The five buzzy skincare ingredients to know about in 2025
Pre-pandemic, knowing the difference between retinol, retinal and tretinoin would have been reserved for dermatologists and cosmetic scientists. Fast forward four years and understanding the smoothing nature of niacinamide and plumping hydration of hyaluronic acid is somewhat passé. Now, brands slap ingredients on names and labels to grab our newly-educated attention. Just look at the popularity of The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner (as good for the face as it is for underarms, dry scalps and dehydrated feet) or Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. But what's next? Well, the next round of buzzy ingredients, of course.
Hypochlorous Acid: The bacteria buster
There’s viral and then there’s hypochlorous acid. A skincare ingredient beloved for the way it soothes irritation, eczema and dermatitis, counteracts breakouts and minimises the negative effects of bad bacteria, hypochlorous acid is as revelatory as it is hardworking. Originally used for wound care, only recently has hypochlorous acid crossed over into everyday skincare territory.
“Hypochlorous acid is a naturally occurring compound often used in skincare for its antimicrobial (something that stops the proliferation of bacteria and fungi) and anti-inflammatory properties,” board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology and Dr. Idriss skincare brand, Dr Shereene Idriss explains to Cosmopolitan UK. “It’s a weak acid that our bodies produce as part of the immune response to fight infections. As a skincare ingredient, it’s especially beneficial for sensitive and irritated skin because it can reduce redness, calm inflammation, and combat bacteria.”
A saviour for sensitive, reactive skin, hypochlorous acid simultaneously soothes and stimulates healing – which, if you’ve ever experienced angry, irritable skin feels like a godsend. It’s also highly beneficial for acne-prone skin, largely for the way it stops the growth of bad bacteria on the skin’s surface. Mostly available in sprays (which make spritzing post-workout and shower a doddle), hypochlorous acid can be used multiple times a day. One hack is to look in the infant and baby aisle of your local Boots or pharmacy – hypochlorous acid is often included in gentle cleansing products.
Clinisoothe Skin Purifier 100ml
SOS (Save Our Skin) Facial Spray, £28
HYGIENE™ AQUAINT® sanitising water 50ml
Polyglutamic Acid: The hydration hero
One that you’ve likely used without realising, polyglutamic acid is a hydrating ingredient that helps keep skin plump and full of moisture. A ‘humectant’ – that’s an ingredient that attracts water towards it, like hyaluronic acid, urea and glycerin – polyglutamic acid can hold up to 5000 times its weight in water. For comparison, hyaluronic acid holds up to 1000 times its weight. This is what makes them so beneficial for drawing and keeping water inside the skin. And that’s not all. “Polyglutamic acid also helps to improve skin’s elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and promote a smoother, more radiant complexion,” Dr Idriss explains.
As for when to use polyglutamic acid in your routine, it’ll depend on what format it’s in. For an essence that contains it, pat on with your hands or a cotton pad after cleansing. For serums, it’ll go after using a toner, mist or essence. The main thing to remember is that polyglutamic acid attracts moisture, so layering hydrating products on after using it will help draw and retain that moisture within your skin.
Polyglutamic Acid Serum 30ml
The Giving Essence
Magic Serum Crystal Elixir
Midnight Renewal
Bisabolol: The skin soother
For an ingredient long used in skincare, haircare and make-up, bisabolol hasn’t yet had its moment in the sun. That is until now. A colourless oil derived from chamomile essential oil, bisabolol is used for several reasons: “It’s best known for its skin-soothing properties,” Dr Ross Perry, medical director of Cosmedics skin clinics describes. “It’s an anti-inflammatory and helps to improve skin pigmentation, treat dry skin and help counteract premature ageing. It helps restore balance to the skin’s natural protective barrier and reduce damage caused to the outer layer.” The best bit? It works for all skin types – particularly dry, sensitive, angry or irritated skin. And, when used in haircare can counteract the tight, itchiness that comes with dryness and dandruff.
Jet Lag Mask
Night Star Serum
Jet Lag Skin Soothing Hydration Mist
Max Factor Miracle Pure Serum Foundation 30ml very deep 100 to 110 30ml very deep 100 110
Lactobacillus: The microbiome restorer
If lactobacillus sounds like a supplement you might take in the morning to help your gut, you’re not far off. A type of probiotic bacteria, lactobacillus is a “good” strain of bacteria that helps maintain the balance of your skin’s microbiome, as well as the integrity of the skin barrier. (It can also be taken orally to help with your gut microbiome but we don’t suggest swallowing your skincare. Instead, find a high quality supplement like The Nue Co. Pre + Probiotic or Thorne Women’s Daily Probiotic. For now, though, back to skincare.) “Lactobacillus is an anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, hydrating skincare ingredient that can help to soothe irritation, reduce redness and protect against harmful bacteria,” Dr Idriss says. “It’s usually used in products that target sensitive skin, eczema or acne as it helps restore the skin’s equilibrium.”
One to earmark for the winter months, lactobacillus can help repair the skin as it deals with changing temperatures (cold weather outside and central heating and fires inside), a lack of moisture in the air and less sleep and more sugar than usual (hello, December). It’s also good to keep on hand for flare-ups and reactions.
Molecular Saviour Probiotics Treatment Mist 50ml
Probiotic Eye Contour Cream 15ml
Vitamin C + Lactic Dewy Deep Cream
Propolis: The healing honey
Look up any homemade skincare recipe and it’ll likely include honey. A natural humectant (draws water towards it), honey can act as a hydrating ingredient but also as a seal – bees use it to seal and protect their hives – helping to trap hydration inside the skin and minimise transepidermal water loss (moisture lost from the skin into the atmosphere). “Propolis is a resin-like ingredient made by bees. It’s incredibly rich in vitamins and minerals which directly benefits the skin,” describes Dr Perry. It’s a powerful healing ingredient, best loved for it’s anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial elements. Think of it as a reparative agent for when your skin needs extra protection from the outside world.
Honey Savior Skin Repair Salve
Warming Honey Cleanser
Lip Care Balm for Dry Chapped Lips
Intensive Propolis + Ferulic Acid Perfecting Face Cream
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