From Acne to Anti-Aging, 5 Game-Changing Uses for Glycolic Acid

Given the love affair most dermatologists have with glycolic acid, it may be worth your time to learn more about this powerhouse exfoliating ingredient, known as the smallest molecular sized alpha hydroxy acid (AHA).

“Glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane and has been used in skin care since the 1970s, when dermatologists began incorporating it into chemical peels and acne treatments,” says Nicole Ruth, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Weiser Skin. “It can deeply penetrate the skin and is highly effective at dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, leading to smoother, brighter skin and improved texture.”

Over time, it’s become a staple ingredient in cleansers, toners, serums, and creams for those looking for skin-renewing properties. “Glycolic acid is suitable for most skin types, but it’s especially beneficial for those with oily and acne-prone skin, as it helps to clear pores and prevent breakouts,” says Dr. Ruth. It’s also a sought-after anti-ager. “While not at the level of retinol, glycolic acid can help boost collagen production and fibroblast proliferation,” says Anar Mikailov, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Skintensive.

Individuals with very sensitive skin or conditions such as rosacea or eczema, should use glycolic acid cautiously, as it can cause irritation, and photosensitivity, making the skin more prone to sun damage, especially in higher concentrations. “But nowadays, glycolic acid is formulated in low enough concentrations so that it’s tolerable yet still effective,” says Dr. Mikailov.

Ahead, dermatologists spill the tea on this super effective ingredient.

Meet Our Expert

·     Teresa Song, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical.

·     Anar Mikailov, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Skintensive.

·     Chris Tomassian, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Dermatology Collective.

·     Nicole Ruth, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Weiser Skin.

Skin Care Benefits and Uses

Glycolic acid is known for its ability to improve skin texture, fade hyperpigmentation, unclog pores, smooth wrinkles, and stimulate collagen.

Improves Skin Texture

By exfoliating away dead skin cells, glycolic acid allows for gentle shedding, revealing fresh, smoother, and more even-toned skin underneath. “It works by removing the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells together, leaving you with a more radiant complexion,” says Dr. Mikailov.

Fades Hyperpigmentation

“By exfoliating the top layer of skin, glycolic acid gradually reduces hyperpigmentation like sunspots and melasma,” says Chris Tomassian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Dermatology Collective. “It does so by increasing cell turnover and inhibiting melanin production.”

Controls Acne and Pore Congestion

Glycolic acid can help unclog pores, prevent breakouts, and reduce the appearance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. “It improves acne by clearing out clogged pores and reducing excess oil production,” says Teresa Song, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical. “Due to its exfoliative properties, glycolic acid leads to less skin build up in the pores, which reduces breakouts. And as an antibacterial, it may potentially reduce acne causing bacteria.”

Decreases Fine Lines and Wrinkles

“Glycolic acid can also help boost collagen production and fibroblast proliferation,” says Dr. Mikailov. “Studies have shown that glycolic acid increases the thickness of the epidermis and collagen density, which helps decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”

Stimulate Collagen

“Glycolic acid can increase collagen production, which helps reduce fine lines and improve skin elasticity,” says Dr. Ruth. “It acts as a chemical exfoliant, removing dead skin cells and triggering the skin’s natural repair process, which in turn activates fibroblasts—the cells responsible for collagen synthesis—to produce more collagen within the dermal layer of the skin to help improve skin elasticity and firmness.”

How to Use

Glycolic acid has multiple uses and can be incorporated into both facial and body care routines. “It’s a great addition to anyone’s skin-care routine when used in moderation, typically two to three times a week,” says Dr. Tomassian. Experts caution mixing glycolic acid with other active ingredients such as vitamin C, retinoids, and BHAs such as salicylic acid. “Retinoids, for example, speed up cell turnover. If you mix it with other exfoliating products, you can strip your skin barrier, leading to redness, irritation, and overall worse-looking skin,” says Dr. Tomassian.

Where to Apply

From head to toe, there are plenty of places on the body that can benefit from glycolic acid.

On the Face

Glycolic acid is commonly used in facial serums, toners, cleansers, and peels to help with hyperpigmentation, acne, fine lines, and skin texture. It can also be found in exfoliating pads or exfoliating rinse-off masks. “It’s important to pair it with soothing and hydrating ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides, and sea buckthorn extract to counteract any potential irritation and to wear SPF daily when utilizing glycolic acid,” says Dr. Mikailov.

"Cleansers have the least amount of contact time on the skin and are usually the gentlest,” says Dr. Song. “Start with a low concentration of around 5-10% in a face wash, toner, or serum, used two to three times a week and increase the frequency as tolerated. When applying at night, layer the skin care from thinnest to thickest in consistency—toner, serum, lotion, cream.” Follow up with a hydrating moisturizer and be sure to apply a sunscreen as the skin can become more sun sensitive with the use of glycolic acids.

On the Body

Skin refining glycolic acid can be found in body lotions, body washes, body pads, toners, or serums. These products are often recommended for those suffering from keratosis pilaris, a common skin condition that appears as rough, red, or brown bumps around the hair follicles. “When applied daily to the arms and legs, glycolic acid gently exfoliates any rough skin on areas like the elbows and knees, providing much-needed hydration and helping soften the skin’s appearance over time,” says Dr. Tomassian. The key is to keep these areas consistently moisturized after you’ve exfoliated. Additionally, glycolic acid works well on areas prone to ingrown hairs. “By exfoliating regularly, glycolic acid prevents hairs from curling under the skin, reducing the likelihood of ingrown hairs and keeping the skin smooth,” says Dr. Tomassian. It can also be used to remove self-tanner by exfoliating the top layer of skin.

Under the Arms

Glycolic acid can help balance underarm pH, preventing odor by reducing bacterial growth. “It also gently exfoliates the skin to prevent dead skin cell and bacteria build up and help with underarm discoloration,” says Dr. Song. Look for a fragrance-free concentration of around 5% to avoid irritation, and one that includes soothing ingredients like aloe vera and glycerin to lessen irritation.” If you notice irritation, discontinue use.

On Elbows and Knees

“Some skin darkening of the elbows and knees is normal, but it can be worsened with friction leading to excess skin formation,” says Dr. Tomassian. “A glycolic acid lotion can thin out the excess skin and lighten the area.”

On the Scalp

A glycolic acid serum can be applied to the scalp to gently exfoliate dry flakes and larger plaques of psoriasis. “It can also balance oil production, promote a healthier scalp environment, and act as a complement to anti-fungal treatments for those dealing with seborrheic dermatitis,” says Dr. Mikailov.

On the Feet

Glycolic acid can be used to exfoliate calluses, cracked heels and rough skin on the feet. “Follow up with a pumice stone for deeper exfoliation,” suggests Dr. Song.

On the Cuticles

Glycolic acid can be a useful tool for softening and smoothing your cuticles by gently exfoliating away dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover. “Applying glycolic acid to the cuticles helps keep them soft, smooth, and free of rough, dry patches,” says Dr. Ruth, who recommends a nighttime application with a lotion or cream. “For most people, a once or twice a week application is a safe starting point. This frequency allows your cuticles to adjust without risking irritation. If your skin tolerates it well, you might gradually increase the frequency.”

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