Dermatologists Use This 1 Trick To Help Figure Out What's Causing Your Acne
Whether you have onepimple or a bunch, it’s never a sight you want to see. Sometimes it seems like no matter how much youwash your face or how muchacne treatment you use, acne just won’t go away. And if you’re not a teenager, it’s especially frustrating trying to figure out the source of the breakouts.
Dermatologists are here to help with that last issue. A key trick to finding the cause of acne, they said, is noting where the breakout is located on your face — it’s called facial mapping. This method may not be 100% accurate all of the time, but it’s often a good starting point.
Let’s break it down by each area of the face.
Forehead
Forehead pimples can pop up for a few reasons.
“Excess oil production is the main cause, followed by stress,” saidDr. Roger Kapoor, a Harvard-trained dermatologist who’s the senior executive vice president of Beloit Health System in Beloit, Wisconsin. “Watch out for things that can clog pores, such as headbands, hats, helmets and even hair products.”
When hair products clog pores, the acne you’ll see is typically a small bump, either a whitehead or blackhead, according to Dr. Ruth McTighe, a board-certified dermatologist at Waccamaw Dermatology in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina.
The good news is you don’t have to give up those products completely. “To prevent this, avoid letting hair products come into contact with these areas; for example, wearing a headband when applying them can help,” said Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist who trained at Harvard and is the owner and founder of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery of Manhattan. That way, you further delineate your hairline from your face.
Makeup is another consideration. “There’s also pomade acne, which is due to the use of heavy oils, waxes and comedogenic makeup on or around the face,” Henry said. “Oftentimes, acne is just kind of random, but when you’re seeing acne solely on the forehead, it could be due to any of the above reasons.”
Kapoor said this forehead acne will last several weeks, on average. The effective treatment options he recommended are over-the-counter salicylic acid and adapalene 0.1% cream.
Cheeks
Cheek acne can stem from various contributors, such as bacteria, diet and rosacea. Let’s break each one down.
Bacteria comes from various sources: tobacco smoke, a dirty pillowcase, your makeup brush, your cellphone screen, chin straps (like from a bike helmet) and medical masks (aka “maskne”).
As far as foods and drinks go, it’s a bit more complicated. “While research persists and no direct link has been established between certain foods and acne, we know that diet can contribute to and even result in acne in some people,” Kapoor said, noting his clients have seen a link. “Food does not universally cause acne but is something I advise all my clients to be aware of and take action.”
More specifically, he recommended keeping a food diary and seeing if you can draw patterns between acne flare-ups and eating sugary foods or caffeine-filled drinks.
Last but not least, let’s talk about rosacea. McTighe said this skin condition may look like acne on your upper cheeks. “Acne-like bumps in these areas may be a sign ofrosacea, or acne rosacea, often accompanied by background redness and flushing,” she said.
Rosacea is a type of inflammatory lesion that can be treated with low-dose oral antibiotics, topical antibiotics or other targeted skin care products.
Cheek acne typically lasts about as long as forehead acne, according to Kapoor. (So several weeks, on average.)
However, the treatment options he mentioned differ from the treatments for forehead acne: Experts recommend over-the-counter products that contain benzoyl peroxide or a topical antibiotic, such as topical clindamycin. “Products that help clean and sterilize the skin generally help,” Kapoor summarized.
Jawline
The main contributor to jawline acne is hormonal fluctuations, so women may notice more pimples around their period, for example. This acne is cyclical and may last a few weeks.
Henry tied this type of acne to androgens (which are known as the “male” hormones, though women have some of it, too). She’s seen it in people who are menstruating, have polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), are pregnant or are experiencingmenopause. Basically, people typically experience hormonal fluctuations — including an increase in androgen — at those times. Androgens stimulate sebum production, which can lead to breakouts.
“The jawline is really the only part of the face where we think that acne is linked to internal issues,” she added, noting jawline acne is especially well-researched.
So what’s the treatment? It depends on the person, of course, but Kapoor said options include over-the-counter hormonal therapy, such as birth control, as well as prescription products, such as azelaic acid, dapsone gel and spironolactone. Henry added a topical medication called Winlevi, which interferes with the receptors that hormones use to flare acne.
Nose
Acne on the nose (and/or ears, actually) is another sign of excess oil production that usually lasts a few weeks.
“There is nothing specific about nose acne except for the fact that this tends to be the oiliest part of the face,” Henry said.
As far as treatment goes, Kapoor believes retinoids are the most effective option. “Over-the-counter adapalene 0.1% can be a nice starting point, but if needed, prescription-based retinoid products can potentially offer more aggressive results.”
Mouth Area
If you notice zits around your mouth, consider what products you’ve been using.
“Usually, we see acne around the mouth due to an outside trigger,” Kapoor said. “Triggers could include residual toothpaste, as the fluoride in toothpaste can irritate the skin, lip balms and topical hydrocortisone use.”
These bumps are typically small and itchy, McTighe said, and may also be around your eyes. Typically, they indicate perioral dermatitis. “This condition can be triggered by topical or inhaled corticosteroids, intolerance to certain cosmetic products or medications, and other factors.”
Mouth acne lasts around a few weeks, but can persist if you don’t address that trigger, Kapoor said. Further, topical metronidazole or azelaic acid, along with oral antibiotics, can hurry the process along.
Another Quick Note On Effective Treatment
Treatment depends on the type of acne, not just where it’s located.
“If it is more comedonal, you’re going to want to use a retinoid or a salicylic acid — products that are going to help exfoliate and unclog the pores,” Henry said. “If the acne is more inflammatory, you may want to use benzoyl peroxide, topical antibiotics or sulfur washes — products that are more anti-inflammatory and antibacterial.”
Comedones typically look like small, rough bumps that are either flesh-colored, white or dark. Inflammatory acne, on the other hand, entails red, swollen bumps that are often painful.
But per usual, your best bet is to see a dermatologist. Bodies are complex, acne doesn’t always make sense and what works best for one person might not work as well for another.
Looking For The Best Spot Treatments For Acne? Check These Out Below.
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Amazon
Large patches for on-the-surface acne
Target rating: 4.7 out of 5 stars
When you want a patch that will cover a larger surface area, these non-drying hydrocolloid patches by Rael can do the trick. Designed to gently draw out pus and impurities from surfaced blemishes like whiteheads and pustules, these stickers feature seamless tapered edges and a contoured design that works for areas like the nose, chin, cheeks or forehead. This pack includes 10 patches.
Promising Target review: "I don't break out much usually, but I got some bad cystic acne on my chin the other day (pretty sure it was stress acne rip). But I got these yesterday, and after 2 patches (one overnight, one in the day), it's basically all gone! They stay on very well and weren't too noticeable imo (I have fair skin, they are translucent white, so that probably won't be the case deeper skintones). I just have one small, mostly flat bump left that I could probably knock out with a single microneedle patch. These seriously work! :D" – emy
Amazon
Hydrocolloid patches infused with calming ingredients
Amazon rating: 4.3 out of 5 stars
These thin and transparent hydrocolloid patches claim to shrink surfaced zits overnight and come infused with redness-reducing calendula and tea tree to minimize swelling along with centella asiatica, an ingredient popular in K-beauty products for reducing redness and irritation. The pack comes with 40 patches in three assorted sizes to cover blemishes big or small.
Promising Amazon review: "I love this brand! I have tried all their products- the variety of sizes they offer are wonderful for different needs. I was moving 2 weeks ago and between the stress, dust and sweat both my cheeks broke out- I used the xl patches and it took care of those clusters overnight! I’m 46 so I definitely don’t get as many pimples as I used to (aside from when I’m moving) but as a professional woman having a breakout is embarrassing. I love that these take care of my blemishes right away. My son is 10 and just starting to get an occasional blemish- he also loves these and they work. My niece is 19 and she loves them too! Great for all ages and stages of skin breakouts. Definitely recommend this product and this brand as being reliable and very effective! It’s my go to!" – Laura
Ulta
A sulfuric liquid acne patch
Ulta rating: 4.9 out of 5 stars
Unlike traditional acne patches, this sulfur-based treatment applies as a liquid and transforms into a lipid-based, skin-mimicking film that appears invisible, yet offers a breathable barrier that protects pimples and allows them to heal. In addition to 5% colloidal sulfur, Dermalogica's liquid patch contains niacinamide to reduce redness and fade post-breakout marks, as well as camphor intended to help soothe any zit-related discomfort.
Promising Ulta review: "I have very sensitive and acne prone skin and i have tried so many spot treatments and have gone through numerous pimple patches. This stuff makes sure deep underground pimples never reach the surface. I would say depending on the size of the pimple this product eliminates it in just a few days. Awsome product!" – mya
Amazon
Extra strength pimple patches for early-stage zits
Amazon rating: 4.6 out of 5 stars
For fast-acting blemish healing, these extra strength patches by ZitSticka are specifically formulated to heal deep-rooted pimples before they've had the chance to surface. They offer self-dissolving microdarts to deliver acne-fighting ingredients like 2% salicylic acid, niacinamide and peptides, which can help promote wound healing and skin health. This pack comes with four patches.
Promising Amazon reviews: "Totally recommend this product, specially if you have a big pimple/cyst coming out. I placed it overnight and the next day the pimple was flat." — noemi flores
"I have normally used one of the salicylic acid and sulfur concoctions on the blemishes you can feel coming under the skin. Works well, though messy and smelly. These patches from ZitSticka serve the same function but without the mess or the smell! They work within a few hours to reduce or eliminate that coming blemish." — Pupspicacious
Amazon
Microdart patches for deep blemishes
Amazon and Ulta rating: 4.3 out of 5 stars
This highly rated patch that also uses a microdart delivery system is made by Peach Slices, another well-known K-beauty brand. These nine fast-acting patches each have 176 microdarts containing actives like salicylic acid, tea tree and niacinamide, which can help quell inflammation and fade post-mark scarring. These patches are ideal for early-stage blemishes or for pimples that are deep below the surface of the skin.
Promising Amazon review: "These are great when you catch the pimple at the early stage- the ones that are just becoming painful and red, but haven't come to full fruition yet. Use these little suckers ( make sure to press on it for at least 15 seconds when applying) and usually the next day the guy is much smaller or almost gone. Love them- they are a staple in my beauty routine." — Samantha F.
Amazon
Assorted acne patches from a beloved K-beauty brand
Amazon rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars
Made by the same brand that brought us the viral and skin-transforming snail mucin essence, these assorted-sized patches by Cosrx are made with hydrocolloid to create an ideal level of moisture for accelerating recovery while also preventing the acne area from scarring.
Promising Amazon review: "This is my go to pimple patch. I have been using it for many years and always have extra in the house. I usually put it overnight on clean skin( no toners ) and leave it there. It’s not water proof but if you use it on your body you can totally keep it for couple days and even take shower with it, it won’t come out. Works best if your pimple about to pop or already did and needs a little more drying. Highly recommend!" — Galina B.
Amazon
An adorable anti-inflammatory zit sticker starter kit
Amazon rating: 4.4 out of 5 stars
These cute zit stickers from Starface use their unique star shape to hug more difficult contours of the face, like around the nose and lips, to ensure the best adhesion possible. They are made just using hydrocolloid to absorb fluid, reduce inflammation and shrink spots and come perfectly packaged in this refillable compact, which holds 32 stickers.
Promising Amazon review: "Decided to make the purchase after seeing them advertised. Applied overnight before a formal event and my pimples were flat and less red (like the packaging instructions, I applied after washing my face). Definitely recommend. I even wear these under my mask at work on nightshift. They don’t fall off, just don’t pick at them! 100% will be buying the refills when I run out!" — Jessica Curtis
Amazon
Subtle-looking hydrocolloid patches
Ulta rating: 4.6 out of 5 stars
Mighty Patch's original pimple patches are one of the most-purchased patch options on Amazon and promise to blend seamlessly into skin using a translucent matte finish and an ultra-strong adhesion. Each box comes with 36 UV-sterilized and medical-grade hydrocolloid dots that draw out impurities and keep out bacteria.
Promising Ulta review: "I have the type of rosacea that causes acne. Two days before the the most important job interview of my career I had one of the worst breakouts of my life. I put these patches all over my face, went to bed, and woke up the next morning with a dramatic reduction in pustules. My skin looks nearly perfect. Of everything I've tried in the past to treat a flare up these patches stand head and shoulders above all other products. I'm going to make sure I always have some of these on hand from now on." — Jamie
Sephora
Acne healing dots infused with salicylic acid
Ulta rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars
This 20-pack of acne healing dots are medicated with encapsulated salicylic acid, a highly efficient form of this loved acne-fighting ingredient that deep cleans pores to help treat and prevent new breakouts, without causing excess irritation. The hydrocolloid polymer is also infused with time-honored ingredients like retinol and aloe vera leaf extract for soothing benefits.
Promising Ulta review: "I've used hydrocolloid patches from a well-known K-beauty brand before and was never very impressed with the results. Ordered these Peace Out ones on a whim thinking they were overpriced and probably wouldn't do much but might as well try. This morning I woke up with a huge pimple on my cheek so I decided to test these out and washed my face and stuck one on. First off, they stick super well compared to the other brand I tried. Second, and most importantly, it started absorbing the gunk almost immediately. I took it off after four hours to see the results and my pimple had decreased significantly in size and redness. I applied another one just to be safe but its barely noticeable at this point. Will reach for these in the future!" — Christine
