The Best Men's Dress Watches Under £1,000
In January, Vacheron Constantin scored a huge PR hit by announcing a new version of its Historiques 222.
Anyone who follows anyone involved in the watch world on social media, or looks at watch websites, or luxury media in general, couldn’t escape the news that the venerable Swiss watchmaker had released a steel version of its Brad Pitt-endorsed, 18k gold dress watch that became the It watch of 2022. (Esquire published a 2,000-word story on that, and led the enthusiastic response to the new one.)
It's a lovely watch!
Also, despite it now being made from steel rather than gold, an expensive one.
Even if you have the £30,800 readily available, Vacheron is at pains to point out that the new 222 is “limited by supply”. That is watch speak for: there’s a waiting list.
And that’s a whole other issue.
We have it on good authority that the owner of a mall in the UAE offered the brand a year’s free rent on its outlet there, in return for being able to jump the queue, for example.
You get the idea.
So, this seemed as reasonable an opportunity as any to run down a selection of dress watch options at the other end of the scale, ones that won’t break the bank/ discount the mall, and that anyone can get their hands on right now.
As a disclaimer, we are aware that comparing an 18k gold dress watch made by one of the oldest Swiss manufacturers in the world, with another dress watch made by an independent brand using Chinese movements is not the same thing.
On the other hand, if dress watches are defined as simple timepieces in elegant cases, traditionally kept for best occasions, it’s not totally different either.
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Seiko Presage Cocktail Time "Skydiving"
Both Seiko and its big brother Grand Seiko love nothing more than making watches with dials that reference a specific aspect of homegrown Japanese culture. There exist Seiko watches inspired by “the active volcano of Mount Iwate”, “a plum tree that resembles a dragon lying on the ground” and “the Ibaraki prefecture’s abundance of natural splendour”, for example. With this in mind, the colourful, glossy dials of its Cocktail Time collection – the “Manhattan”, the “Negroni”, the “Mojito”, etc – aren’t simply named for those drinks, but for the work of Tokyo barman Shinobu Ishigaki, winner of a competition called the Bacardi Mixing Grand Prix. Available in a range of sizes, colours and complications, Cocktail Time’s entry fee of
Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80
There isn’t another Swiss watchmaker who offers more for less, making Tissot the perfect starter brand for many. Its poppy PRX line was given a boost from TikTok but since that’s technically a sports/dress hybrid it’s off this list. For actual dress watch bona fides let’s head instead to the Le Locle collection. Named for “the centre of Swiss watchmaking” and Tissot’s home in the Jura Mountains, Le Locle has proved a bestseller the world over. It’s easy to see why. Its guilloche-style dial pattern dial and Roman numerals offer a point of difference from more traditional dress watches, while Tissot’s Powermatic 80 movement has more than three days of power reserve. Available in silver, green, blue or white.
Junghans Men's Max Bill
Most of us would probably agree that “form follows function” is an idea that sums up circular wristwatches well. Max Bill was certainly a fan. The Swiss architect, artist and industrial designer was deeply influenced by the Bauhaus movement, with its emphasis on minimalism, functionality and balance, and designed this model for the German brand Junghans in 1961. (He did a kitchen clock with a timer first.) With its restrained dial layout, slim case and stark typography, made more legible by its domed crystal, the Max Bill offers a different take on the idea of a dress watch. Available in both mechanical (hand-wound and automatic) and quartz versions. You’ll never meet anyone who doesn’t like this watch.
£825.00 at firstclasswatches.co.uk
Baltic MR Classic Salmon
The Parisian independent has been one of the biggest watch stories of the last few years, building a large community of loyal fans who appreciate they’re getting something unique in every vintage-inspired timepiece. “We are putting all our effort into making aesthetically perfect balanced dials, cases and hands,” says founder and designer Etienne Malec, who started Baltic in tribute to his watch-collecting dad. “Our aim is to offer timeless pieces, of the highest quality, for fair prices.” With its wonderfully designed watches starting around £300, some might say those prices are beyond fair. All Baltic’s lines are great – it has takes on dive watches (Aquascaphe), chronographs (Bicompax) and dual timers (Aquascaphe GMT). But its Patek-inspired MR collection is in a class of its own, thanks to its micro-rotor, applied Breguet numerals and lovely textured dials in salmon, blue and silver.
Dennison A.L.D
After Piaget, Toledano & Chan and Berneron have made weirdly-shaped, stone dial watches the very trendiest watches, who among us wouldn’t like to get in on a piece (pebble? chip?) of the action? Instead of spending tens of thousands of pounds, Dennison will sort you out with something in malachite, lapis lazuli, aventurine or tiger’s eye for £577. The brand’s backstory is good, too. Founded in Birmingham in the 19th Century as a watch casemaker, the company fell into disrepair in 1967, was revived as a watch brand in 2016, and then revived again in 2024, this time looking completely different. That’s because it is now overseen by Emmanuel Guiet, the watch designer who has worked with Rolex, Piaget and Hermés, and who designed Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore. “Every design I have ever made I am proud of,” Guiet says. “It’s like having kids every time, and if it’s a success it’s even better.” The A.L.D’s thin, half-cushion, half-ellipse case measures a petite 33.6mm x 37mm, and it runs on a quartz movement.
Frederique Constant Classics Automatic
The often-overlooked brand is a baby in Swiss watchmaking terms, launching its first collection in 1994. It was given a boost after its acquisition by the Citizen Watch Group in 2016 and has been slowly converting watch snobs ever since. Last year’s Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture – a collaboration with seconde/seconde/ – aka “the Banksy of watches” – was nominated for a GPHG Award, its second entry into the prestigious competition. A smidge under a grand will buy you this elegant 40mm three-hander, featuring a clean silver (or black) dial plus, says Frederique Constant, “the date window at 3 o’clock [which] provides an elegant touch, for hectic days when your watch is your best friend”. Or, simply: a date window.
Hamilton Boulton American Classic
There’s a great deal to enjoy about the Hamilton brand, founded in 19th Century America and now, like Ovaltine and Bally shoes, proudly Swiss. Its peerless line of field watches, the Khaki Field. Its role as Hollywood’s go-to watchmaker, from 1932’s Shanghai Express to 2024’s Dune: Part Two. And its perfect “Murph”, one of Esquire’s favourite watches ever. The Classic Boulton blends rectangular and curved lines to give it is classy 34mm x 38mm tonneau-shaped case. The model first appeared in the 1940s, was revived in the 1980s and looks equally at home in the 2020s. “The Boulton offers Swiss precision whole staying true to its American spirit,” says the brand. We can’t improve on that.
Timex Marlin Automatic 40
A reissue of a 1960s Timex dress watch, the Marlin’s clean and understated design, featuring a simple dial, slim hands and small case (in 34-40mm options) evokes vintage, mid-century aesthetics without feeling like a prop. Collabs with designers like Todd Synder and Peanuts-themed editions have also kept things fresh and interesting for the Marlin line. That said, for many its biggest appeal will line its most traditional aspect – its mechanical, hand-wound movement.
Citizen Silver Leaf Lacquer NB1060
Another Japanese brand know for offering excellent value, and another watch where the dial is the main draw. The light-catching mottling effect of blues and greens is achieved by a combination of two effects Citizen has used on previous models. Silver leaf foil is applied to the base of the dial, which is then lacquered. The process is done by hand, which gives the face its appealingly uneven effect. At 38.2mm it’ll look right on most wrists. The catch is that this automatic model is currently only available from Citizen in Japan. But that doesn’t stop you picking up a new one from a secondary seller for around £550.
Farer Erebus II
Will scratch the itch for any awkward customers after something sleek and grown up (the glossy black dial), but that also comes with a pop of personality (the bronze syringe hands). Celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2025, the British-designed, Swiss-made company has a fixation with English adventurers like George Mallory and Amy Johnson, its name – not to be confused with fellow Brits, Fears – said to evoke “seafarer” and “wayfarer”. The Erebus II was christened after a 19th Century Royal Navy polar exploration vessel, but this 39.5mm model would be more at home on dry land, not least because it’s only waterproof to 50 meters. Comes on a Milanese bracelet for £915, but we think it looks smarter on a strap, of which Farer currently offers a generous ten options, from rubber to suede to leather, for £20 less. Its automatic movement is visible through the case back.
Orient Bambino 38mm
Orient began in Tokyo in 1901 as a watch shop that imported and sold other brands, before before starting its own line in the 1950s. The brand was acquired by Seiko in the 1980s and doubled down on producing mechanical watches, as demand started to swing back from quartz and digital in the 2000s. The Orient Star line is where you’ll find watches with conversation-starters like open-heart dials, power reserve indicators and fancy finishing. Orient Mako is for dive watches. But the line that has wooed aficionados and the budget-minded alike is Orient Bambino. Whether you’re swayed by having a small-seconds complication, a multi-dial layout or a face with a window that partly-shows off the movement, it’s impossible to spend over £300 on any of its 35 (!) current options. Keep things classy with this simple, beige-dialled and blue-handed model.
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