A Wellness-Obsessed Editor’s Guide To Honeymooning Around South America In A Month
I know what you’re thinking. Backpacking around South America isn’t the first honeymoon activity that comes to mind for newlyweds when the likes of a two-week break staying in a Maldivian island hut or Balinese white-sand beaches and the volcanic calderas of Lombok are on the table. But for those in search of epic adventures, rich cultural learnings, and tantalising cuisine, there’s no place quite like it.
Made up of 12 sovereign states, two dependent territories, and one internal territory, South America’s terrain constitutes all of the world’s major climate zones, from the warm tropical climates of Brazil and Peru to the cold temperatures of the Andean region and Patagonia. Home to the most biodiverse continents on earth (think everything from llamas and jaguars to anacondas and piranha), it’s estimated that Brazil alone contains 10% of the Earth’s species – David Attenborough, eat your heart out.
As a result of its diverse climate and terrain, it’s the perfect location for wellness seekers who enjoy spending their days on spectacular trekking routes through the likes of the Fitz Roy mountain range and the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, horseriding through Patagonia, partying to live music in Buenos Aires, tasting fresh ceviche in Peru, and partaking in yoga amid the sandy backdrop of Chile’s Atacama desert.
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South America is a cacophony of unparalleled sounds, sights and smells, and the ideal destination for those, like me, who like to mix wellness, sight-seeing, and a good dose of relaxation on holiday.
Here's a month-long plan of how to travel around South America:
Week 1: Cusco, Peru
If you know your rain jackets from your windbreakers, you’ll likely be contemplating whether to start or end your South America trip in Peru or Patagonia, given the cinema-worthy vistas both hiking destinations have to offer. As an avid hiker, I’d suggest kicking off your journey in Peru so that you can get the eye-watering altitude sickness (it hits most people and is short-lived and harmless if you follow medical advice) out of the way first and prepare your legs for four weeks of serious physical challenges. At 3,399m altitude, Cusco – located in the Peruvian Andes – is one of the most culturally rich and beautiful places to start an active-packed honeymoon, following a relatively short (1hr 30mins) internal flight from the capital of Lima.
With a handful of luxury hotels to choose from in Cusco, Antigua Casona Son Blas is one of the most in-demand boutique hotels which is located in the artistic and cultural heart of the city in the area of San Blas. And it’s not hard to see why. This hotel is home away from home, and its welcoming environment permeates its walls, whether it’s the attentive staff on hand, or the hot coco leaf-infused tea and hot water bottle left in your room during the daily turn-down when temperatures drop at night.
To acclimatise to the altitude, visitors are encouraged to take their first few days in the city relatively easy given symptoms can include fatigue, nausea, and issues sleeping. Depending on how you feel, we’d advise a short – and slow – walk through the city’s bustling streets up to Sancris Restobar Mirador for chocolate-filled crêpes and coffee, or sauntering down to Cappuccino Cusco Café and sipping on hot chocolates while overlooking the main square (Plaza Mayor de Cusco). If you’re feeling peckish, no stop is better than lunch at KUSYKAY Peruvian Craft Food, overlooking Inglesia del Triunfo (ask for a table on the balcony to take in the ambiance). Other top spots include Café Dwasi for classic Peruvian coffee and live jazz music at Casa Palacio.
When it comes to dining in Cusco, the majority of tourists will encourage you to try the local ceviche – a citrus-infused raw seafood dish popularised in Peru, and for good reason. As opposed to the UK’s version, Peruvian ceviche is incredibly fresh, tangy, and comes at a fraction of the price. Start the night with an aperitif of Pisco Sour at Los Perros bar in town, before making your way over to the traditional Peruvian restaurant Yaku and dine on generous portions of andina salad, alpaca skewers, and traditional lime-scented mashed potato topped with petit trout ceviche. Closer to ‘home’ (Antigua Casona Son Blas) is the top-rated Piedra & Sal restaurant, where dishes such as Ceviche Nikkei, alpaca with potato gnocchi, ají de gallina tacos, and Cusco Sours – a twist on the Peruvian but made with the Cusco coca leaf – are popular and utterly delicious.
The Amazon and Puerto Maldonado
The Amazon rainforest, also known as the Amazon jungle or Amazonia, extends all the way into the likes of Colombia, Peru, Ecuado, Bolivia, Brazil, and is the single largest remaining tropical rainforest in the world. While there are numerous ways to visit and explore the Amazon, one of the easiest ways to do this from Cusco is to take a two-hour flight to Puerto Maldonado and book a three-night stay at the all-inclusive eco-rainforest lodge Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica.
Located in a 42,000-acre private concession adjacent to the Tambopata National Reserve and in the Madre de Dios forest, the lodge is prime for a White Lotus filming destination, given it is the height of luxury, exclusivity and comfort (without the pretentiousness of many five-star choices).
Each cabana features its own siesta lounge, complete with hammocks, while some (including the superior double room) feature an outdoor pool and shower where you can wash in moonlight as you hear the cries of howler monkeys just metres away. During a stay at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, guests are spoilt with the range of tours on offer, all hosted by expert guides (many of whom grew up in the local area) who can spot caimans in the dead of night, identify a species of monkey from its cry, and mimic the call of a scarlet macaw. On the first night, you’ll be invited to jump in a river boat and enjoy a spot of cayman spotting at twilight, before waking to an early morning alarm and visiting Reserva Nacional Tambopata to see everything from howler monkeys to river otters and, if you’re lucky (depending how you look at it), a cayman floating in the distance. Other visits on offer include a visit to the organic farm, canopy walks through the trees, and a twilight walk around the grounds to see tarantulas, frogs and more (do you dare to turn your torch lights off and take in the sounds of the active rainforest while stood in darkness?). During ‘downtime’, guests can enjoy the local amenities of the spa (think foot therapies and deeptissue massages), hot coffees and teas in the dining room, and Pisco Sour sundowners before dinner.
Machu Picchu
The 15th-century Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, located in the Eastern Cordillera of southern Peru, is one of the most famous sites to visit during a stay in South America. Measuring an astonishing 2,430m on a mountain ridge, it’s not for the faint-hearted, which is why many tourists choose to visit the site over a couple of days – whether it’s the 43-mile Inca Trail Route over four days or combined with an evening stopover at Ollantaytambo, a nearby town and Inca archaeological site with a railway station that takes you to Machu Picchu.
If you’re on a tight schedule, in our opinion Intrepid offers the best one-day trip to Machu Picchu. Following a carriage ride in a glass-roofed Vistadome train, featuring panoramic windows overlooking the awe-inspiring landscape, you’ll arrive at Machu Picchu Pueblo Station and find yourselves greeted by an Intrepid guide, who will join you on the short bus ride to the start of the Machu Picchu site and provide information all about the ancient city, which is believed to have been a royal estate or sacred religious site. Other nearby visits worth a trip are the Sacred Valley tour, the Moray Inca Ruins Salt mines, and lunch at Ñusta Restobar overlooking the town of Pisac.
Week 2: Bolivia and the Salt Flats
Bolivia is one of South America's most cultural diverse countries with a landscape which includes mountains, rainforest, lush valleys, dormant volcanoes and famous salt flats. Before heading to Uyuni, where many start their visit of the Salt Flats, it’s worth staying a night in the Bolivian capital of La Paz and paying for a walking tour to visit the witches’ markets and the outskirts of the infamous San Pedro prison, before catching a night bus to Uyuni to start the Salt Flat tour.
On arrival in Uyuni, if you choose the travel operator Howlanders' three-day tour (we did our research and found this to be the most reasonable and well reviewed) you be grouped into a car of five fellow travellers who will be your companions for the next three days. During the trip you’ll visit the Train Cemetery (Cementerio de Trenes) in the Uyuni desert, cactus island (Isla Incahuasi) before retiring to a salt-made hotel for the night. The following day, you’ll wake up to visit Laguna Colorada, a vast colourful lake where you’ll see hundreds of flamingos, followed by a day trip to Sol de Mañana to see the Geysers and bath in the Polques Hot Springs.
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
On arrival in San Pedro de Atacama, the small Chilean town and commune in El Loa Province, you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’ve been transported into the Outback of Australia and staying in a hippy commune, so laidback is the surfer-style vibe of the desert-surrounded terrain. After a busy few days on Bolivia's Salt Flats, you’ll be in need of some R&R, which is why Atacama Loft & Glamp is the ideal place to rest your head for the night. The camp features individual bungalows – otherwise known as glamping tents – all decked out with double beds and an outside seating area. There’s a restaurant on-site, and two fully-equipped kitchens, as well as hot water, a swimming pool, bike hire and yoga classes on demand.
Following a short bike ride into town, you’ll be surprised at the numerous bars and restaurants to choose from. We suggest dining at La Picada Del Indio before retiring for the night for a long slumber, and waking for a bike ride and grabbing breakfast at Franchuteria, a French bakery haven situated offering giant pain au chocolats, croissants and hefty sandwiches. For lunch, make your way to Tierra Atacama, South America's first solar-powered hotel and an all-inclusive sanctuary for those in search of a modern yet luxurious desert hotel. The hotel offers treatments at its Uma Spa, as well as an al fresco hot tub, daily yoga, an infinity pool overlooking the Andes mountains, and an unparalleled dining experience offering traditional Chilean specialities (think Peruvian corn and meat) and delectable wines and cocktails (we suggest you order the Rica Rica Sour cocktail).
Week 3: Mendoza
No honeymoon is complete without a celebratory toast, which is why Mendoza is a must-visit for those in search of quality Argentinian wine (on a budget). After a short flight from San Pedro de Atacama’s Calama Airport, you’ll arrive in Mendoza and should head your way straight to La Calma Ecolodge – an isolated lodge located on the outskirts of Mendoza in the mountainous region of Potrerillos.
La Calma Ecolodge is, by far, one of the most outstanding secrets Mendoza keeps close to its chest. Leo, who owns the lodge, is keen to invite guests to enjoy the tranquility of the region, which overlooks the precordillera and Andes mountain range, and is located in a restricted area, just 85km from the town of Mendoza. Designed with nature in mind, the lodge is environmentally-friendly and embraces its surroundings, from the stone and earthy-hued interiors, to the outside fire and solar-panels.
In the morning, we suggest hiking into the precordillera before making your way down to the lake for a private swim, and returning to the lodge for a six-course wine pairing with cheese and Tomahawk steaks. The next day, head into Mendoza and go on a self-guided bike tour of the vineyards and wineries. With some hires starting from as little as 7,000 Argentinian pesos and glasses (125ml) of wine costing approximately 3,000 pesos, there’s no better way of getting some exercise in while you taste the best tipples the region has to offer. When it comes to a city-centre accommodation, book into Gorilla Hostel, complete with its very own pool, to meet some fellow travellers.
Buenos Aires
From Mendoza, we suggest you jump on a flight to Buenos Aires and head straight to Viajero Hostel to dump your bags before setting off on a half-day cycling tour of the city, taking in the sights of Puerto Madero and La Boca as your learn about the area from live commentary from your guide and taste the Chilean caffeine-rich infused herbal drink of choice, mate. Other must-sees include a night out at La Bomba de Tiempo (live drumming music) on a Monday), the national library (La Biblioteca Nacional Del Maestros), the bars of Palermo and a dinner of steak at the Buenos Aires favourite, Calden del soho Grill.
Week 4: El Calafate
No trip to Patagonia is complete without a stay at El Calafate, a town near the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in the Argentine province of Santa Cruz. It’s the first port of call for those looking to visit Los Glaciares National Park, which is home to the Perito Moreno Glacier. Prices and demand varies for the trip, which is why it’s advisable to book on early onto one of the numerous tours on offer (the entrance ticket and the boat trip), like those from Howlanders. The best time of year to visit is between November and March.
The boat trip takes you to the north wall of the glacier (measuring around 70m above the lake), where shards of ice regularly break off (known as ‘calvin’) in intervals and crash into the ice-blue waters below (the noise is spectacular). Visitors can also walk across the glacier, kayak the icy waters, and walk through the national park along the boardwalks. After a day on the glacier, retire for the night in El Calafate and hit up the Buenos Cruces Pasta Bar, which offers up some of the tastiest pasta dishes on offer in the whole of South America, or Mi Rancho Restaurant Patagónico for more traditional Argentinian cuisine.
El Chalten
When it’s time to pack up, head straight to the bus station and board a bus to El Chalten for a few days of serious hiking. El Chaltén is located in the small mountain village of the Santa Cruz Province in Argentina and is the place to visit if you love nature and are a thrill-seeker in search of walking, climbing and more. One your first day, start with one of the most classic hikes to Laguna Torre, also known as the Cerro Torre trek given its views of the glacier-topped Cerro Torre lake. The route measures around 11 miles and takes on average five hours to complete, so it’s not for the faint-hearted.
Fuel up on juicy burgers at Fresco bar on burgers in the heart of the town, and wake up early the following day for one the most iconic and unforgettable hikes to Laguna de Los Tres – a 24km or 15-mile day hike. Broken up with miradors (lookout points) along the way, the Mirador Fitz Roy (Cerro Fitz Roy mountain is the logo of the Patagonia outdoor brand), Rió de Las Vueltas mirador and lagoon are the most standout moments of the trip.
The next day, make your way to one of the most luxurious and special lodges to exist on earth. Located 37 km away from El Chalten, and 15 km away from The Glaciers National Park lies a 1700-acres private property (or a haven, as we light to call it) known as Aguas Arriba. Situated on the bank of Lago del Desierto, the only way to get to the property is by a 15-minute boat ride along the lake and, once there, you’ll immediately feel at home.
With just five rooms, guests are given their own guide for their stay, who take you on magical walks through the forest, where you’ll learn about the flora and fauna of Argentina, as well as opportunities to try out yoga in the on-site domed studio in the forest), fly fishing and more. The family-like feel and luxury of the property is unparalleled, thanks to its owners Pato and Ivor, who have an impeccable eye for detail and hospitality, as well as the attentive staff (who outnumber guests) who are on hand to provide everything your heart desires, from a rich glass of Malbec and hot water bottles, to a blanket on the veranda and a whistle stop history lesson in the local area and its geography. It’s a true gem in the heart of the mountains and an unforgettable experience you have to at least indulge in once in your life.
Torres del Paine
As your trip nears its end, it’s time to take a bus further down towards the end of the earth (quite literally) and spend your final nights in Puerto Natales, which is close to Torres del Paine, a national park made up of mountains, glaciers and lakes in the southern part of Chile’s Patagonia. Known as a hiker’s paradise, it’s most famous for its 31-mile W trek (the route takes the shape of the letter) which can take up to five days to complete. Day trips are also possible, which sees visitors cross Lake Pehoé and hike into the Francés Valley up to the snow-capped mountains of Torres del Paine.
When it comes to accommodation, The Singular Patagonia in Puerto Bories is an experience more so than a hotel, made up of a museum/hotel that envelops guests in its history and surroundings. The hotel is made up of modern and old buildings, from the reception – located in the old meat packing plant – to the outdoor glass-fronted pool. If you have time off from a busy day of hikes, it’s worth renting bikes and heading into town and up to Horse Connection Patagonia for the afternoon. Here, owner Lynn will teach you all about horses – from grooming and feeding, to how to saddle up and build a connection – before embarking on a ride.
Santiago
Finish your trip with a visit to Santiago, the capital and largest city of Chile surrounded by the snow-capped Andes. Book into Hotel Magnolia, a boutique hotel in the heart of the city, within a 10-minute walk of Santa Lucia Hill and Palacio de la Moneda. The building might have been built in the 1920s but has since been renovated, incorporating its art deco heritage with modern injections of glass, metal and natural woods. The hotel not only has a gym and wine cellar, but a roof terrace which is primed for sundowners after a day of sightseeing.
Start your visit with a trip up the funicular railway on the slope of San Cristóbal Hill overlooking the city. Barrio Italia is one of the coolest parts of the city and a hipster haven. The area takes its name from its beginning, when Italian immigrant craftsmen arrived to the area in the 19th century and has flourished into a hub for creatives filled with laid-back vintage shops, craft stores, antique furniture shops, boutique restaurants and cafes (hit up Ruca Bar for gin cocktails and al fresco tapas). Think of it as New York’s Williamsburg meets Miami’s Wynwood art district.
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