Welcome To The Age Of U.E.S: Ultra Expensive Skin
Fashion month is a wrap and there seems to be only one beauty trend worth noting. From Pat McGrath’s ‘Alaïa Nudes’ in New York to the barely done models that stalked the runways of Ahluwalia, JW Anderson and Erdem in London to Salvatore Ferragamo’s fresh faced girls in Milan, super-luxe, blemish free, lit-from-within skin was everywhere.
Skin has long been the beauty industry’s ultimate quiet luxury. It might not be as bold as an arched skinny brow (hi, Marni) or as eye-catching as a statement lip but it's infinitely more difficult to pull off. Perfect skin implies wealth: not just access to the best products and treatments but also access to the kind of lifestyle which allows you to eat anti-inflammatory foods, do plenty of exercise and not expose yourself to pollutants.
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Most models and influencers wax lyrical about staying hydrated and using a good SPF, but the reality is that super-luxe skin requires the investment of both time and cash in a way that’s rarely accessible to most mere mortals.
Don’t just take it from me, though, here’s an expert’s deep dive into exactly what it takes (and how much it actually costs) to get luxury skin.
Diet and lifestyle
Dr Wassim Taktouk is the founder of one of London’s most whispered about aesthetic clinics; known for his barely-there approach, his work graces the faces of some of London’s chicest women (not that you’d know it). 'I think the first thing to say is that to get that ultra-luxurious skin, you do need to take an inside-out approach,' he explains. 'Diet will absolutely be a factor - we know, for instance, that things which inflame your gut, can cause symptoms in the face.'
Dr Taktouk points out that most of his clients, and particularly those who’re in the public eye or who are very focused on perfecting their overall wellbeing will be following a diet tailored to them. 'They’re likely to have a nutritionist, they’ve probably done food intolerance tests and might be getting specialised anti-inflammatory meals delivered - so, you know, these things are costly.'
US-based dietician Destini Moody (Top Nutrition Coaching) agrees that each of us will be sensitive to different foods and stressors but points out that there are some basics that even those who don’t have access to a personal nutritionist might do well to remember.
'The main thing to take note of when talking about nutrition and skin health is antioxidants,' she says. A diet rich in antioxidants will help fight the effects of free radicals - everyday pollutants which damage our cells and can lead to the kind of systemic inflammation that can cause skin ageing. 'Though the effects of the inflammation caused by free radicals are often internal and thus invisible, chronic inflammation can also manifest in poor skin health, particularly in the form of acne.'
As well as antioxidant-rich foods (more on which to try in a second), she recommends adding foods rich in Vitamin E to our diet. 'Vitamin E functions as both a vitamin and an antioxidant, and plays a role in keeping the skin hydrated (hence why many lip balm brands add Vitamin E), strengthening the skin cells for a firm appearance, and helping to protect the skin from the ageing effects of UV light.'
Moody recommends getting a serving of fatty fish or walnuts each day. 'Both foods are a rich source of Omega-3s, a fatty acid that’s also a powerful antioxidant that can only be obtained from food. So, if you don’t eat enough omega-3s, you could end up deficient and studies show that omega-3 deficiencies result in duller looking skin,' she says. And add a portion of almonds in there too : 'approximately 50% of your daily vitamin E needs can be met by just one ounce of almonds, which is a typical serving'. Tomatoes, meanwhile, are 'famously rich in lycopene. Lycopene has recently been shown to be particularly powerful at getting rid of free radicals in the skin as well as helping to improve skin thickness and density, according to recent science.'
Dr Christine Hall works alongside Dr Taktouk at his Knightsbridge clinic and has developed a cult following for her pioneering glass skin treatments. She adds that a healthy gut microbiome may also be key to maintaining good skin. 'Emerging research shows that a healthy balance of gut bacteria contributes to many key functions for health,' she says, 'including decreasing inflammation, fighting free radicals and improving a host of age-related conditions. Beneficial strains of bacteria can be found in foods such as yoghurt, miso, kimchi, sauerkraut, kefir and green olives (to really get the benefits, try adding a portion of one of these each meal) but they can also be taken in the form of supplements.' Her favourite? Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Youth Biome: 'it targets signs of ageing and supports the gut, containing beneficial bacteria and Vitamin C.'
Of course, as Dr Taktouk explains, 'if you’re taking a purely "lifestyle changes" approach to getting that super-luxe skin then you need to remember, firstly that genetics plays a part (i.e. sometimes skin will just do what it wants to do) and secondly, it’s not just about adding good things in; caffeine needs to go, alcohol needs to go. Anything that's inflammatory needs to go.'
Those who can commit to living a pure (if somewhat dull), and antioxidant- / probiotic-rich life could expect to see changes to their skin in about a month.
Skincare
'If we’re talking about getting that luxury skin - dewy, hydrated, healthy looking - a good skincare routine is a must but I don’t think a ten step process is necessary,' says Dr Mo Hamed aka Dr Motox who is often begins preparing celebrity clients for London Fashion Week months in advance.
'A cleanse, vitamin c serum and SPF for the morning and a cleanse, retinal and night moisturiser in the evening should do it. These are the golden trios.' He favours basic brands, topped up with regular facials (more on these in a second).
For the retinals, I recommend Medik8 to my clients because they have a really nice ladder, starting with super low strength and allowing people to work their way up so that their skin doesn’t react badly. Certainly at the highest strength, you’ll get a glowy finish.'
He points out, though, that most of the clients he prepares for red carpets are usually on the prescription medication Tretinoin; 'a super, super strong vitamin A derivative which does give great results, particularly for things like acne-scarred skin.' At around £150 a tube (which needs to be replaced every couple of months), it’s not cheap, and clearly not for younger skin or retinal newbies. 'But for those looking for a photo-finish, it’s very effective.'
For the facials, he says, a basic cleansing treatment will clear out the pores and leave skin looking refreshed but for a more definitive glow-up both microneedling ('it causes controlled trauma and the healing process afterwards leads to increased collagen production and leaves the skin texture really improved') and chemical peels will deliver results. 'Most people who’re focused on their skin might do a facial every four to six weeks.'
For Dr Taktouk, the most effective skincare purchase is 'one great antioxidant serum'. He recommends C E Ferulic Serum by SkinCeuticals which contains 15% of pure vitamin C. 'It costs £165 and I recommend it for daily use - so it isn’t cheap, but it's working to neutralise a lot of free radical damage to your skin, which is incredibly useful, especially if you’re living in an area with high pollution.'
When it comes to skincare, most of the experts I speak to argue for a less is more approach because clients tend to get more bang for their buck with more invasive treatments. 'I think as long as you have the golden trio,' says Dr Motox, 'that should be a good baseline.'
Treatments, tweakments, injectables
All the experts that I speak to agree that in the pursuit of luxury skin, Botox is a non-negotiable - 'I can guarantee that anyone you see at Fashion Week, or at any of these red carpet events,' says Dr Motox, 'has had Botox. The ones that don't look like they've had Botox have had Botox' - though many of the experts note that a frozen, super-shiny look doesn’t fit the luxury brief.
Dr Hall, for instance, uses a ‘microtox’ technique, where, she explains, 'less concentrated doses [of Botox] are injected much more superficially into the skin or at most, into the superficial part of the muscle. Instead of the actions being in the body of the muscle, the injections inhibit the most superficial fibres of the muscle which attach to the dermis – the layer of the skin which contains blood vessels, hair follicles and sweat glands.'
This works in two ways: it stops the skin from being pulled by the muscles, reducing lines and wrinkles, and it 'also reduces the activity of the glands responsible for the production of sweat and sebum making it a useful treatment of oily and acne prone skin.' It has also been shown to reduce the appearance and size of pores. It’s been widely adopted in Seoul for more than ten years now - though has only recently started making its way to British shores.
Dr Motox includes an injectable hyaluronic acid like Profhilo in his ‘non-negotiables’ for clients looking to perfect their skin. As he explains: 'I think of it as an injectable moisturiser, though research show it also prompts you to produce a ton of collagen and elastin, which then over a period of a couple of months smooths and lifts the surface texture of the skin.'
Polynucleotides are the recent viral hit when it comes to skin boosters. 'I think constantly stimulating your skin, encouraging it to improve its collagen production - which is what polynucleotides do - is very effective,' says Dr Taktouk. The injectable biostimulator also neutralises free radicals and increases blood flow to the skin.
The cost of luxury skin
Dr Taktouk does a quick bit of maths: 'Okay, so Botox four times a year - you’re talking around £1,000. Then skin boosters, maybe every six months, about £1,000 a year. A good antioxidant, £165, every three months. Radio frequency to tighten the skin, that's going to be up to £2,000 for a course, depending on where you go - I could keep going but I think in total you might be spending between £5,000 and £6,000 a year if you were going to do it properly - and that doesn’t factor in things like sessions with a nutritionist.'
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