The 11 Coolest New Watches That Dropped in October
This month, we’ve already seen some pretty wild watches hit the market. A. Lange & Söhne celebrated the Lange 1’s 30th birthday with four new additions, Omega re-released its first watch to ever go to space, and Patek Philippe rocked the watch world with its first new collection in 25 years. But that’s not all. A slew of brands dropped some killer watches in October.
What seems to characterize this round-up is an emphasis on complexity (see Panerai, TAG Heuer and Urwerk) and avant-gardism (see Zenith, Girard-Perragaux, and Chopard). Predictably, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin have dropped time-and-date dress watches, the only truly subdued members of the bunch. What this general move toward more daring design says about the end of 2024 is that this continues to be an unsteady year for watches, both financially and aesthetically. Patek’s Cubitus is downright divisive—jarring really—and that square watches seems to embody the new tone of Q4. But, back in April, we were talking about how subdued the releases were at Watches & Wonders, especially Rolex.
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It will be interesting to see how the end of the year shapes up, and until next month here are the best watches that dropped in October.
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Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion
Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, the dynamic duo behind Urwerk, have become known for their out of this world timepieces since the brand’s inception in 1997. Many of their unconventional designs have been built around the brand’s satellite hours complication, which first debuted in 2003. In the past 20 years, we’ve seen the mechanism take many forms from a lightweight titanium version to a fully blinged out one boasting 400 diamonds to one with a small planetarium on the dial. Now, with the latest incarnation of the satellite hours, we get Urwerk’s most ambitious evolution yet. The new UR-150 Scorpion offers a reworked satellite complication system replacing the brand’s classic design based on Maltese crosses with a cam system. The model is available in two limited edition variations (50 pieces each).
CHF 88,000 (approximately $102,000) – CHF 89,000 (approximately $103,000)
Zenith Defy Skyline Ceramic Americas
Zenith’s Defy collection traces its roots back to 1969, but the modern interpretation of the classic design didn’t come to life until 2017. From the moment the model re-entered the brand’s catalog, it became a platform for Zenith’s renewed emphasis on advanced technology and materials. The first model to emerge under the new banner was the Defy El Primero 21, featuring Zenith’s signature high-beat 36,000 vph movement loaded with a separate gear train for a 1/100th chronograph function running at 360,000 vph. Since then, we’ve seen the Defy in countless permutations: skeletonized, revivals, gem set, tourbillons, and rainbow. The latest addition once again presents a unique design, specifically for the American market. It offers a lightweight ceramic build featuring a striking two-tone dial with a sunray-finish in metallic green and gold.
$15,500
H. Moser & Cie. x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax
Both Moser and Massena LAB have become known for their collaborations. Both brands have teamed up with a diverse array of partners over the years. We’ve seen Moser create mashups with everyone from streetwear brands to luxury menswear outposts. Massena LAB has also embarked on its fair share of collabs, often leaning more firmly in the watch space with independents like Raúl Pagès and Sylvain Pinaud. In just the past couple months, both watchmakers unveiled some pretty stellar co-created timepieces: Moser with Studi0 Underdog and Massena LAB with newcomer Albishorn. It comes as no surprise the duo would ultimately find their way to teaming up together for the H. Moser & Cie. x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax. Our own digital watch editor Allen Farmelo spent some time test driving the model and the results are in: it exceeds expectations.
$27,600
Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold
When you think of Girard-Perregaux, you likely conjure an image of a model like its beloved Laureato—a classic luxury sport watch born out of the era of the luxury sport watch in 1975 featuring all the hallmark features like an octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. In the past 49 years, we’ve seen GP adapt the model in countless iterations, from ones with tinted sapphire crystal cases to a green ceramic version designed in collaboration with the luxury sports car manufacturer Aston Martin. But earlier this year, we saw the brand adapt the design in titanium for the first time. Continuing with that spirit, we now have one of the brand’s more unconventional models enter the catalog in the same lightweight material. This is the Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold. The Casquette also hails from the 1970s with a boxy case equipped with an innovative black-and-red LED display at one end that would show the hours, minutes, seconds, day and date at the press of a button. The original model only had a short run of just two years but was revived back in 2022 with a bold matte black design. Now, we get a more refined titanium version with 18-karat yellow gold accents.
$4,960
Vacheron Constantin 20th Anniversary Patrimony
Vacheron first introduced its Patrimony collection back in 2004, and it became an instant classic. The collection fully epitomizes the quintessential dress watch, whether rendered in platinum or other precious metals. With 2024 marking the monumental 20th anniversary of the beloved line, Vacheron has released a slew of new variants. At Watches & Wonders, we saw two new additions to the line including one with highly accessible sweet spot sizing at 39 mm with just 7.7 mm thickness as well as a more complicated version offering a moon phase complication and retrograde date. This month, the Maison continues the 20th anniversary celebration with a new limited edition collaboration with French designer Ora ïto, a Vacheron Constantin “One of Not Many” talent.
$35,300
Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow
Over the years, Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami has collaborated with every type of brand under the sun from sneakers to Uno cards. Back in 2021, he finally put his smiling flower design on a Swiss watch for the first time, teaming up with Hublot. Since then, the duo has continued to create a slew of co-designed timepieces, from a tourbillon version for the bi-annual Only Watch auction to one made entirely of sapphire. Now, the pair has unveiled its thirteenth and final unique piece along with matching NFT artworks to be auctioned at Phillips “TOKI: Watch Auction” on November 22. In a full circle moment, the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow combines the 45 mm black ceramic case of the first-ever Hublot X Takashi Murakami Classic Fusion series with the rainbow petals of the Sapphire Rainbow edition, incorporating 384 gemstones onto the petals to form a perfect color gradient with different types of rubies, sapphires, amethysts, tsavorites and topaz stones.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Date Blue Gray Dial
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s prowess in thin calibers has been at the brand’s core since it’s early days. In 2008, the Maison introduced the Master collection to showcase its capabilities when it comes to classic complications. Four years later in 2012, they added the Master Ultra-Thin to the lineup, upping the ante with complicated timepieces that maintain the slim profile of a dress watch while offering the same complex functionality the Master line was known for. Earlier in 2024, we saw the introduction of the model within the collection offering a new dial and upgraded movement boasting nearly double the power reserve without changing the size and thickness of the movement. Now, the brand goes back to basics with a new colorway in the standard date version of the iconic model featuring a handsome blue gray dial.
$9,550
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads
Czapek traces its roots back to 1845, when Francois Czapek founded his namesake brand. Revived in 2015, it took less than a decade for the company to reestablished itself in the industry thanks to its blend of traditional horological craft with modern movement architecture. By 2018, the Maison had released its third model and first chronograph, the Faubourg de Cracovie. The watch was notably powered by Vaucher’s sophisticated high-frequency column-wheel movement and featured an atypical design compared to most chronographs with a guilloche dial. With the latest iteration of the Faubourg de Cracovie, Czapek gives the model a slightly sportier feel with a Crossroads guilloche pattern framed by a bold tachymeter scale around the periphery.
CHF 36,000 (approximately $41,500)
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna
TAG Heuer’s Carrera has become an icon ever since its initial launch in 1963. The beloved model has taken countless forms from collaborations with Porsche to a bright and bold pink version. Through each iteration one thing has remained true for the model: its deep ties to racing. The famed race car driver Ayrton Senna was one of many famous wearers to sport the legendary model over the years, and now, ahead of the new Netflix series called Senna premiering in November that stars TAG Heuer ambassador, Gabriel Leone, the brand has created something special. This is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna. This model features a number of tributes to the racer. It features a carbon bezel, inscribed with “Senna” and a tachymeter scale reaching up to 400 km/h, symbolizing the speed and precision that defined Senna’s career. The nine o’clock subdial prominently features Senna’s branding, while the counter appears in a bold yellow, akin to the one of the Senna logo. Turning the watch over, the caseback reveals an iconic image of Senna with his helmet, provided by the SennaBrand.
CHF 37,000 (approximately $42,645)
Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech
The history of Panerai’s Radiomir traces back to 1916 when the brand first filed the patent for the luminescent radium-based substance. It would take another couple decades for the brand to create the first prototypes utilizing the glowing material in a new collection aptly named Radiomir. Eventually, in light of the dangers of radium, Panerai revamped its lume with a new material called Luminor. However, the Radiomir collection has remained a pillar of the brand’s catalog. The line has largely remained true to its dive and tool watch roots with an oversized utilitarian construction. Yet, there have been some iterations over the years that are a bit more elevated, like the newest addition: the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech. As the name suggests, the highlight of this variant is its gold build. In addition, it boasts an automatic mechanical movement that took over five years to develop with a high-complication segment allowing for adjustments to the day, date, month, and leap year all through the crown.
$46,200
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike ‘Dia de los Muertos’
For the past several years, Chopard has wowed us with its yearly release of timepieces honoring Día de los Muertos (the Day of the Dead). On each occasion, the Swiss watchmaker has found a new and innovative way to incorporate the iconic Calavera skull symbol into its designs. This year is no different. With the holiday on the horizon, Chopard has just unveiled the L.U.C Full Strike ‘Dia de los Muertos.’ The latest Day of the Dead model features a hand-engraved ethical 18-karat yellow gold case framing the iconic dial with a colorful Calatrava skull rendered in miniature stone marquetry. The watch is equal parts form and function with Chopard’s patented monobloc sapphire gong, which integrates the gongs and resonance chamber into a single sapphire crystal, acting as a resonator and producing a clear sound similar to a fork hitting a glass.
