The Best Things to Do on Paros—the Greek Island Best Savored in Shoulder Season
Stavros Habakis/Cove Paros
If you think that Labor Day marks the end of summer vacations and seaside revelry, think again. On the Greek island of Paros, September is the best time to visit. Thanks to its rising popularity, Paros in July and August has recently become enormously busy. Roughly the size of the city of Stockholm at 75 square miles, Paros can feel insufferably crowded in the peak of summer. But in September—and for a few weeks beyond—a lot of that pressure is released, making the island feel more expansive and easier to enjoy.
Shoulder season is when residents get their Paros back. “After the hustle and bustle of [summer], the island starts to breathe again,” says Christiane Smit, who has lived here for 16 years as a ceramic artist and is now owner of the newly opened villa Moonhouse Paros. “The sea is still warm and inviting, but the beaches are no longer crowded. The narrow streets of Naoussa, Parikia, and the villages regain their charm, gently humming with actual life.”
But the lack of traffic and tourist hordes are not the only reasons why visitors and locals alike named September the best time on the island: According to Paros native, tour guide, and author Konstantinos Statheros, the month also brings great weather following the hot, windy days of August. “September is definitely one more month of warm weather, but without the scorching temperatures of the main summer months,” he says. “The Cyclades experience severe winds and rough seas in August, but these stop in September, and the sea calms down.”
If an end-of-summer jaunt to a tranquil, crowd-free island is what you’re craving, Paros in September impresses with a medley of warm beaches, rugged hiking trails, lively restaurants, and atmospheric villages. Just be mindful that this is when a slower pace of life starts to take over the region—so pull up a beach chair, pour yourself a glass of Parian wine, and take it easy.
Getting around Paros
During high season, traffic on Paros and many other Greek islands can be patience-defying—but it eases up in September, so springing for a car means you’ll be able to explore more of Paros instead of overpaying for taxis. (You may hear about visitors vrooming on an ATV; don’t bother—they’re regularly getting into accidents.)
What to do on Paros: beaches, farms, and hiking trails
Since you’re in Greece, the best beaches will be high on your list: Agioi Anargyri is a popular family-friendly option on a tranquil bay near Noussa. Half the beach has hotel sunbeds and umbrellas, which anyone can rent, and the other half is free for the taking. Not far is Santa Maria, one of the longer stretches of sand on Paros at about a mile and a half. There is a more organized beach club and watersports concession, but you can also just lay your own towel on the outskirts of their operations and enjoy the sun, sea, and views of the adjacent island of Naxos.
Monastiri, just beneath the blue dome of Agios Ioannis Detis church, is an atmospheric spot where you can post up on a rock to watch boats sail by. If you’re craving provisions, Monastiri Paros, one of the island’s more popular beach bars, is right here. Sandy Krios near Parikia is beautifully organized with bars and beach clubs. Crios, which opened for the 2024 season, gives mini Mykonos vibes with its minimalist aesthetic, customized bottles of Miraval rosé, and rotating selection of European DJs.
Among the many natural, untouched beaches (no bar, no sun loungers), the most popular might be clothing-optional Lageri, surrounded by rolling sand dunes. It’s a 15-minute drive from Naoussa, and by no means a secret (nothing on this island seems to be anymore)—but it’s still a fantastic spot for a seaside sunset. For something totally quiet: In the southwest between the fishing village of Aliki and the airport, Voutakos is a small sandy beach that very few travelers go to.
To get outdoors off-beach, explore Paros’ fertile farmlands just south of Monastiri at Petra Farm, where you can tour the grounds, meet goats, and then taste the fruits of their labor—juicy tomatoes, tasty figs, sweet-and-spicy chili jam. Just north of Drios, there’s also Domaine Myrsini, a new winery from husband-and-wife team Nicolas and Marie Astrid Bourget, who moved to Paros from France a few years ago: Their low-intervention production of Cycladic varieties (roditis, assyrtiko) yields four different bottlings—all of which can be enjoyed during a wine-tasting on the sweet hilltop patio. Early fall is also prime hiking season, perfect to do the four-ish-mile Byzantine Road from Lefkes to the village of Prodromos.
Entirely less strenuous (or maybe not) is the island’s shopping scene. Homegrown fashion brand Leto has boutiques in both Naoussa and Parikia to mine colorful linen pieces of symmetrical dresses and classic button-down shirts. Athens-based jewelry label Neso has a Naoussa boutique full of whimsically shaped rings, earrings, and necklaces festooned with rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. For architectural ceramics, make an appointment with Todd Marshard, who started his career at Donna Karan’s Urban Zen and is now living and working on Paros. His Lefkes studio is full of unusually shaped vases and decorative sculptures.
There are also plenty of local events happening on the island in September. Moonhouse’s Smit recommends getting acquainted with a traditional harvest: “While it’s not a formal festival, harvest is a communal activity that many locals partake in, and sometimes visitors are invited to join,” she says, adding that beyond wine there’s also kazani, a type of distilled grape and one of the more unique spirits produced on Paros.
Tour guide Statheros says you can’t miss Kapetaneika, a celebration of the region’s seafaring heritage. This usually takes place mid-month and features some of Greece’s most magnificent wooden sailing vessels. And, of course, “it wouldn’t be complete without a feast and plenty of drinking that starts at noon and ends very late at night,” he says.
Where to eat and drink on Paros
Visiting a popular island like Paros during the dying days of the season makes it easy to dine well without a reservation—which is near impossible in peak months. Mario, a nearly 20-year-old culinary icon in Parikia (it recently relocated from its bustling main square address in Naoussa) is a sea-facing perch with some of the best sunset views on Paros. As for chef Markoulis Giannis’ esteemed kitchen, the ceviche is famous—but the fava bean puree, fried squid, and the seafood orzo with saffron are well worthwhile. The wine list is heavy on Greek labels, including a few local to Paros; Moraitis, Seiradi P.F.C., and Moraitico.
Siparos, an easy-breezy open-air restaurant overlooking a small beach, has its own jetty to arrive in style via boat. Either way, Siparos is a particularly lovely pick for lunch, after spending the morning hiking or sunbathing. (The clothing-optional Lageri beach is only a few minutes away.) If you don’t mind indulging in fried stuff, get the fried feta donuts and the sea bream nuggets—addictive and pair wonderfully with a bottle of rosé (take it from me).
A favorite in Ampelas, Blue Oyster is right on the water so they offer beach service if you choose to come during the day. The order here is the fish pie, wrapped in a flaky, fried phyllo dough. Barbarossa back in Naoussa is the people-watching choice, especially for a pre-dinner cocktail. Outside, at the port, under strings of twinkling Christmas lights: the vibes are always right, and the later it gets, the more boisterous the ambience becomes. If you want a gentler dining experience in Naoussa, walk through its meandering alleys for Statheros, which is owned by a Parian family and serves mostly traditional Greek fare. There might already be a chill in the air so tuck in the kakavia, a fish soup loaded with onions, parsley, tomato, and olive oil.
Crowning a hill in the village of Kostos is Santa Pacou, a relative newcomer to the local dining scene when it opened in 2023. The outdoor terrace overlooking the Aegean is where you’ll want to be for a lingering dinner. Yes, there’s seafood, but there’s also a lot of hearty meat, such as juicy oven-cooked goat, tender pork shoulder, and classic moussaka. Do breakfast-for-dinner and end the night with a plate of sweet-cream bougatsa for dessert.
Where to stay
September hotel rates are also more forgiving on Paros, where the hotel scene is becoming luxurious enough to compete with Santorini and Mykonos. Double down on serenity at Cove, a minimalist 40-room hotel in the outskirts of Naoussa village. The 12-years-and-up guest policy means clientele are mostly couples or small families with older children; breakfast, pool time, and afternoons by the sea have a restful energy. There aren’t too many on-property amenities beyond the restaurant Rada, but there is a shop, spa, and fitness room. Staff can book guests a boat for a day trip to the tiny island of Antiparos, or sign you up for a ceramics-making class pronto.
Smit’s design-forward Moonhouse is among the newest villas on the island. On a secluded hilltop in Kotsos, this sleek, low-lying rental is the perfect small-group hideaway. Think: poured concrete walls, massive windows, a marble-framed fireplace, a gorgeous chef’s kitchen, and plenty of outdoor spaces. You’re not within direct access to a beach, but that’s what the 40-foot-long saltwater pool is for. The three-bedroom main house usually sleeps six, but two additional guest houses can easily double that capacity count to 12.
Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler
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