‘I Am Not Interested in Brands or Trends’: Philippe Starck on Innovation and the Power of Functional Dressing
Stone Island is more than just a clothing label—it’s a community. Authenticity isn’t something you can fake or buy—it’s either there or not, and for Stone Island, it’s woven into the brand’s DNA. The iconic Italian label embodies a unique union of utility and style and an innate cool factor that’s earned it a loyal following since its inception in the 1980s. A lifestyle brand (though primarily known for its outerwear and innovative textiles), Stone Island often resonates with subcultures rooted in individuality while maintaining a niche appeal and respect from style-conscious guys and the broader fashion world. Stone Island doesn’t seek acceptance per se; it just does what it does, and it works.
Stone Island garments are instantly recognizable by the iconic compass badge on the sleeve, a subtle IYKYK status symbol. My own Stone Island M65 field jacket has been a trusted travel companion for years. Its abundance of pockets and stowaway hood makes it incredibly practical, and simply put, it just fits and drapes best —and I own more parkas and field jackets than I care to admit. With their latest Ghost Collection drop (so named for the “disappearing” tonal garment badges) and a new campaign featuring the likes of superfan Liam Gallagher and starchitect Philippe Starck, Stone Island continues to innovate while staying true to its roots—pulling off a balancing act that few brands can.
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Stone Island 101
When Stone Island first entered the market in the 1980s, it brought something new to the table. While most Italian luxury brands were focused on tailoring, Stone Island introduced utilitarian elements inspired by military designs—a fusion of form and function that not only looked stylish but also performed under harsh conditions. The brand quickly became known for its innovative textiles, such as Raso Gommato (a satin weave cotton of military origin with the application of a polyurethane) in 1983, thermosensitive fabric in 1987, and rubber wool that same year.
Many of the garments are washed, garment dyed, coated, or printed, with an almost alchemical approach to design and creativity. These textiles are distinctive in that, aside from the iconic arm badge, you can often tell a piece is Stone Island just by the hand or washed-out hue. As the brand puts it, they encompass “lab and life,” constantly reimagining and innovating their fabrics for enhanced technical performance. While new Stone Island pieces debut each season, many are subtly tweaked versions of original designs, reflecting a curated and forward-thinking approach that their dedicated community celebrates. The is not a brand that rests on its laurels.
Clothing Meets Culture
Initially, Stone Island’s devoted following emerged in Italy, thanks to the Paninari—a group of Italian youth known for their bold style and love for American culture. They embraced the brand’s luxury sportswear as a rebellious, fashion-forward statement. By the mid-80s, Stone Island crossed over to the UK, where it was adopted by the football subculture known as “casuals.” These fans would spend their hard-earned money on a coveted Stone Island piece and wear it with pride. Many notorious hooligan firms incorporated the brand into their match-day uniforms, making Stone Island a symbol of rebellious style and fierce loyalty. While the hooligan set wasn’t always known for peace, their loyalty to the brand was unquestionable. What sets Stone Island apart is that, although the relationship is symbiotic, the culture chooses the brand. Its devoted base not only remains but also helps inform the brand’s evolution as it continues to resonate with new subcultures. From the Paninari making Stone Island cool in Milan to the Casuals doing the same in the UK, and later Hypebeasts and streetwear enthusiasts bringing that factor to the U.S., Stone Island has always had a counterculture that supports it.
Musicians have also played a pivotal role in shaping Stone Island’s cultural legacy, from Oasis dominating the ’90s Britpop scene to today’s American hip-hop artists “rocking the badge.” With Oasis’s recent resurgence, it’s likely that interest in the brand will rise. Having spent much of my career in menswear, I’ve seen how music and fashion go hand in hand—and how both are cyclical. The Manchester baggy look of Britpop is back, with its hazy blend of ’60s mod and Stone Roses-inspired parkas, and Liam Gallagher has worn Stone Island in his unique way, just as the brand would intend. Authentic style like that never fades, and with hip-hop icons like Drake and Travis Scott rocking the brand, Stone Island continues to appeal to those who appreciate wearable and stylish utility.
The Ghost Collection
The Stone Island Ghost Collection is a recurring yet distinct sub-collection in the brand’s history, consisting of elevated pieces that appear every few seasons. Based on the concept of camouflage, Ghost pieces are entirely monochromatic, including the iconic Stone Island badge, which is designed in a special tone-on-tone version to blend with the garment. They are distinguished by their rich, robust textiles and tonal colorways, often featuring new fabrics. Prices for Ghost garments can reach upwards of $7,000, especially for suede pieces, but their elevated design and superior materials make them highly coveted. Once released, these pieces disappear quickly—fittingly, like a ghost—and become sought-after collectibles in the world of vintage Stone Island. This aligns with how Gen Z prefers to acquire their designer gear, making Stone Island’s appeal to a new generation and subculture, once again, feel organic.
This season’s capsule is the largest yet, featuring over 30 styles crafted from fabrics like Melton wool (a new blend of 95% wool and 5% cashmere), suede sheepskin, and performance twill wool. Notable pieces include a down parka made from Merino worsted wool twill, resin-coated for wind resistance, and padded with responsibly sourced down. Another unique textile, Ventile®, a natural material developed in the UK from fine cotton fiber, provides casual comfort and weather protection.
Stone Island’s latest campaign spotlights individuals who are masters of their craft, demonstrating excellence in fields ranging from tech to the creative arts. Like the brand’s countercultural roots, these individuals break away from traditional norms, choosing innovation and authenticity over conformity. So, it makes sense that Stone Island chose Philippe Starck to rock Ghost outerwear in this season’s campaign. A visionary French designer and architect, Starck has revolutionized his craft since the 1980s, creating everything from furniture and interiors to private airfields. Known for his ability to fuse function & form (ahem, Stone Island), Starck’s nearly five-decade career democratizes high design, crafting functional yet beautiful objects that provoke thought and redefine norms.
Philippe Starck On His Stone Island Collaboration
For a brand to stay relevant, it must evolve. Stone Island is doing just that, as the latest Ghost Collection elevates the brand’s designs while staying true to its identity and community. Philippe Starck’s ethos reflects this, and Robb Report had the opportunity to speak with the famed architect and designer about his involvement in the campaign.
RR: Tell us a little about your personal history with Stone Island. When did you first discover the brand?
PS: “I have this mental sickness called creativity. I was diagnosed neurodivergent. I live in autarky, only with my wife and my daughter, far from everything and everyone. I don’t go out; I am not interested in brands or trends. Thus, I only discovered Stone Island recently and liked its humanity, intelligence, and energy. It is not one more fashion brand. It is about honesty and quality, providing a real service, and always looking towards the future.”
RR: Stone Island is not so much a fashion label as it is a community that has stayed true to its ethos. What do you view as the defining characteristics of Stone Island? What values do you share with a brand, and what made you want to participate in this new campaign?
PS: “Over the last 40 years, Stone Island’s mission has been to put material research and innovation at the heart of the development of its collections. Their willingness to push the boundaries of technology and experimentation while emphasizing elegance and functionality is one of the similarities that resonates in my work. I believe that elegant functionality is essential to guarantee a timeless and durable product. Following this vision, I have spent my life searching for solutions to better serve my community: new materials, new shapes, new technologies, and techniques, constantly pushing manufacturers to achieve what I had in mind – which can sometimes take decades because the technology is not advanced enough.”
“So, when Stone Island contacted me, it felt natural to accept their invitation to join this community. I am thrilled to be amongst such intelligent and elegant people.”
RR: As a renowned industrial designer and architect, can you tell us what design elements/pieces of Stone Island you like, specifically in the Ghost Collection?”
PS: “The Ghost Collection is based on one of the most modern ideas: dematerialization. All monochrome, each piece’s design is refined to the minimum, emancipating it from trends or cultural influence. Along with the extreme quality of the manufacture, this can only guarantee a timeless product and collection that will last over time. Our future is about dematerialization: the less materiality, the more humanity.
“I don’t buy clothes or get dressed for fun or pleasure. All my wardrobe is purely functional. I need a diagonal uniform that allows me to do almost anything in any condition, from the peaks to the waves, from the plane to the opera. Everything must be versatile. Especially as I am a biker, and motorcycling requires very precise protection parameters, such as total thermal neutrality and rainproof quality. My outfit, therefore, consists of an isothermal jacket with a very strong waterproof ballistic fabric, highly resistant in the event of a fall, matte gray in color, worn to the hilt; shoes that must be neither hot nor cold and go through the airport security checkpoints without wasting my time, with a technicality stemming from a cobra system, Kevlar ties. It is all a question of comfort, versatility, and technicality.”
“And that is what Stone Island offers with its garments. The pieces I have chosen to wear for the campaign are made from intelligent natural materials: down in very fine merino combed wool twill, cashmere, resin-coated on the inside to cut the wind, always putting forward elegant functionality.”
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