The White-Dial Omega Moonwatch Has Officially Landed

Welcome to Dialed In, Esquire's column bringing you horological happenings and the most essential news from the watch world.

When it comes to watches, seemingly small changes can be a huge deal—just think about how much fans freak out about a single millimeter adjustment in case size, and you've got the idea. So, when Daniel Craig showed up at the Planet Omega exhibition in New York this past November wearing a watch that signaled not a minor shift but a major update to one of the most iconic chronographs of all time, speculation ramped up.

The watch in question was, of course, the Omega Speedmaster Professional, aka the Moonwatch. But this wasn't any old Moonwatch. Because there on the wrist of the recently retired Mr. Bond was a gleaming, unmistakable circle of bright white. To understand why that could stir deep emotions in the hearts of collectors the world over, we've got to rewind just a bit.

Officially approved by NASA for use in space in 1965, the Speedmaster Professional is the first watch to be worn on the moon (hence the nickname) and an enduring design that's garnered a cult-like following in the decades since. The best-known version—the OG Moonwatch, if you will—takes its cues from the very first Speedmaster chronograph, which was released in 1957 and, in pursuit of maximum legibility, features a black dial with white markers. There have been white-dial versions over the years, but we're talking about special editions and limited runs. Finding one, let alone owning one, would be a task in and of itself.

Now, though, Omega is putting a white-dial Speedy in the mainline offering. And it's not just a white dial—it's lacquered, too. For those keeping track at home, this is the first time that glossy finish has ever been used on a Moonwatch. Small changes? Big changes? It depends on who you ask. But for dedicated watch fans—of which the Speedmaster has plenty; it even has its own #SpeedyTuesday hashtag—this is nothing short of seismic.

As for the rest of the watch? It's got exactly what those dedicated fans are going to be looking for. A steel case, 42mm diameter, and sapphire cystal. A vintage-inspired, five-link bracelet (plus leather and rubber straps). An anodized aluminum bezel with the beloved "dot over ninety" tachymeter scale. And a Caliber 3861, manual-wound movement keeping time inside. For the real heads, though, there's an extra bit of detail that delves back into Moonwatch lore. The red "Speedmaster" on the dial is a reference to the Alaska I prototype from 1969. The design—an attempt to create a watch perfectly calibrated to the rigors of space exploration—used a white dial and a distinctive red protective case. It's a subtle nod, but one that no Speedmaster enthusiast would miss.

The best news for said enthusiasts is that this isn't a limited run, and you don't have to be Daniel Craig-level famous to get your hands on a white-dial Speedy. Initial excitement will very likely render it tough to get ahold for a while, but patient collectors who yearn for a the new watch should all be able to acquire one—eventually. But maybe it's all a matter of taking the long view. After all, it's been 55 years since the Moonwatch first earned its nickname during the Apollo 11 mission. What's a little extra waiting when compared with that kind of history?

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