The black-tie dress code for women, decoded
Black-tie invites might not arrive very often, but when they do they can present a sartorial challenge. For all its specific rules, this formal dress code is confusing and intimidating in equal measures. What was originally designed as a way of protecting guests from arriving at an event under- or overdressed, has become a complicated social minefield.
Although not the most formal dress code in existence (that title belongs to white tie), black tie still suggests a level of glamour and refinement that goes beyond standard eveningwear. While a tuxedo jacket, designer denim and heels will satisfy many after-dark style scenarios, black tie is a more demanding brief. The British etiquette guide Debrett’s still says that “for most people, this is the most formal dress code they will ever encounter”. The advice for female guests is brief: “Women should wear a full-length evening dress or ball gown with or without long sleeves. Long gloves may be worn with sleeveless dresses.”
In an attempt to define what black tie really requires from your ensemble, we asked stylist Holly White for advice. Known for dressing a slew of rising Hollywood stars from House of the Dragon’s Milly Alcock to Bridgerton’s Charithra Chandran and How To Have Sex star Mia Bruce, she is well versed in navigating the befuddling style dilemmas that come with formal invites – while ensuring that her clients still look chic, contemporary and, most importantly, comfortable. Should you wear black? How short is too short? What styles are occasion-appropriate but still modern? She breaks down the modern-day black-tie rules below.
What is the easiest way to manage a black-tie dress code?
“I tend to use dress codes to gauge the overall feel and energy of the event or party, so try not to feel too spooked by them – they’re there to help. Ultimately, when it comes to my clients, I’m always looking to land on something that makes them feel their best and most confident – and that should be a priority for everyone. Black tie isn’t always as traditional as it once was; it’s become much more creative and people are curating their looks in new and interesting ways that still feel elevated. This also means guests tend to seek out show-stopping outfits that they're more likely to wear again, which is so important from an environmental perspective. The level of formality varies according to the invite, so it’s always worth checking with your host if you’re unsure. Everyone has their own interpretation of what black tie means.”
Solace London
A simple strapless neckline makes way to major sleeves in Solace London's elegant column gown.
£245.00 at net-a-porter.com.uk
Staud
Youthful yet still elegant, Staud's floor-sweeping maxi makes light work of mastering the sheer trend: note the translucent panelling that contours the waistline.
£261.00 at net-a-porter.com.uk
Balmain
Balmain makes the always flattering wrap silhouette a black-tie proposition with cascading tiers of pearls.
Nina Ricci
The high neckline of Nina Ricci's gown ensures you'll make an elegant entrance: but there's drama to be found at the back.
How do you navigate black-tie invites in a modern way?
“Look for contemporary necklines – a cowl neck, off-the-shoulder, a high-neck (think Saint Laurent, Alaia and Alexander McQueen) and focus on the details; add a sheer opera glove or a modern hair accessory, like a headband or a crystal hair clip."
Do you have to wear black?
“Black isn’t the only option, but if that’s your sartorial safe space, go for it. I recommend sticking to block colours rather than anything too fussy because it allows you to have more fun with the silhouette and accessories, while honouring the dress code.”
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood's iconic corsetry is always a faultless move.
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera's voluminous silhouettes are all the more striking in fuchsia.
Taller Marmo
Taller Marmo's bold green dress will look fabulous teamed with muted gold accessories.
£755.00 at net-a-porter.com.uk
Huishan Zhang
With couture-level craftsmanship behind every piece, Huishan Zhang's dresses are future heirlooms in the making. Festooned with feathers, this one is guaranteed to be remembered.
What length of dress is acceptable?
“When it comes to black-tie evening dresses, floor-length is preferred, but a mid-length also works. Anything shorter starts to feel more ‘cocktail party’ and too relaxed for a black-tie occasion.”
Which silhouettes work best?
“Fit is everything, whether form-fitting or oversized. Never wear anything you’ve had to squeeze yourself into. Regardless of how tight or loose your dress is, make sure that it’s tailored to your proportions – it’s the easiest way of bolstering your confidence and looking elegant.”
Jennifer Behr
A bow hair clip is the perfect feminine flourish for a ponytail or half-up style.
BAR Jewellery
Slender and sculptural, these gold earrings are an elegant finisher for contemporary looks.
Cornelia James
Royal Warrant glovemaker Cornelia James makes the most classic, second-skin opera gloves: perfect for adding coverage to a black-tie look.
Monica Vinader
A cascading string of lab-grown diamonds gives Monica Vinader's gold earrings just the right amount of sparkle.
Which bag is best?
“A clutch will always elevate a look – it’s an occasionwear classic – but I’d also suggest considering an evening bag with a small handle or delicate chain strap that you can either hold or nonchalantly drape over your shoulder.”
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha's signature pearly clutches are feminine with a subversive slant.
Gabriela Hearst
A take-everywhere hero, Gabriela Hearst's clutch – which is exclusive to Net a Porter and supremely in-demand – never stays in stock for long.
£1020.00 at net-a-porter.com.uk
Metier
With hardware designed by jeweller Fernando Jorge, Metier's slick black clutch speaks volumes.
£1490.00 at net-a-porter.com.uk
DeMellier
Available in a host of classic hues, DeMellier's Paris clutch is the one for the modern dresser.
$316.00 at demellierlondon.com
Which shoes are best?
“I don’t think there are any hard rules on this. A kitten heel or higher often makes the look more formal, but it’s also important to be able to walk easily and with confidence so choose a heel height that you feel comfortable in. There are so many glamorous flat party shoes that now, so don’t make yourself wear heels if it doesn’t feel natural to you.”
Amina Muaddi
When it comes to high-octane glamour that feels thoroughly modern, no-one does it quite like Amina Muaddi.
Manolo Blahnik
Whether it's a towering heel or a flat slipper, a Manolo Blahnik crystal shoe is always an after-dark success.
£1025.00 at net-a-porter.com.uk
Mach & Mach
Mach & Mach makes the red slipper a modern proposition this season. Pick out the clever embellishment with silver jewellery.
Jimmy Choo
Jimmy Choo's pointed pumps are the proof that flats can be just as dazzling as a 10cm stiletto.
What missteps should I avoid?
“Avoid fabrics that feel casual, for example cotton or wool. Instead look for luxe materials like crepe, silk or chiffon.”
The black-tie finishing touches
“Accessories and confidence. My job as a stylist is essentially about creating confidence as well as curating a look that will stand the test of time on the red carpet. Hair, make-up and a painted nail has more impact than you might think – if you can treat yourself to a professional beauty look, it will pay off. A quick blow-dry will make a huge difference to how you feel.”
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