AHAs vs. BHAs: Which Chemical Exfoliant Is Best for Your Skin Type?

If your skincare routine is devoted to maintaining clear, glowing skin, exfoliation is likely already on your radar. And while there is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to achieving a smoother complexion, a chemical exfoliant containing either AHA or BHA just might help you get there.

Exfoliating products are most commonly thought of as gritty face masks or face washes that scrub off dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. Certain acids, however, can chemically dissolve the buildup—no scrubbing required. The most popular among them? AHA and BHA, both of which can be found in serums, peel pads, and masks.

Before you start your product hunt, remember that AHA and BHA aren't interchangeable for the simple reason that they treat different skin issues. That said, they often appear together in skincare formulas for certain skin issues such as acne. All of which begs the question: which one is right for you? Ahead, we tapped two top dermatologists to help us understand how the two chemical exfoliants work, what makes them different, and how to implement them in your own skincare routine.

Meet Our Expert

• Dr. Melanie Palm is a California-based board-certified dermatologist at Art of Skin MD.

• Dr. Sheila Farhang is an Arizona-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of Avant Dermatology.

What are AHAs?

AHAs are short for alpha-hydroxy acids. These natural plant- and animal-derived acids are commonly used to treat dry skin, aging skin, and acne. "Commonly used AHAs in skincare are lactic and glycolic acids," says dermatologist Melanie Palm, M.D.

With age, our skin tends to accumulate more dead skin cells as our natural skin cell cycle slows down. Unfortunately, this can make your skin look dull. Dr. Palm continues: "AHAs are primarily used to help exfoliate, which works by removing the top layers of dead skin cells to make way for new skin cell generation."

AHAs can be found in many types of skincare products, including serums, toners, masks, and moisturizers. "AHAs have gained popularity in skincare due to their ability to target the superficial layer of skin, therefore helping with skin texture, tone, hyperpigmentation, acne, the appearance of fine lines, and more," Dr. Palm says.

What are BHAs?

BHAs stand for beta-hydroxy acids. These chemical exfoliants break down oil and dead skin cells that clog pores. "The most common BHA is salicylic acid," says dermatologist Sheila Farhang, M.D. "This ingredient is best used for oily and acne-prone skin." Willow bark extract is a natural ingredient that converts itself into salicylic acid and is commonly used in skincare formulas.

Salicylic acid is known to fight bacteria, which is why it's also used as a treatment for warts. As far as skincare products go, BHAs are commonly found in spot treatments, pimple patches, serums, toners, chemical peels, masks, and even some foundation formulas that cater to oily and acne-prone skin.

AHAs vs. BHAs: What's the Difference?

While AHAs and BHAs are both chemical exfoliants, they have different properties that produce different effects.

"One of the biggest distinctions between the two is AHAs clear the excess dead skin buildup and reduce the concentration of calcium ions in the skin, whereas BHAs have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties while cutting through the oil in the pores and cause less irritation," Dr. Palm explains.

In addition, BHAs are follicutropic, which means they better penetrate the pore down the hair follicle to where acne starts. This is why they're the preferred chemical exfoliant for breakouts.

However, because both AHAs and BHAs make the skin more susceptible to sun damage, it's important to wear sunscreen with at least SPF 30 for adequate protection.

Side Effects

As with many active ingredients in skincare, AHAs do have possible side effects. If you're new to using chemical exfoliants, Dr. Palm says you may experience mild itching or irritation as you get used to the product.

While many people fare well with AHAs, those with inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis may find the acids too irritating. If you experience any of these skin conditions, Dr. Palm recommends consulting a dermatologist and patch-testing a product before applying it to your face.

BHAs have the potential to be drying and irritating. Dr. Farhang says to avoid using them on open skin, active infection, or a known allergy. It's also wise to avoid mixing them with other exfoliants, like retinoids.

Can you combine AHAs and BHAs?

While AHAs are typically used to treat signs of aging and discoloration because they're more aggressive exfoliators and BHAs are popular for acne-prone skin because of their antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, they can be combined.

"A combination of the two could work in some cases, but it's important to not overdo it as this could lead to compromising your skin barrier, resulting in irritation, redness, and other complications," says Dr. Palm.

Dr. Farhang suggests exfoliating once and week. "Choosing between really comes down to your skin type, sensitivity, and skin goals," she says.

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