on parts such as the crown and crown protector. The ergonomic properties of black zirconium oxide ceramic, which is light and comfortable to wear, are bested only by its stealthy appearance, sleek by definition.

Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Black ceramic
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Integrated black ceramic bracelet
Price: $19,500

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronographs

APXGP, the fictional F1 team at the heart of F1 The Movie, an Apple Original Film starring Brad Pitt due out this summer, has spawned a trio of IWC chronographs—the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, Pilot’s Watch Chronograph APXGP and Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 APXGP—that will appear in the film as official team watches. All three share a black and gold color scheme, but the 41 mm Performance Chrono is the only one housed in an 18k pink gold case. Vroom vroom!

Case Size: 41 mm and 43 mm
Case Material: 18k pink gold and stainless steel
Power Reserve: 46 hours
Strap: Black rubber strap
Price: $26,400 for the Performance Chronograph 41, $7,000 for the Chronograph APXGP, and $6,800 for the Chronograph 41 APXGP

IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month

The name may not roll off the tongue, but when a wristwatch has this many technically impressive functions tucked inside a handsome package, we’re not going to quibble. Not only does the complicated Ceratanium model feature a chronograph, it’s also equipped with a perpetual calendar—and not just any perpetual calendar, but a crown-operated digital version that displays the date and the month on large golden discs at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, a throwback to IWC’s 1880s heyday, when the company produced Pallweber pocket watches that displayed the hours and minutes in a digital format using single digits.

Case Size: 43 mm
Case Material: Ceratanium
Power Reserve: 68 hours
Strap: Ceratanium bracelet
Price: $81,900

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds

The Reverso, with its reversible design, has long provided a convenient way to display two time zones. The new Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds continues this trend with two offerings in stainless steel powered by the hand-wound Calibre 854: Measuring 28.3 mm in diameter by 47 mm long and just 10.34mm thick, it features a primary time display with subsidiary seconds on the obverse in classic black or vivid blue and a second time zone with a day/night indicator on the reverse in silver. Both sides feature the model family’s signature dauphine hands and applied indices, while the case’s famous Art Deco gadroons are likewise visible in both configurations.

Controlling and setting the movement is a simple matter: While the crown controls the minutes on both dials as well as the hours on the front dial, the hours on the secondary time zone are adjusted via an unobtrusive slider revealed when the case is disengaged from its carriage. Shipping with both watches are two Casa Fagliano straps: One in black or blue calf leather, and a second in grey canvas and calfskin (black dial) or blue canvas and calfskin (blue dial). Ideal for the traveling businessman, the Duoface Small Seconds is a fitting tribute to over 30 years of Duoface models.

Case Size: 28.3 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Black or blue calfskin leather; grey or blue canvas and calfskin
Price: TBD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

One can scarcely do better than a simple Reverso Monoface when searching for an ideal dress or everyday watch. But if a slightly more elevated look is your preference, then you should consider the new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. Housed in a 27.4mm x 45.6mm pink gold case and fitted to a matching pink gold Milanese bracelet, this spectacular execution of one of the world’s most iconic timepieces elevates the Reverso to a piece of wearable art. Featuring a finely grained golden-tone dial with faceted hour indices, small seconds, and a dauphine handset, it has a blank caseback that can easily be engraved with a message or design of your choice.

Powered by the brand’s hand-wound Calibre 822 movement with 42 hours of power reserve, the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds pays homage to the original 1931 model through its omissions: There are no sophisticated complications here, no extraneous ornamentation. Rather, it’s the pink gold — and especially the mesh Milanese bracelet, which appears integrated into the case due to a clever lug design — that shines both figuratively and literally in this brilliant execution. At just 7.56mm thick, it’s ideally suited to slip under a cuff, though it could do just as well worn over a shirtsleeve for a bit of sartorial playfulness.

Case Size: 27.4mm
Case Material: 18-Karat Pink gold
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Milanese link bracelet in 18k pink gold
Price: TBD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic

While Jaeger-LeCoultre has been integrating the world time system into its various collections since 1958, 2025 marks the first instance of the traveler’s complication appearing in a Reverso Tribute. An homage to the complicated 1998 Reverso Géographique, this lovely new model —available in both stainless steel as well as pink gold — provides dual dials: On the obverse is a classic blue enamel face with sub-seconds and a grande date display below 12 o’clock. Flip the case over, and the wearer is greeted with a beautifully rendered world time indicator with a city ring etched directly into stainless steel. Subtle yet intricate, it’s no doubt a design that world time inventor Louis Cottier himself would have approved of.

Powering the Reverso Tribute Geographic is a brand-new movement, the hand-wound Calibre 834, which provides several notable features: Unlike on many world timer watches, the city ring on the world time display remains static, while the 24-hour ring rotates. All this is controlled via a discrete pusher hidden on the watch head’s top flank, which is revealed when the case is removed from its housing and rotated 90 degrees. The outsize date, meanwhile, comprises two side-by-side discs (rather than overlapping discs) so that the date numerals always appear on the same plane. Choose the limited-edition pink gold version for a bit of panache, or the steel version to fly discreetly under the radar.

Case Size: 29.9mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Blue canvas and calfskin Casa Fagliano Design; blue calf leather Casa Fagliano Design
Price: TBD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

In keeping with the theme of tributes to complicated 1990s Reverso references, the fresh Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater makes use of a brand new movement, the Calibre 953, to offer a chiming complication in the guise of a duoface watch. On the watch’s obverse, a teal blue dial in grand feu enamel presents a dynamic barley-seed pattern that requires 12 hours of meticulous hand-work to create. The openworked reverse, meanwhile, displays the beautifully finished Calibre 953 amidst faceted hour indices and a handsome chemin de fer minute track. A discrete slider on the watch case controls the minute repeater function.

The Calibre 953, which includes seven patented functions, is merely the latest in a long line of chiming watches stretching back to 1870, when the maison completed its first minute repeater.

And this movement isn’t the only innovative part of the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater: The adjustable pink gold folding buckle on the black alligator leather strap alone features some 46 individual components. Completing the look of this limited edition of just 30 pieces, it’s evidence of the lengths that Jaeger-LeCoultre is willing to go to maintain constant innovation in the historic and important Reverso product family.

Case Size: 31 mm
Case Material: 18-karat Pink gold
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Strap: Black alligator leather with small-scale alligator lining 
Price: TBD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième ‘Enamel’

Think back to 2021, and you may recall a special Reverso Tribute model called the Nonantième. Released to coincide with the 90th anniversary of the Reverso, it featured a dial with a grande date, a moon phase display, and small seconds on one side, and a semi-jumping “digital” hours display with a dragging minutes display on the reverse. This year, JLC is upping the ante by launching a fresh edition of the watch with a grey sunray-brushed main dial and a beautifully enameled blue reverse dial depicting the night sky and constellations in blue lacquer with pink gold stars.

One of the most poetic Reverso models, the Reverso Tribute Nonantième ‘Enamel’ by the Calibre 826, a manually-wound movement comprising some 243 components. Specifically developed for the Nonantième model, it features a specially designed grande date complication meant to fit within the confines of a rectangular case as well a semi-jumping hours complication that saves on power reserve by gradually transitioning from one digit to the next. Available in a limited run of 90 pink gold pieces, the watch is sure to be a favorite for its special mix of several complications as well as its stunning enamel work.

Case Size: 29.9mm
Case Material: Pink gold
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Black alligator
Price: TBD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’

One of the benefits of a reversible caseback meant to protect a delicate watch crystal is that it provides a blank canvas upon which all manner of designs, inscriptions, and even miniature paintings can be executed in striking detail. To wit: Four new Reverso Tribute references see Jaeger-LeCoultre tapping its Métiers Rares atelier for expertise in miniature enamel painting, paillonnage, grand feu enamel, and guillochage in order to bring to life scenes from the Shahnameh, the Persian epic poem that includes depictions of polo. (The game, which provides the backdrop for the Reverso’s origin story, has its roots in ancient Persia.)

While the front of each watch features a grand feu enamel dial executed over a hand-guilloché base in a beautiful pastel color, the reverse features one of four reproductions of a book-sized Persian painting executed in the space of just 2 sq. cm. These are made using the paillonnage technique, wherein pieces of gold leaf are carefully placed by hand to achieve a lustrous effect. (Each caseback painting requires some 100 hours of work, limiting the series to just 10 pieces per painting.) Powered by the hand-wound Calibre 822 and shipping on simple black alligator straps, these are some of the most beautiful Reverso references of the past few years.

Case Size: 27.4 mm
Case Material: White gold
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Black alligator
Price: TBD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179

In 2023, La Grande Maison introduced the Hybris Artistica Calibre 179, a stunning, manually-wound, multi-axis tourbillon movement in a Duoface configuration with two dials to track different time zones, one of which features a 24-hour indicator. The fourth in the brand’s series of Gyrotourbillon movements, it’s now being reimagined in a white gold case in a limited run of just 10 pieces. Measuring 31mm in diameter by 51.1 long and 13.63mm thick, this tremendously complicated timepiece features all the typical Reverso design cues — rectangular shape, horizontal “gadroons,” a reversible dial — but deviates into haute horlogerie territory in the form of its multi-axis tourbillon.

Said gravity-compensation device spins upon two axes: While an inner cage rotates through 360 degrees every 16 seconds, an outer cage spins in the opposite direction once every 60 seconds, forming a small seconds indicator at the bottom of the dial. On one side of the watch, the main timekeeping dial is executed in a deep blue lacquer and surrounded by a lattice of white gold lines intersecting blue lacquer plates and bridges; on the reverse, significant skeletonization allows the wearer to view the Calibre 179’s intricate clockwork beneath. Achieved through tens of hours of painstaking handcraft, the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s enduring mastery of high watchmaking.

Case Size: 31 mm
Case Material: White gold
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Blue alligator leather
Price: TBD

Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon

Joining Laurent Ferrier’s lineup is a fresh version of the Classic Auto with a horizon-blue dial. Unlike the previous copper-toned dial Serie Atelier version, this iteration is part of the brand’s permanent collection, allowing more collectors a chance to get their hands on one. Housed in a 40 mm round stainless steel case inspired by pocket watches, it features a handsome dial whose sky-blue shade is achieved via a translucent lacquer coating applied to a base treated with a silver galvanic layer. The vertically satin-brushed finish is divided by a subtle crosshair pattern, while the minute track features a circular satin-brushed effect.

With its stamped date aperture framed by dark blue transfer, signature Assegai spear hands formed from stamped white gold, and snailed running seconds display with baton-shaped white gold hand, the dial achieves a high level of refinement inspired by classic watchmaking from the 20th century. Powered by the brand’s in-house ​​Calibre LF270.01 with micro-rotor automatic winding, 72 hours of power reserve, and exquisite finishing—the movement requires 139 separate manual-finishing operations—the Classic Auto Horizon is proof that Laurent Ferrier’s eponymous atelier is one of the best independent watchmakers in existence.

Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Taupe goat leather
Price: CHF 45,000

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

You can’t stop time, but you can pause the hour and minute hands of this watch, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, which is inspired by a model released in 2011. After 15 years of requests from clients and collectors to revive it, Hermès has finally given in, and with good reason. It’s a wearable reminder to give yourself a break, and to stop watching the clock. You do that by engaging the pusher at 9 o’clock, which brings the hour and minute hands back to 12 o’clock. The movement, which you can now see through the dial side, will keep moving until you’re ready to go back to tracking the time. With another push of the button, it’ll automatically catch up.

Case Size: 42mm
Case Material: Rose gold, white gold
Strap: Alligator, calfskin
Price: TBD

Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu

To further sell the point that time is precious, Hermès has added a Le Temps Suspendu to its Cut line, introduced in 2024. It brings a far more modern aesthetic to the suspended time idea, and works in exactly the same way. Except on this model, instead of a date complication, there’s a subdial at 4 o’clock that bears a striking resemblance to a small-seconds feature.

Instead, this circle is what Hermès’s horological creative director refers to as the “beating heart of the watch.” Its hand moves counterclockwise around the dial once every 24 seconds, whether the time is suspended or not, to remind you that the watch is still working.

Case Size: 39mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Strap: Integrated rose gold bracelet
Price: TBD

Hermès Maillon Libre

Hermès’s beloved anchor chain has appeared on countless of the brand’s products. So it makes sense that in envisioning a new way to wear a watch, the company would return to this motif. In the Maillon Libre, or free link, the resulting timepiece takes the form of a brooch or a pendant. Looking at it during the fair, we wondered if anyone out there might be brave enough to use it as a keychain.

After all, it was born of a desire to replicate the legion of past watches that were designed to be worn in multiple ways. This one, with its playful attitude and elegant craftsmanship, has “bag charm” written all over it.

Case Size: 35 mm × 23 mm
Case Material: White gold, rose gold
Movement: Quartz
Price: TBD

Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chrono

Minerva, Montblanc’s elite workshop in Villeret, Switzerland, specialized in chronographs, particulary for the military, in the 1920s and ’30s. One of them, a monopusher split second chronograph, was the inspiration for this 100-piece limited edition. Even the movement—the manually wound, monopusher, split second chronograph MB M16.31—was inspired by a Minerva chronograph caliber from 1909, along with its successor, developed in the 1930s. The lumed Arabic numerals and hands are typical vintage military in design. The burgundy dial is a nice modern touch, dark enough for contrast and an ideal color to distinguish a limited edition.

Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: Steel with white gold bezel
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Strap: Burgundy calf leather with alligator print
Price: Limited to 100 pieces, TBC

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar

Annual calendars often have very busy dials, with functions appearing in space-consuming subdials and sometimes a power reserve thrown in. The 1858 Geosphere version is refreshingly minimalist, with months spelled out along the periphery of the dial—in a surprisingly legible arrangement—and a double date window at 12 o’clock, which despite being defined by Montblanc as “large” seems discreet. A rotating globe takes the 6 o’clock spot, rimmed by a 24-hour scale. Like all of Montblanc’s most elite watches, it contains a Minerva movement, a new one, developed especially for this limited edition. The red arrow that points to the month is a tribute to the Roman goddess Minerva, who carried a red-tipped sword. The month of July is replaced by the word “Minerva” because Minerva’s trademark, with its red arrow, was registered on July 30, 1887.

Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: 18-karat lime gold, or steel with white gold bezel
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: On steel, calf leather with alligator print or stainless steel;  on gold, calf leather with alligator print or lime gold
Price: Lime gold limited to 30 pieces; Steel limited to 100 pieces

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Pop Collection

If you haven’t yet taken a ride on the stone-dial train, now may be an opportune time to board: Moser is dropping funky, colorful stone-dial versions of some of its most iconic models in Burmese jade, turquoise, coral, pink opal, lapis lazuli, and lemon chrysoprase. An extremely limited release, the collection consists of 28 pieces per color in the Endeavour Small Seconds Concept, five pieces per color for the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept, and a single Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept. In order to let the stones/color combinations do the talking, none of the watches feature indices, logos, or any other extraneous decoration.

While the Endeavour Small seconds—with its relatively straightforward dial—provides perhaps the best palette to take on these outré colorways, it’s the Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon that truly looks outrageous (and we mean this as a compliment) in, say, pink and green. Of the available stones/colors, the Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop reference 1904-0406, with its 5N red gold case,  turquoise dial, and grey alligator leather strap, is simply too cool to ignore. (It’s also a pièce unique, so if it catches your fancy, it’s best to act quickly.)

Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: 18-karat red gold
Power Reserve: 90 hours
Strap: Gray alligator leather
Price: $33,000-$385,000

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel

To a casual observer, the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds might not seem particularly avant garde—especially, by the brand’s often outré standards. But the beauty of this model lies, in part, in its simplicity: It is indeed “merely” a time-only watch with a round case and powered by an automatic movement. But a deeper look reveals a degree of dedication to handcraft and an artistic sensibility that extends well beyond its straightforward operation.

Within the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel’s pocket watch-inspired 40mm case is a breathtaking dial executed in the Grand Feu style. Consisting of a white gold base upon which a textured motif is engraved to give a hammered effect, its mesmerizing color is achieved by applying six enamel pigments in different hues and then firing the dial multiple times. The result, dubbed “Purple Haze” is nothing short of incredible, fading from a dark tone at the periphery to an electric color in the center and interrupted only by a set of leaf-shaped hands. Powered by the automatic caliber HMC 201 movement manufactured by Precision Engineering AG and paired to a handsome purple kudu leather strap, this is a watch for a discerning collector unafraid of just a touch of whimsy.

Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Purple kudu leather
Price: $29,700

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca

In 2022, Parmigiani Fleurier launched a groundbreaking new GMT design stemming from the mind of Guido Terreni, the brand’s then-newly appointed CEO. In place of a system using a fourth GMT hand or a rotating hour disc, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante uses dual hour hands, one superimposed over the second. Upon actuation of a pusher on the left case flank, one hand jumps in single-hour increments, leaving the second hand in place. This clever system allows for the rapid adjustment to a second time zone, after which the hand can be returned to its superimposed position via the push of a button embedded into the watch’s crown. Sleek and simple.

For 2025, P.F. is introducing a fresh execution of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante dubbed the “Verzasca.” Named after the emerald-green waters of the Valle Verzasca, a protected Swiss valley, it features a hand-guilloché “Grain d’Orge” pattern with white gold hands, applied indices, and a brilliant platinum bezel in a knurled pattern. Contained with a 40mm polished and satin-finished stainless steel case and paired to a matching bracelet, it’s powered by Parmigiani Fleurier’s PF051 automatic micro-rotor movement, whose superb finishing is visible via a sapphire caseback.

Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: $31,100

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel

Many perpetual calendar watches are so crowded with information—the time, day, date, month, moon phase, leap year, etc.—that they’re all but impossible to read. Not so the new Toric Quantième Perpétuel: P.F’s purposeful design uses dual coaxial displays to convey all the essential information using just two sub-registers. The result? A supremely legible watch with plenty of negative space—so much, in fact, that it takes a second (careful) glance before one realizes that it is, in fact, a QP. Available in rose gold or platinum each 50-piece limited edition is sure to be snatched up by eager collectors who value the brand’s unique design sensibilities and horological mastery.

Measuring 40.6mm in diameter and just 10.9mm tall, the Toric QP’s thick polished lugs and beautiful fluted bezel surround a handsome, hand-grained dial in powder blue (platinum) or gold tone (rose gold). The movement, which is largely constructed of rose gold and features Côtes de Fleurier finishing, is a dual-barrel design boasting 265 components, a 4 Hz beat rate, and an impressive 60-hour power reserve. Visible via a sapphire caseback, it powers dual sub-registers: Day and date are displayed at 8 o’clock, while month and leap year are shown at 4 o’clock. Add in the time, and you’ve got the makings of one of the most streamlined and elegant QPs of the past few years.

Case Size: 40.6mm
Case Material: Platinum or 18-karat rose gold 
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather
Price: $91,900-$99,400

Parmigiani Fleurier PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet

What you’re looking at is not only the first Parmigiani Fleurier PF Sport Chronograph in Cermet—an advanced material composed of ceramic and metal—but the first watch in the world whose case, bezel, crown, pushers, and pin buckle are made of the stuff. Available in two colorways (London Grey and Milano Blue), it combines the scratch-resistant composite with a high-frequency, COSC-certified automatic chronograph movement in a sporty, distinctly modern timepiece. (At 42.5mm, it’s not for the faint of wrist, but the light weight of Cermet and an included rubber strap means that it wears much more ergonomically than you might think.)

While both colorways feature a handsome, vertically-brushed background in Blackor — a 9-carat gold-nickel deposit — the London Grey reference has lighter grey chronograph totalizers, while the Milano Blue has handsome blue totalizers. Both feature 30-minute, 12-hour, and running seconds registers; an outer 1/5th-seconds track in white; and the brand’s signature skeletonized alpha handset. Flip the watch over and the FP070 high-frequency is visible beating away at 5 Hz, though the show-stopper here is actually the case: Consisting of over 72 components and requiring a full day of assembly, its satin-polished anthracite color gives the PF Sport Chronograph a distinctly modern feel.

Case Size: 42.5mm
Case Material: Cermet
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Rubber
Price: $43,100

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green

Available in several iterations, Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Skeleton is among the more sophisticated and thoughtful skeleton designs in the world of haute horlogerie. A new stainless steel edition of 50 pieces in Le Corbusier-inspired green is sure to make a new crop of devotees from those who might have been hesitant to head into the openworked waters until now: Measuring 40mm and featuring the finely sculpted lugs of the Tonda PF collection, its beautiful dial reveals the satin- and hand-finished bridges of the PF Calibre 777 automatic movement, pairing them to a matching minute track in the same verdant green shade.

Everything about the Calibre 777 is proudly on display via the dial and caseback: The openworked barrel, the white gold oscillating weight, and 187 other crucial components. Clocking in at just 3.9mm thick, the movement helps keep the watch’s thickness to an impressive 8.5mm, allowing it to easily slip under a cuff. Paired to a matching stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin-finished surfaces and a stainless steel folding clasp, the Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green has the makings of an excellent everyday watch — especially given its 100m of water resistance.

Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet  
Price: $70,300

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

Travel watches are a great idea, until you struggle with setting your second time zone. Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time presented an elegant solution to that issue when it debuted in 2015. Armed with an ingenious pusher mechanism (the one at 8 o’clock moves your local time forward an hour, the one at 10 o’clock moves it back an hour), its movement allowed you to instantly change the time without stopping the seconds hand.

The original white gold Ref. 5524G-001 from 10 years ago has now been retired, and replaced with the version you see here. It features a surprisingly legible ivory lacquer dial, with substantial indexes crafted from blackened white gold and filled with luminescent coating. The solid sword-shaped hands, also lumed, indicate local time, while the skeletonized hour hand represents home time. Both time zones have day-or-night indicators, and the self-winding 26-330 S C FUS caliber automatically changes the date to local time when you adjust the hours. If only it could track your luggage.

Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: White gold
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Strap: Khaki green composite
Price: $60,922

Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus Date

In 2023, Patek introduced a rose gold ladies’ version of its beloved Nautilus design, with a diamond-set bezel, a stunningly lacquered purple dial, and a handy date aperture. Now, it’s following up that take with a subtler—though certainly no less finely crafted—version in white gold and pale blue.

The new Ref. 7010G-013 features a bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds (weighing 0.8 carats). The choice of an azure lacquered dial, with its alternating wave pattern, is appropriate. The Nautilus is designed to look like a porthole, and now that it’s rendered in blue, you can almost imagine you’re on a ship every time you look down at your wrist. This model comes with a matching blue strap in a composite material, but it will also be available on a white gold bracelet.

Case Size: 32mm
Case Material: White gold, diamonds
Movement: Quartz
Strap: Azure blue composite
Price: $42,304

Panerai Luminor Marina 03323

If a heftier Luminor Marina is more your speed, you might try the PAM003323: Machined from the brand’s special AISI 316LVM – 1.4441 steel, its strength and corrosion resistance stem in part from its low carbon content. (The alloy consists of iron with 16-18% chromium, 11-14% nickel, and 2-3% molybdenum, for those counting.) Additional heft comes courtesy of the brand’s V-shaped steel bracelet—brushed on the interior links and polished on the outer links, it now features the Quick Length Adjustment system (which allows it to expand by up to 2mm on each side) and the PAM Click Release System for easy swapping with another bracelet or strap.

If this isn’t enough novelty, check out the PAM003323’s light blue sun-brushed dial—a Panerai first. Like its titanium cousin, it features sandwich construction, a small seconds display at 9 o’clock, a date display at 3 o’clock, and new Super-LumiNova X2 luminous material. However, for those whose taste runs more classic, the PAM00312 is offers the same feature set but with a black dial and a black alligator strap, while the PAM00313 offers the sun-brushed blue dial paired to a blue alligator strap, and the PAM00314 features a white dial with a black alligator strap. (Each strap model also includes a rubber strap in a matching color.)

Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: AISI 316LVM – 1.4441 steel
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Bracelet or alligator leather; rubber
Price: TBD

Panerai Jupiterium

And now for something completely different: Meet the Jupiterium — a Panerai timepiece utterly devoid of military dive watch overtones! Housed in a 75 cm x 86 cm glass case and weighing some 110 kg (roughly 242 lbs.), this is no wrist-worn tool watch, but rather, a magnificent planetary installation inspired by the discoveries of 17th century Italian astronomer Galileo Galilei, whose observations negated the geocentric theory and ushered in the modern era of heliocentric thinking. Within its planetarium-like confines, the Earth occupies the center of a ring of planets around which the positions of the Sun, Moon, Jupiter, and the latter’s four satellites can be observed.

Split into northern and southern hemispheres, the celestial sphere containing the planets is overlaid with constellations and rotates to display the stars as viewed from Earth. Meanwhile, a special patented retrograde function displays the perceived “backward” motion of the planets in the night sky. Powered by a manually-wound movement featuring no fewer than eight barrels vibrating at 18,000 vph, this orbital display is also joined by a single-line perpetual calendar display whose dial features an AM/PM indicator as well as a linear power reserve gauge. Coated amply with Super-LumiNova, the Jupiterium’s appeal extends well beyond Paneristi to anyone who appreciates astrology, horology, and sophisticated mechanics more broadly.

Case Size: 75 cm x 86 cm
Case Material: Black aluminum; black-painted mahogany
Power Reserve: 40 days
Price: TBD

Piaget Polo

Four new editions of the Polo make clear the model’s versatility. Sporty and complicated, the 44 mm titanium edition (not pictured) features an in-house flying tourbillon and an ultra-thin movement. For gem lovers, there’s the 42 mm white gold limited edition of 18 pieces boasting a green obsidian dial framed by a bezel set with brilliant-cut emeralds. More sober but no less striking is the white gold Polo with a blue obsidian dial. And, last but not least, the pink gold edition with a black dial on a black rubber strap. One for every season!

Case Size: 42 mm for the gold models and 44 mm for the titanium model
Case Material: Titanium, 18k white gold, 18k pink gold
Power Reserve: TBC
Strap: Rubber straps
Price: $99,000 for the titanium edition, $129,000 for the white gold model with green obsidian dial, $104,000 for the white gold model with blue obsidian dial, $32,800 for pink gold model with black dial

Piaget Altiplano

Piaget’s expertise in manufacturing thin movements is second only to its savoir-faire with color. The new Altiplano combines those specialties in a single spectacular piece. Equipped with the brand’s 1201D1 manufacture ultra-thin self-winding skeleton movement and housed in an 18k white gold case set with baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds, the watch’s most dramatic feature is its Grand feu cloisonné enamel dial, which has been extended to the case by the celebrated enamel artist Anita Porchet. Limited to just eight pieces, the model blurs the lines between science and art in spectacular fashion.

Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Power Reserve: TBC
Strap: Blue alligator leather
Price: $332,000

Piaget Polo 79

Now available in 18-karat white gold, the Piaget Polo 79, the breakout star of last year’s Watches and Wonders fair, proves that the sports-chic model, a 2024 throwback to the original gold 1979 Polo, is just as desirable encased in icy white metal.

Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Power Reserve: 44 hours
Strap: Integrated 18-karat white gold bracelet
Price: $82,500

Piaget “Andy Warhol”

Hot on the heels of the October launch of the Andy Warhol ‘Clou de Paris,’ a modern take on the 1972 Black Tie watch that became synonymous with the artist and pop culture icon, Piaget has introduced two new gem-centric versions of the piece: one bearing an opal dial framed by three concentric rows of baguette-cut and round-cut blue sapphires and the other bearing a tiger’s eye dial in a minimalist execution. “Everyone must have a fantasy,” Warhol once said. Here are two!

Case Size: 43 mm x 45 mm
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Dark blue and brown alligator straps
Price: $421,000 for the blue sapphires edition and $51,000 for the tiger’s eye

Piaget High Jewelry Cuff

Piaget’s 18-karat rose gold high jewelry cuff features engraved gold that resembles the look of snakeskin. The green enamel on the gold-engraved dial adds the perfect note of contrast.

Case Size: N/A
Case Material: 18-karat rose gold
Power Reserve: N/A
Strap: 18-karat rose gold cuff bracelet
Price: $191,160

Piaget Hidden Treasures

Half hidden behind a textured white gold cuff with a distinctive matte finish, the oval-shaped dial of the newest Hidden Treasures watch features a green opal complemented by a semi-circle of round-cut emeralds. Swoon! This is Piaget at its best.

Case Size: N/A
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Strap: 18-karat white gold cuff
Price: $189,008

Piaget Swinging Sautoir

Piaget’s new one-of-a-kind sautoir offers three spectacular looks in one. The creation begins as a dramatic tiered necklace strung with a 17-carat cushion-cut pink spinel, a 12.57-carat white opal and a pendant watch whose vivid red dial is fashioned from ruby root surrounded by yellow and white diamonds. Once you unclip the timepiece, however, you’re left with a sautoir and a cocktail watch. Now that’s the kind of swing shift we’re talking about.

Case Size: 29 mm
Case Material: 18-karat rose gold
Power Reserve: N/A
Strap: Burgundy satin strap
Price: Price upon request

Piaget Sixtie

If Piaget’s beguiling new Sixtie collection is any indication, the shaped watch renaissance is just getting started. The centerpiece of the brand’s 2025 “Play of Shapes” theme, the line comprises five new gold, steel and bicolor models, with and without diamonds, based on an asymmetrical cushion silhouette designed to evoke the liberated spirit of the 1960s. In short: These are everyday watches with extraordinary good looks.

Case Size: 29 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel, 18-karat pink gold and bicolor
Power Reserve: Quartz N/A
Strap: Stainless steel, 18-karat pink gold, and two-tone bracelets
Price: $11,500 for the steel model with diamonds, $13,400 for the pink gold and steel model, $35,200 for pink gold

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication

Thirty years after the celebrated watchmaker Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous maison, and 16 years after it introduced its first grand complication, the brand is back with a second grand comp that, much like its predecessor, features a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater, and an automatic tourbillon. Brimming with 684 components, the timepiece improves on the original in subtle but meaningful ways: The perpetual calendar, for example, features a biretrograde display, which allows the calendar’s hands to move along the semi-circle scales, before immediately returning to zero at the end of their cycle. The minute repeater plays a dissonant tritone chime known in medieval times as “the devil’s chord” or the “diabolus in musica,” but now prized for its nuance. And the tourbillon, like all Roger Dubuis examples, boasts a flying construction, in this case enclosed within a mirror-polished cage inspired by the Celtic Cross. And let’s not forget: The model, as with the brand’s entire production, is blessed with Poinçon de Genève certification, a trusted marker of origin, superior functionality and horological precision.

Case Size: 45 mm
Case Material: 18-karat pink gold
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Brown calfskin leather
Price: $691,000

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1

Just in time for Formula 1’s 75th anniversary, TAG Heuer’s F1 party rolls on this spring with the introduction of a new split-seconds chrono that uses the original 1969 Monaco, famously worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans, as a foundation for a bold aesthetic and technical update. Powered by the brand’s automatic split-seconds chronograph Calibre TH81-00, which allows for the simultaneous measurement of two separate time intervals, the model is housed in a white ceramic case featuring a white ceramic crown and pushers meant to evoke the aerodynamic lines of a high-performance racing car. The red-tinted translucent dial and chronograph counters inspired by racetrack design—underscored by a phrase, “Lights Out & Away We Go,” made famous by British commentator David Croft—lend the piece an indelible connection to F1. That’s not all: Limited to 10 pieces, the model comes in a specially designed wood lacquered box in F1’s signature white and red hues.

Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: White ceramic
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: White calfskin strap
Price: 155,000 Swiss francs (about $175,711)

TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date

Arguably the brand’s most iconic model, the new-and-improved Carrera Day-Date boasts a number of subtle but meaningful updates including a manufacture movement, the TH31; refined aesthetic details, such as striking dial colors and accent hues; and a greater focus on wearability, including a bracelet with a quick-change link system. The upgrades are evident across the collection’s six new models, each featuring distinct materials, straps and dials (black grained, black opaline with 18k rose gold accents, blue sunray-brushed, red opaline and teal sunray-brushed). Pay special attention to the collection’s talking piece, the Carrera Date Twin-Time—the color of its teal sunray-brushed dial is a nod to the racing livery of motorsport’s golden age.

Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: Steel
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Strap: Black calfskin strap, steel bracelet, steel and 18k rose gold
Price: $4,000 for black grained dial, $8,450 for two-tone model, $4,200 for blue and red dials, $4,400 for black opaline, $4,850 for teal

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph

Nine new entry-priced models join the brand’s growing Formula 1 collection, whose cutting-edge Solargraph movement uses the sun’s rays to recharge the battery (artificial light works, too)—simply expose the watch to direct sunlight for 2 minutes and you’ll have a day’s charge. Once fully charged (less than 40 hours in the sun), the watch can run for up to 10 months with no light exposure. Three models—the classic black and white, blue and red—form the core collection. The remaining six models, all limited editions, feature a new lightweight and durable material called TH-Polylight, whose color possibilities—in this case, black and red, black and yellow, blue and black, white and green, white and red, and green and red—are limitless.

Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: Steel
Power Reserve: N/A
Strap: Rubber straps, steel bracelets
Price: $1,800 for core pieces, $1,900 for limited editions

Ulysse Nardin Diver [Air]

Ulysse Nardin’s next-generation dive watch has three major flex points: it’s a skeletonized dive watch that is water-resistant to 200 meters; it’s made mostly of recycled materials; and it’s the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch. The Diver [Air] is less than half the weight of its predecessor, the Diver X Skeleton, introduced in 2021. The case material goes a long way to achieving the featherweight status: it’s made of a special carbon fiber called Nylo®-Foil, a blend of 60% Nylo® and 40% carbon fiber, making it lighter than traditional carbon fiber. It’s combined with a titanium middle case, which is what ensures the 200-meter water resistance. Nylo® is made from recycled ocean netting, and the titanium is 90% recycled. The bezel insert is made of CarbonFoil, 100% upcycled carbon fibers from IMOCA sailing yachts, chopped and compressed into a marble-like pattern. Even the escapement is recycled. It is produced from an upcycled silicon wafer supplied by Sigatec, a Swiss movement component maker. The automatic UN-374 is new, created by removing as much material as possible, and by using titanium for some of the components to keep it stable and light. UN says it can withstand an impact of 5,000 gauss. The bridges are only a few millimeters wide, and are hollowed out to save weight. The mainspring barrel was reconfigured into a flying arrangement to reduce the mass of the top bridge. It comes with two ultralight, elasticated straps in white and orange

Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: Nylo®-Foil
Power Reserve: 90 hours
Strap: Elastic Fabric
Price: $38,000

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour de L’Île

In celebration of 270 years of continuous operation, Vacheron Constantin is releasing a trio of special Les Cabinotiers pieces that pay tribute to the Tour de L’Île, the famed Genevan clocktower that once housed the maison’s workshops and first boutique. Set within 40 mm platinum and pink gold cases, each design is a pièce unique featuring an officer’s style caseback engraved with Geneva’s motto, Post Tenebras Lux or “After darkness, light.” Time-only displays without seconds hands allow each dial, which depicts the Tour de L’Île using various metiers, to shine.

The depiction of the Tour de L’Île is taken from a vintage lithograph, which was miniaturized by Vacheron Constantin artisans and reproduced within the confines of a 33.6 mm-diameter space. On one of the three pieces, it is executed in the grand feu enamel technique using pastel shades; on another, the depiction is made via guilloché and grand feu enamel. The final piece, which is contained in an 18-karat pink gold case rather than in platinum, features a matching engraved pink gold dial. Powered by the brand’s Calibre 2460 automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve, these stunning pieces are top-shelf collector’s items that bring together the very best aspects of Vacheron Constantin’s savoir faire.

Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Platinum; 18-karat pink gold
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Brown alligator leather
Price: TBD

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openface Models

Vacheron Constantin has a long history of creating openworked watches dating back all the way to 1918. Building upon that heritage, the maison is launching three special, complicated openworked models in time for its 270th anniversary within the Traditionelle collection, beginning with the Traditionnelle Retrograde Date Openface.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Retrograde Date Openface

Measuring 41mm in platinum, its case features stepped lugs, a fluted caseback, and a slender bezel, while the dial boasts a chemin de fer minute track, dauphine hands, and a partially openworked dial in 18K gold with hand-guilloché and a movement plate decorated with vertical straightening.

Set within the upper dial, a retrograde date display in blue and silver is paired to an arrow-tipped blue hand, while the time is indicated normally by a set of dauphine hands against applied hour indices on the dial periphery. Below this, the tourbillon—which takes on the aspect of a Maltese Cross, the maison’s signature—revolves courtesy of the self-winding Calibre 2162 R31/270, a 6.35mm-thick in-house movement with a 72-hour power reserve and 242 components. A limited edition of 370 pieces, the Traditionnelle Retrograde Date Openface encompasses much of what makes Vacheron Constantin a titan of haute horlogerie.

Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Dark blue alligator leather
Price: TBD

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface

The second of three new openworked models within the Traditionnelle collection, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface is housed, like the Retrograde Date Openface, in a handsome 41mm platinum case with alternating brushed and polished finishes. A brand-new caliber powers its remarkable dial, which marries openworked and hand-guilloché surfaces with a plethora of indications to excellent effect and without crowding. Transparent month and day discs at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively, offer calendar information complemented by a retrograde date display along the dial periphery and indicated by a half-moon-tipped blue hand. Meanwhile, a hyper-accurate display above 6 o’clock keeps track of the moon’s phases.

Measuring 41mm x 10.94mm thick, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface is powered by the new Calibre 2460 QPR31/270, an automatic, in-house movement with a 4 Hz beat rate and a 40-hour power reserve. A peripheral rotor gives it a thin profile of just 5.45mm, while its “Côte unique” finish and 270th-anniversary signature emblem are visible via a sapphire caseback. If kept wound, the perpetual calendar will not require manual adjustment until the year 2100—though 30m of water resistance and a blue alligator leather strap mean you’ll probably want to remove it before a dip in the pool.

Case Size: 41mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Dark blue alligator leather
Price: TBD

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

The third and final member of the new Traditionnelle trifecta is the Complete Calendar Openface. While not quite as complicated as its Perpetual Calendar cousin, it will nevertheless track the days, months, date, and phase of the Moon via the manufacture Calibre 2460 QCL/270, an automatic movement comprising 312 components. A partially openworked dial with a hand-guilloché white gold Maltese cross motif reveals a movement plate decorated with vertical straightening. A retrograde date indicator, displayed in an arc on the dial’s upper half, is joined by day and month discs at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, respectively, as well as a moon phase indicator above 6 o’clock and a leap year indicator between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Case Size: 41mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Dark blue alligator leather
Price: TBD

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

2025 marks 270 years of watchmaking at Vacheron Constantin. In celebration of this significant milestone, the brand is launching the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, a 42mm platinum QP powered by a new automatic manufacture caliber. Measuring 11.1 mm thick, its classic shape is fitted with a hand-guilloché dial in a signature motif signifying its status as a 270th-anniversary limited edition. With an outer chemin de fer minutes track, a month indicator at 12 o’clock, a date indicator at 3 o’clock, a day indicator at 9 o’clock, a leap year indicator at 1:30, and a tourbillon spinning away above 6 o’clock, one would imagine the dial would feel crowded—alas, this is not the case, as its ample size and excellent use of negative space make it distinctly legible.

Viewable via a sapphire caseback, the new Calibre 2162 QP/270 runs at a vintage-inspired 2.5 Hz in order to afford the wearer a better view of the tourbillon spinning on the dial. Calendar functions can be adjusted both clockwise and counter-clockwise, while a peripheral oscillating weight maintains a slim profile while still giving the watch a 72-hour power reserve. With its 270th anniversary engraving and “côte unique” finishing on the bridges, there’s no mistaking this 127-piece limited edition for a run-of-the-mill Vacheron—if there were even such a thing.

Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Dark blue alligator leather
Price: TBD

Van Cleef & Arpels Planétarium

Van Cleef followed up its jaw dropping one-of-a-kind Planétarium table clock with a new version this year with a base in lemon tree, ziricote, amaranth, and white holly. Its rotating stone and gem-set planets come adorned with gold ribbon with the engraved names of the planets inspired by 18th-century celestial charts. An array of mythological symbols such as shells for Venus and arrows for Mars. Mercury, for instance, comes in chalcedony surrounded by white gold and sapphires. Earth is in green jasper and two tones of sapphires.

It’s a beautiful work of art, but it’s also a wonder of engineering. Its complex mechanical movement moves each gem-set body at its actual heavenly rotation speed: Mercury completes its orbit in 88 days, Venus in 244, Earth in 365, Mars in 687, Jupiter in 11.86 years and Saturn in 29.5 years. The moon revolves around the Earth in 27.3 days. Of course, an on-demand activation sets the stars into motion whenever the owner pleases. All of this comes to life beneath a custom hand-blown glass dome.

The work done on Van Cleef’s table clocks is the kind of craftsmanship that was once made for the kings and queens of Europe—a rare relic of a time past, brought back to life for modern royalty. And while it offers plenty of bragging rights and status, the place of pride belongs to the artisans who, even in this era, have preserved the craftsmanship capable of rendering such incomparable treasures.

Size: 19.7 inches high and 66.5 in diameter
Material: Rose, white, and yellow gold, rubies, sapphires, spessartite garnets, diamonds, lapis lazuli, calcedony, pearl, jasper, jet, milky rose quartz, orange moonstone, obsidian, lemon tree, zircote, amaranth, white holly, glass, aluminum, brass, steel, black and bronze PVD and leather.
Price: One-of-a-kind, upon request

Van Cleef & Arpels Naissance de l’Amour

Designed in partnership with famed Swiss automaton maker, François Junod in his studio inthe hills of Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, this table clock is smaller than the Planètarium, but no less special. Its base is crafted from iron eye stone, known for its golden striations. A petrified palmwood bowl cradles the undulating laquered feathers that open to reveal a white gold, rose gold, and yellow gold cupid with plique-à-jour wings that emerges to the tune of a carillon melody and spins around. Cupid floats above clouds rendered in white gold, diamonds, and pink sapphires.

The Planètarium remains the covetable treasure in Van Cleef & Arpels craftsmanship and movement arsenal, but you still won’t find anything comparable to the Naissance de l’Amour being made anywhere in luxury today.

Case: TBC
Materials: Rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, iron eye, palmwood, diamonds, sapphires
Price: Upon request

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoreux

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoreux is nothing new, the first version debuted in 2010. We’ve seen the two lovers meet to kiss at midnight and noon on the gold Pont des Amoreux bridge in Paris beneath a retrograde time display before. What is new here is the extraordinary gem-setting that accompanies this complicated poetry set into motion against the backdrops of intricate grisaille enamel. This year, accompanything the bezels set with diamonds, are bracelets in a snow-setting of diamonds and sapphires. There are two in soft or intense pink for the Aube and Soirée editions and light or deep blue for the Matinée and Clair de Lune iterations. We got a sneak peek of these pieces in January and can tell you that both the mechanics and the gem-setting are works of art. To understand what Van Cleef is whipping up, you must first know that this is far more than just a pretty picture or a fun gimmick—this kind of work takes hours of craftsmanship and years of master watchmaking expertise to realize.

Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: 18-karat red gold, 18-karat white gold
Power Reserve: TBC
Strap: sapphires and diamonds
Price: Price upon request

Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas

Unlike other pieces from storied houses that are hardware inspired, the padlock design of the Cadenas—first introduced in 1935—will set you back several thousand more than its counterparts due to its intricate construction, extra heft in gold, complicated bracelet, and craftsmanship that set it a level above the rest. They are not pervasive and with good reason. This year’s Cadenas ups the stakes with its padlock decked in white diamonds, including the white gold dial, as wells as princess-cut sapphire accents.

Case Size: N/A
Case Material: 18-karat yellow gold, diamonds, and sapphires
Strap: 18-karat yellow gold bracelet
Price: Price upon request

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition

The blue 160th anniversary theme continues with a special edition of the Defy Skyline Chronograph, likewise limited to 160 pieces. A modern version of the 1969 Defy watch—a unique model with an octagonal case and multifaceted bezel—it debuted first in a three-handed configuration before expanding into chronograph territory in 2024. The 160th Anniversary Edition, constructed from blue ceramic, measures 42 mm and comes paired to a matching blue ceramic bracelet as well as an additional blue rubber strap with a twin folding clasp. Within its 12-sided bezel is set a blue dial engraved with a four-sided star motif.

Around the dial’s periphery, a fully graduated 1/100th-second scale reflects the column wheel-activated, automatic El Primero cal. 3600’s ability to time discrete events on a decimal scale. A triple-register chronograph display and a date window at 4:30 are complemented by a set of luminescent sword hands, applied luminescent indices, and a central, red-tipped 1/10th seconds chronograph hand. Beating at 5Hz and offering 60 hours of power reserve, this unique sport watch is an excellent way for Zenith diehards to celebrate the brand’s 160th anniversary in style.

Case Size: 42mm
Case Material: Blue ceramic
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Blue ceramic bracelet; blue rubber
Price: $23,800

Zenith Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition

The final entry in the Zenith 160th Anniversary Edition blue enamel trifecta is the Chronomaster Sport, the brand’s Daytona-esque triple-register chronograph introduced back in 2021. Likewise executed in blue ceramic, its 41 mm case features an engraved bezel with a 1/10th-seconds track in white printing. Dual pump pushers and a prominent crown allow one to control the watch’s triple-register chronograph, which is artfully displayed on the dial via dark blue, dark grey, and light grey totalizers. A 4:30 date window matches the dial’s blue background, while applied indices and a luminescent sword handset completes the vintage El Primero-inspired look.

Paired to a blue ceramic multi-link bracelet and also shipping with a blue rubber strap, this sporty chronograph isn’t all about its arresting looks—water resistant to 100m, its hi-frequency movement with column wheel actuation and vertical clutch allows for the timing of 1/10th-second events; the recording of elapsed seconds; and the recording of 60 minutes. A special “160th Anniversary” oscillating weight, meanwhile—visible via an exhibition caseback—serves as a reminder of its celebratory (and limited) nature. Throw it on the included rubber strap and you’ve got yourself the perfect summer watch.

Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: Blue ceramic
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Blue ceramic bracelet; blue rubber
Price: $22,700

Zenith G.F.J.

For much of the 20th century, submitting a watch movement for observatory trials was one of the best ways to advertise a watch brand’s chronometric bona fides. Only the most precise and well made calibers achieved top results at these competitions, and Zenith—which began submissions in 1897—achieved a staggering 2,333 of them. The new G.F.J, named in honor of the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, honors that legacy by reviving one of the maison’s most famed observatory movements, the cal. 135, for use in a spectacular new dress watch. Limited to 160 pieces in honor of Zenith’s 160th birthday, it blends several distinct metiers in an attractive, singular whole.

Measuring 39.15 mm in a round platinum case with a stepped bezel and lugs and a notched crown, it features a three-part dial composed of a blue lapis lazuli center disc; an outer ring in a brick guilloché pattern with faceted, white gold applied hour indices and a minute track of 40 white gold beads; and mother-of-pearl sub-seconds dial above 6 o’clock. Finished with white gold hands, the display is powered by the hand-wound cal. 135, a movement that achieved five consecutive first prizes in the wristwatch category at the Neuchatel Observatory between 1950 and 1954. Revived by the brand with the aid of master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, it’s been recreated for the momentous occasion of the brand’s 16th decade of continuous operation.

Case Size: 39.15 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Dark blue alligator; black calfskin leather; blue Saffiano calfskin leather; optional platinum bracelet
Price: $49,900

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition

When Georges Favre-Jacot looked up at the night sky in the mid-19th century, he was inspired by the stars to call his fledgling brand “Zenith,” indicating his appetite for reaching the highest echelons of chronometric perfection. 160 years later, his brand has indeed scaled the watch world heights. In celebration of this tremendous milestone, the Le Locke-based maison is releasing a series of blue ceramic versions of its most beloved modern collections. The Pilot Big Date Flyback, a recent addition to the brand’s oeuvre that was introduced in 2023, now looks more sporting than ever in its night sky-themed livery.

Registered by Favre-Jacot as early as 1888 in French, the “Pilote” collection has a history almost as long as Zenith itself. The 2023 Pilot Big Date Flyback is a robust, modern take on the idea of a pilot’s chronograph: Housed in a 42.5mm blue ceramic case with dual rectangular titanium pushers and a titanium crown, it features a striking, matching blue dial in a corrugated pattern with large, luminescent Arabic indices and a dual-register chronograph layout. An outsize date at 6 o’clock — as well as flyback functionality — are provided courtesy of the automatic Zenith El Primero cal. 3652 movement.

Case Size: 42.5mm
Case Material: Blue ceramic
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Blue Cordura ribber; white Cordura 
Price: $15,500