Yes, The Cows Really Make A Difference When Making Gruyère—Here's How
Gruyère is a Swiss cheese known for its flavor and how well it melts—which is why you'll often find it on toasted sandwiches or atop French onion soup. It originated in the Gruyères region of Switzerland. This is where I headed to find out exactly how Gruyère is made and whether the local Gruyères cows make a true difference.
Does Gruyère Have To Be Made In Gruyères?
Swiss cheese has to be made in Switzerland, right? Unlike Champagne, where the grapes have to be specifically grown in that region, Gruyère cheese technically doesn’t have that same rule. Gruyère can be made in other parts of the world as long as it follows the correct process.
If you want to know if your Gruyère is the real deal make sure it’s labeled Le Gruyère AOP. That AOP will tell you it has met all of the required qualifications with the highest standards and was made the exact same way as every wedge that came before it. That's what I use for my cheese boards, cheese puffs, and mac and cheese. And I would never skip it in spinach artichoke dip.
The Cows Really Make The Difference
Before we talk about the cheesemaking process, let’s talk about the cows, which were the highlight of the trip for me. Outside amongst the rolling hills, you’ll hear the chime of bells ringing. The cows are adorned with giant bells around their necks so that they don’t get lost and the farmers always know where they are. It might just be the sweetest thing I’ve ever heard. Decidedly, if I were a cow, living in Switzerland would be an easy decision.
A specific type of Gruyère is Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP. It’s made in the same manner as regular Le Gruyère AOP, but specifically from cows that are higher up in the mountains. This means they are feeding on different types of grass and flowers, which gives the cheese a different taste. It's typically a little funkier with a stronger flavor that can be slightly floral, especially from the batches made in the earlier months when there are more flowers on the mountains. I noticed it was also much creamier and smoother than regular Le Gruyère AOP.
Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP is only produced from May to late September while it's warm enough for the cows to be at a higher altitude. Since the production window is shorter, there are fewer cheese makers making this specific type of cheese. This makes it more expensive, but well worth the price.
The cheesemaker I visited said working at his own creamery in the mountains is his own definition of freedom. He loves the relationship between nature and animals and how that affects the cheese he produces. His son works alongside him to do every step of the process by hand. And, yes, they both admitted to having a favorite cow when I asked.
So, How Is Gruyère Made?
All of the cows are within 12 miles of the creameries their milk will be sent to, making the whole production extremely local. Growing up, I lived near Oklahoma’s greatest treasure: Braum’s. The milk and dairy products from Braum's are shipped within a three hour radius of the factory. But a short 12 miles to Swiss creameries takes things to a new level. The milk is delivered twice a day immediately after the cows have been milked and being so close in distance allows this to be possible.
Once the milk gets dropped off at the creamery, it gets put straight to work. The streamlined process is like watching art. I’m fairly certain they could do it with their eyes closed.
When I arrived at the creamery in the morning, workers were already heating up the first batch of milk in large copper cauldrons. When the milk reaches the correct temperature, it starts to thicken, which is when blades are attached to cut the curds. The cheese makers prefer to go in with their hands to check the consistency and size of the curds. They know exactly what they are looking for by sight and feel and are able to notice moment they reach the right consistency.
Once it's ready, the product is transferred to round molds, where the cheese is shaped into the iconic wheel we all love. Pressure is then applied to it for about 24 hours. During this time the pressure is gradually increased and separates the whey from the curds. I was able to try some of the curds at this point and because there was no salt added yet, it had almost no taste and was just squeaky pieces of cheese. The whey that is separated out can be used in a variety of ways, but is often fed to pigs on local farms.
The wheels are then labeled with the date and creamery code. Using this identification, it's my mission to find the wedge of cheese I witnessed being made—I just have to wait a minimum of 5 months and possibly up to 2 years to spot one!
The salt bath comes next! This is when the cheese finally starts to get some flavor. As requirement for making Le Gruyère AOP, the water in the salt bath is never changed. It's highly regulated and maintained, but some of the oldest salt baths are 85 years old. And when a new creamery is built, they borrow some of the salt bath water from an older creamery to use and start their own.
After the salt bath the curing process starts. This is when the wheels are finally taken to cheese caves and they begin to mature. The wheels will sit on the shelves, being rotated and brushed with salt periodically for a minimum of 5 months and up to 24 months. The more mature the cheese is, the more flavor and depth it has. The younger cheeses are softer and creamier whereas the older ones start to become a bit more crumblier and will have the crystalized salt pieces in them—my favorite part of a bite of cheese! After the aging process they are finally able to be shipped out and sent to stores around the globe.
At every creamery and dairy farm I was lucky enough to visit, I was left with the same impression of how much they care and love this tradition of making Le Gruyère AOP. Many in the industry work for a family-owned farm or come from a line of cheesemakers, which makes it a tight knit community. From cow to packaged product, they love to see the continuing tradition of Le Gruyère AOP. It made me want to pack up my belongings and become a cheese apprentice in Switzerland.
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