Gabriela Hearst Men’s Fall 2025 Is Full of Personality — but Not Too Much
Getting out of the U.S. after the presidential inauguration was a welcome distraction for designer and activist Gabriela Hearst.
“I’m here, out of Trumpland,” she said via Zoom from her Paris studio, where she was showing her men’s fall 2025 collection, and gearing up for her women’s fall 2025 runway show in March.
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Much of Hearst’s brand DNA has been built around the divine feminine (her current fixation is the work of archaeologist Marija Gimbutas studying matrilineal societies in Old Europe). But she has a male archetype in mind, too, she said.
“We prayed female for thousands of years. We prayed more female than to a male god. And I find it so remarkable of the hundreds of figurines from [Gimbutas’] 30 years of excavation, just a few were male. There was a complete veneration of women’s powers and capacities. So it’s the man that respects that and sees that, and there aren’t many,” she said.
They’re a luxury, like Hearst’s menswear, which continues to expand its vocabulary with sustainable materials, soft texture, color and craft, exuding a rugged but sensitive strength that stands apart from the dull grays and beiges of some of her brand peers. It has personality — but not too much.
“The colors of the collection are a preview of what you’ll see for women’s, and there’s a lot,” she said of leaning into the color therapy of monochromatic dressing in hues such as cobalt blue, burnt sienna, rust and antelope orange, and colorful accents woven through chocolate brown and denim. (The palette was inspired by her own watercolor paintings made using a set of house paint pigments a friend gifted her from Spain, where colorful quarters in Seville and elsewhere are an eternal delight.)
Take, for instance, the 100 percent recycled dark denim trucker jacket; it was lined in the fun charcoal and colorful pin-striped cashmere that was also crafted into streamlined but soft suiting, which was the name of the game for the season. The same vivid colors were also woven into speckled knits, and rendered in new colored denim pieces. In more neutral-hued territory, fall’s statement sweater was a great-looking chunky fisherman with shearling woven into the cables, while other knits were made from a tactile bouclé.
Denim and workwear pieces gave the collection a new range. Adding to her suede and leather core offerings, including car coats, chore and aviator jackets, were repurposed mink jackets made from vintage fur coats patched together. Is she afraid of animal rights activists? “I’m only afraid of Trump and the far right to be honest,” she quipped, noting that the fur is ethically sourced. “It comes from living on a ranch where you reuse everything.”
To the ever-expanding world of men’s handbags, Hearst offered a handsome hobo, and she collaborated with Naples’ famous E. Marinella on silk faille neckties made from archival remnants offering that IYKYK extra.
Hearst also debuted her eco Ohio sneaker for men. “We wanted a sneaker that goes well with a suit because tailoring is such a big part of our business,” she said, pointing out the colorful speckled recycled rubber sole, before drifting back to U.S. politics again.
“At least the EU bloc continues to be predominantly concerned about sustainability. So if you’re manufacturing in Europe, you’re in a better spot.”
Launch Gallery: Gabriela Hearst Fall 2025 Men’s Ready-to-Wear Collection
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