Chef Selin Kiazim's perfect recipe for eating your way through Istanbul

Istanbul has it all when it comes to city breaks: culture, a fantastic hotel scene and most importantly to chef Selin Kiazim: unbeatable foodie credentials. Here she shares her guide to eating your way around the Turkish city.

Where is your favourite destination and why?

Istanbul, hands down. Every six months or so, I feel this irresistible urge to go back and soak it all in, even if just for a couple of days. Of course, life doesn’t always allow for spontaneous trips, but ideally, I’d visit once or twice a year. Even a quick trip leaves me feeling energised and invigorated. And the food? Mind-blowing. Second to none. Everywhere you go, there’s something delicious to eat.

When was the last time you were there, and who were you with?

The last time, sadly, was October 2023, which says a lot about how busy 2024 has been — we really wanted to go but just couldn’t make it work. I went with my partner, Steph, for a long weekend before traveling onwards in Turkey. I managed to squeeze in 10 meals over three days. It takes dedication, I tell you! It meant braving Istanbul’s infamous taxis, crossing continents (Istanbul spans Europe and Asia), and venturing into neighbourhoods we’d never been to before.

Where do you like to stay there?

We’ve had some great stays at the Room Mate Emir Hotel in Beyoğlu. The beds are big and comfortable, and it doesn’t hurt that it’s next door to our favourite breakfast spot, Lades Menemen. This no-frills eatery specialises in one thing: menemen — eggs scrambled with peppers and tomatoes — washed down with plenty of steaming hot çay (Turkish tea). Even after 10 meals in three days, we always find room for one last breakfast here before flying out.

What has been your favourite meal in Istanbul?

Nazende, on the Asian side. Chef Uluç is everything I aspire to be. His daily menu, which he writes each morning, is simply what he feels like cooking that day, and everything he feels like cooking is absolutely delicious. The mezes we had there were unforgettable. Mezes are a traditional start to any Turkish meal, but it’s rare for them to stand out the way these did. We had these fried red peppers, so sweet and crispy they were like crisps, perfect for dipping in yogurt. I’ve never forgotten them, and I’ve been hunting for similar peppers ever since.

What are your top three restaurants?

Nazende is at the top of the list. Then there’s Zübeyir Ocakbaşı near Taksim Square — it’s our first stop every trip. After landing and checking in to the hotel, we head straight there for their incredible Adana kebab. The flavour of Turkish lamb cooked over fire is on another level. My tip: grab a seat at the bar surrounding the ocakbaşı (grill) to watch the masters in action. Lastly, anything by chef Sinem Özler is a must. Her restaurant, Seraf, breathes new life into forgotten Anatolian recipes with meticulous cooking and the best ingredients from around the country. It’s my partner’s favourite meal in Turkey, period. And that’s saying something.

What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?

Eat! Four (or five?) meals in 24 hours is totally doable, with some careful planning. Start with breakfast at Lades Menemen (or Zübeyir if you arrive in the evening). Then take a boat across the Bosphorus — my favourite way to travel in Istanbul — and visit the Kadıköy market. Stop by a pickle shop to discover the incredible variety of things that can be pickled; runner beans are a favourite. Grab a quick lahmacun [flatbread topped with minced meat and minced vegetables] at Halil Lahmacun for lunch. Dinner has to be at Nazende. And don’t forget a late-night stop at Taksim Square for an islak burger (a burger soaked in tomato sauce) at Kızılkayalar. Mission complete.

What is the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?

I can’t visit Istanbul without a Bosphorus crossing. These big, metal ferries — dented, scuffed and doing their diligent duty — are part and parcel of the Istanbul skyline. For about 30 lira (roughly 50p), you can cross from Karaköy on the European side to Kadıköy on the Asian side. Pair it with a little çay, sit back, and enjoy the breeze and stunning views as you pass between continents.

Is there a hidden gem you are willing to share?

There’s a little ramshackle restaurant on the Asian side called Salaş Ciğer Şeftali Kebabı. It’s housed in what looks like a patched-up shack by a busy road, but the kebabs are incredible. We had some amazing liver (ciğer) there — it’s so good, they even named the place after it.

Where do you like to let your hair down?

No time for that — must eat.

Who do you call to have a good time there?

I don’t have his number (yet — but if you read this, call me!) but I’d call Onur Ziya Demir. Together with Oğuz Yenihayat, he runs a YouTube channel called Ayaküstü Lezzetler. They explore Turkey’s hidden food spots and search out ustas — culinary masters that have perfected the art of one thing (kebab, börek, desserts). Onur is my go-to for restaurant inspiration, and Istanbul is his home turf.

Favourite shops?

Pickle shops, of course. But there are also lovely antique shops in Beyoğlu. And just so you know, I’ve personally tested it and Turkish Airlines is fine with you bringing a suitcase full of shopping — including a giant lampshade — on board. They’ve seen it all.

The one thing you would bring home as a souvenir?

Özlem Tuna’s porcelain coffee cups. They’re incredibly delicate and precise, making every Turkish coffee experience feel special. Her shop in Beyoğlu is worth a visit.

Your dress code for the destination?

Comfortable chic — if that’s a thing. Wear clothes that work for both wet burgers in Taksim Square and upscale dining. And in summer, prepare for sweltering heat.

Your packing essential?

Blister plasters and loose trousers. You’ll thank me later.

Your favourite wellness spot?

If you’re chasing a radiant glow and skin as soft as a newborn’s, there’s only one place to go: Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam. This hamam is housed in a 16th-century Ottoman landmark in Tophane, near the Bosphorus. It’s a two-hour experience in an absolutely stunning marbled space. There is relaxing, yes, but also 40 minutes of scrubbing by some very vigorous, strong-armed ladies. I’ve never felt so clean.

Which song that reminds you of the place?

The call to prayer. It’s this beautiful sound that weaves itself into the hustle and bustle of a city that’s always going, always moving. It’s quintessential Istanbul for me.

Have you ever had an emergency incident there?

There’s a lovely fish restaurant called Uskumru, right on the Bosphorus under the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. To get there, you take their private boat over. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find a taxi to the boat launch and ended up walking 40 minutes down a steep hill. The friends I had convinced to come with me might call the need for a bathroom break an emergency — I wouldn’t. But the meal was absolutely worth it. Fresh fish out on the deck, looking at the twinkling lights of ships passing by on the Bosphorus: it’s just something else.

Which building you would you like to live in?

Give me a (little tiny) mansion by the Bosphorus, and I can die a happy woman.