Willy Chavarria's Paris Fashion Week Debut Made LGBTQ+ Rights Front and Center
Courtesy of Willy Chavarria
The dark and alluring atmosphere of a church is familiar to many people; it's a source of hope and gratitude for some, for others, churches can be traumatic — namely those in the queer community. When Willy Chavarria made its first Paris Fashion Week appearance on Friday at the American Cathedral Episcopal Church, he boldly showcased a sweatshirt dedicated to lifting the voices of the LGBTQ+ community and proved that in this church, everyone belongs.
I first met with Chavarria in his Greenpoint, Brooklyn studio, surrounded by racks of his forthcoming A/W 2025 collection entitled “Tarantula”. The pieces ranged from suits made of crushed velvet to oversized jackets and a bodysuit t-shirt that's as original as it is practical. Chavarria previewed many of the pieces to me, which would later be worn by models of all genders strutting between pews of onlookers in Paris. And while the designer had a massive stage to showcase his collection, he also used it as an opportunity to make a statement.
Chavarria partnered with dating app company Tinder and the Human Rights Campaign (HRC) to create a sweatshirt dedicated to amplifying LGBTQ+ voices and standing beside the community as anti-LGBQT+ legislation continues to be introduced in droves. All proceeds from the crewneck will go directly to the HRC.
“It started with thinking about a lot of the darkness that is in the world today,” Chavarria told Teen Vogue. “And I love that phrase that Kamala Harris said, ‘Only when it is dark enough, can you see the stars.'”
Chavarria credits the works of Italian painter Caravaggio for inspiring the deep blues and blacks against contrasting light featured in his newest runway line, along with the message behind his art.
"[The paintings are] often violent and dramatic, but there's this really beautiful light shining through. And I think that, in this time, the light that shines through is this pride in identity," he continued.
The idea of the sweatshirt came together to shed light on a marginalized community that has historically been the backbone of intertwined with the fashion world and beyond. The black crewneck, designed in part with Gustavo Garcia-Villa, reads, “How We Love Is Who We Are,” in Old English-style font. In a press release for “Tarantula”, the idea for the crewneck came as a response to the more than 570 anti-LGBTQ+ bills introduced globally last year and was a way to champion “love, equality and the fundamental rights of every global citizen.”
"The identity of so many people right now is under attack through increased violence, increased racism, and actual politics that are implementing systems to roll back the rights of people like immigrants, women, LGBTQ people," Chavarria said. “It's just a really beautiful visual campaign in support of LGBTQ rights.”
He continued: “Tinder is actually a platform that celebrates all sorts of love, and it has become a platform for people to build communities in areas of the world where they are really under oppression and unable to share their identities publicly.”
At the finale of the show, Chavarria walked slowly down the runway wearing the crewneck himself. The powerful moment was magnified by the words of Bishop Mariann Edger Budde playing on the loudspeakers over music. Budde led the Inaugural Prayer Service following President Trump's inauguration on Tuesday and directly addressed him as she asked Trump to “have mercy upon the people in our country who are scared now."
“There are gay, lesbian, and transgender children in Democratic, Republican, and Independent families, some who fear for their lives,” the sermon sounded as Chavarria made his way through the church.
The symbolic moment tied the entire evening together, proving that no law can silence someone's true identity. Aside from the crewneck, Chavarria bought billboards and displays throughout Paris to boost the same notion. “[It's just really the promotion of love and dignity in this really beautiful, elegant, artistic way.”
Willy Chavarria's show was one of the hottest seats in town, as models included Paloma Elsesser, Bad Bunny's brother Bernie Martínez Ocasio, rapper Tokischa, Becky G, and more. J Balvin surprised attendees with a performance amongst the models, and a string quartet played off and on.
This isn't the first time Chavarria has used his runway shows to make a statement. Last season, the designer's show, “América” was a celebration of his Mexican-American heritage and a nod to the farm workers of America, with reworked uniforms featuring cargo pockets and long keychains. He also partnered with the ACLU and again walked out during the finale wearing a shirt with the nonprofit logo.
Tinder's own mission has focused on causes that relate to their company, including LGBTQ+ and reproductive rights. The dating app company has worked with designers in the past to raise awareness for a cause — including partnering with Area to create a “Bans Off Our Bodies” shirt that debuted at New York Fashion Week in September. The collaboration included a large donation to Planned Parenthood and invited several volunteers to watch the runway show. Much like reproductive rights, Tinder's other focus is on LGBTQ+ rights.
When working with Chavarria, Tinder's Global Chief Marketing Officer Melissa Hobley told Teen Vogue that the designer was curious about their intentions.
"We had the chance to talk to him about connection and about loneliness and about the LGBTQ community and how important it was to have an experience for them and to take a stand," Hobley said. “Part of our job at Tinder is to understand the rights that are at stake for the LGBTQ community."
She continued: “Human Rights Campaign is a leader in that space and we've had a long relationship with them and supported a lot of their initiatives… It was a really easy, fun, and creative process with [Willy].”
As for Chavarria, he has always planted one foot firmly in social justice through his work, and he doesn't plan on stopping anytime soon. In 2017, the designer made a statement about putting Mexican immigrants in cages at the border, while those close to him tried to warn him against doing so.
“A lot of people tried to persuade me not to do it because nobody wants to lose customers. But it turned out to do the opposite,” he said. “It actually grew my business, and people connected with the messaging because it communicated with people on a much more personal level than just looking cool.”
With that in mind and as the second Trump administration officially begins, Chavarria is sticking with the idea of community. “Whether we're LGBTQ+ ourselves or allies or mothers or daughters or friends, we're all, essentially, one people. So, when any of us is under attack, we need to protect one another.”
Originally Appeared on Teen Vogue
Want more style stories from Teen Vogue? Check these out:
