Are Hair Oils Necessary for Oily Hair? 4 Experts Explain

The use of hair oil can be traced back many centuries and across multiple cultures, including to India where the ancient ritual of working natural oils into the hair is used to promote healthy hair. “The practice is tied to Ayurvedic medicine, which is based on the Hindu idea of a balanced body,” says Kristina Collins, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist and co-owner of Austin Skin.

Meet Our Expert

• Kristina Collins, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist and co-owner of Austin Skin.

• Dr. Iris Rubin, MD, is the co-founder and chief medical officer of SEEN.

• Garrett Markenson is a hairstylist and founder of REVERIE.

• Sophia Emmanuel is a NYC-based trichologist and owner of Crown Worthy.

Today, adding nutrient-rich oils filled with vitamins and fatty acids to the hair has become a popular way to moisturize, nourish, and strengthen strands. The question is: can those with oily hair benefit from using hair oil? According to the experts, yes.

What is Hair Oil?

“Hair oils—such as coconut, jojoba, and argan—strengthen and hydrate the hair while acting as a barrier against heat styling,” says Iris Rubin, MD, the co-founder and chief medical officer of SEEN. “They can also help improve hair’s texture, including [by] taming frizz and adding shine.”

“Some lightweight oils like argan and avocado have the ability to penetrate the hair shaft and deliver nutrients, while heavier oils including olive and canola oil work to create a seal, coating strands and protecting them against damage caused by heat or UV rays,” adds Garrett Markenson, a hair stylist and founder of REVERIE. 

Benefits of Using Hair Oil on Oily Hair

“Although it may seem counterintuitive, using oil on oily hair can be beneficial,” Markenson says. “Oils create a barrier against heat or environmental factors, and some, like jojoba oil, mimic the scalp’s natural oils to help regulate excess sebum production.”

If you have oily hair, though, it’s important to keep oil off your scalp. “Adding oil to an already oily scalp can feed bacteria and yeast, which may contribute to dandruff and an itchy scalp. It can also encourage limp hair that lacks volume,” says Sophia Emmanuel, a NYC-based trichologist and owner of Crown Worthy.

Keep in mind that while these oils have conditioning properties, they're not a replacement for conditioner. “Conditioners are formulated to hydrate, detangle, and fortify the hair immediately after shampooing, whereas hair oils provide targeted benefits like sealing in moisture, protecting against frizz, and adding shine," says Dr. Rubin. Conditioners and hair oils work best when used together as part of a complementary routine, Markenson adds: “The conditioner should be part of your wash routine and the hair oil should be used as a treatment or finishing touch."

Best Hair Oils for Oily Hair

For oily hair, choose a lightweight oil that doesn’t weigh hair down and leave a greasy residue. “I prefer jojoba, avocado, and sweet almond oil for those with oily hair, because they help balance sebum production and reduce overall oiliness,” says Dr. Collins. Markenson prefers abyssinian, marula and argan oils.

If you have oily hair, you may be more likely to have oily and/or acne-prone skin. “This means you have to be extra careful when it comes to oil coming in contact with your skin,” says Dr. Rubin. “Look for non-comedogenic, linoleic-rich oils that are less likely to clog pores such as squalane, sunflower oil, and rosehip oil.”

How to Apply Hair Oil on Oily Hair

It’s best to apply oil only on the driest parts of the hair, typically the mid-length to the ends. The amount you should use will depend on your hair type and density. You can apply an oil as a pre-shampoo conditioner for fifteen minutes before washing for maximum penetration. Add it to towel-dried hair to lock in hydration, or rub it on dry ends to smooth frizz and prevent split ends. “I also recommend using it as an overnight treatment,” says Markenson.

Hair Oiling for People with Oily Hair

Hair oiling, otherwise known as hair slugging, is a centuries-old tradition of applying oil directly to the hair and scalp to help lock in moisture.

“Often, the oil is warmed before application, massaged throughout the scalp and hair, and then kept on overnight under a cap,” says Dr. Collins. “I usually recommend this practice for those who have dry, coarse hair and a very dry scalp, but if someone with an oily scalp would like to try slugging, they should keep the oil off their scalp and concentrate on the mid-shaft to the ends of the hair. Those with dry hair can use a thicker oil like marula, while those with oilier hair should reach for a lighter, noncomedogenic oil like jojoba or grapeseed oil.”

Risks of Using Oil on Oily Hair

Creating an overly oily environment on the scalp can exacerbate seborrheic dermatitis and cause the hair to appear limp, dull and greasy. “The buildup of oils can weigh hair down and clog follicles, so it’s a good idea to use it sparingly and limit oil-based deep conditioning treatments to once per week,” says Dr. Collins, who suggests rinsing with a clarifying shampoo.

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