The Harper: Boutique hotel drives off the beaten track in North Norfolk
‘Irreverent’ is how they like to describe The Harper, a bold addition to the boutique hotel scene in north Norfolk, adding an extra splash of colour to a particularly pretty, unspoiled corner of the county.
‘Inaccessible’ might once have been the word, but with the dualling of the previously congested A11 - and now a special new partnership with a luxury car-hire firm based in EC1, aimed at providing ‘seamless travel’ - it’s an easy enough drive from London to this laid-back coastal-countryside retreat. Especially at the wheel of a luxurious Range Rover…
It’s hard to believe as you roll into the courtyard on arrival, but just a few years ago this was the site of a glass-blowing factory. That business left Langham and relocated nearby, allowing a developer to move in and convert the premises, conjuring up a hotel complete with 32 rooms, spa, bar, lounge, restaurant and den, all arranged around a large central courtyard open to the big Norfolk skies.
Refurb complete – and a clutch of private cottages erected on-site - the building was taken over by the Cutmore-Scott family, comprising a mother-and-father-and-son team whose decades-long experience in the hospitality and wedding business bubbles through in the playful presentation of this unusually-styled, well-run hotel.
Spirited away
Converting what could easily have been a clankingly cavernous - potentially characterless - space, took a certain kind of genius. But it works. The artfully designed interior, complete with old beams criss-crossing the upper floors, a cosy, spirited hideaway with pleasing surprises around every corner – belies the plain flint-and-brick outer shell.
Take, for instance, the unique, hand-made furniture, including re-purposed industrial-chic tables, cupboards and lighting. Or the warm leather-and-fabric couches laid out under extravagant outsize timber chandeliers or against warm, exposed brickwork.
If you’re expecting a historic country manor house experience, forget it; the vibe here owes more to the light touch of an open-plan, contemporary loft or warehouse apartment.
To stop it all looking too industrial, there are colourful contemporary artworks on the walls, giant volumes of modern art sitting on tables in the lounge next to the games shelf, lots of new stained glass (of course) and even a flash of neon emblazoned along the wall in the restaurant; “Blow me away...”.
Irreverent? Not really, but certainly quirky and firmly in line with The Harper’s claim of offering a ‘contemporary take on the English country stay’.
The offbeat theme continues in the bedrooms, ranging from ‘Big’ to ‘Bigger’, ‘Biggest’ and ‘Biggest Plus’. Expect not just comfy mattresses, fine linen, soft mood lighting, big (smart) TV screens, high-end ‘smellies’ from Irene Forte Skincare and more wall art, but unique hand-fashioned minibar/tea trolleys fashioned from raw steel and reclaimed timber, in a conscious nod to that industrial past.
Even more fun - in our room - were two big old polished-steel safes (complete with those combination dials that master criminals pick in thrillers), pressed into service as statement-piece bedside tables. Complemented by more metal-and-timber-styled furniture, a big floor-standing arc lamp and - because pets are welcome - a fine, cosy, raised, wickerwork dog bed. Luxury for Fergal, our miniature Schnauzer.
Soft sell
The entertainment continues in the lobby where there’s a pool table, distressed fake-Med-antique-retro shutters on the walls, soft ‘industrial’ lighting... and more comfortable seating areas.
Leading off the lobby is a glitzy bar boasting velvet-covered seating in a range of eye-popping colours and more quirky artwork... in turn leading to the Den, where the accent is on intimate club-style leather upholstery, dark wood tones and more eye-catching pop art.
The best winter option here for guests is to snuggle down with one of The Harper’s soft, cotton-weave rugs while enjoying a favourite old movie on the giant TV projector screen... the bar (almost) within arm’s length.
Everything is gathered around a big, open, central ‘square’, a convivial gathering place of soft planting, discrete seating areas hugging log-burners, the occasional art installation and - at night - long strings of dreamy fairy lights.
It might all be fun but dining here is serious business too. Upstairs, in lofty, beam-crossed Stanley’s restaurant and next door in Ivy’s, painstaking care is taken with presentation, taste and inventive dishes. Starters include gems such as Bacon scone with British honey and clotted cream, or Candied beets, whipped ricotta, smoked oil and candied peanuts, or Shaved sprouts, Ranch dressing, blue cheese, candied hazelnuts and chestnut for starters.
For mains, how about Vadouvan curried cauliflower, dates, pickles and puffed rice, or Wild mushroom risotto with parsley, epoisses and shallots, or Stone bass with chorizo, butter bean cassoulet and dill, or Ribeye with truffle Baron Bigod ratte, Roscoff onion and bone sauce? The only problem is working out which to miss out on over your one, or two-night stay. Make sure it isn’t the come-back-for-more bacon scone.
They’re sensitive not just to guests’ and pets’ whims at The Harper, where the staff are informally cheerful and helpful, but to their heritage, too. There are pictures of the glass-blowers at work in the restaurant and - in the lobby – a display of the colourful glass birds, animals and other figures once created here. Outside, there is a claw-foot dog bath, complete with hose (hot and cold!) for post-beach rambles.
Guests wanting to work off that clotted cream bacon scone starter can head to the spa where there’s a swimming pool (long enough for a dozen strokes or so per lap, depending on energy levels), a jacuzzi and a sauna. Reception might even look after your dog while you splash about or lounge face-down on a couch in one of the treatment studios.
There’s more. There are family rooms and The Harper has taken over one of the new cottages in the grounds; this too can be booked. The owners have taken over the lease of the lovely old Bluebell pub a five-minute stroll away in this historic village, and bought the old Hall next door to convert it into more accommodation, with room for yoga and Pilates and - possibly - a gym. The dining experience is already impressive but soon The Harper will have a new two Michelin-starred chef, from Amsterdam.
Luxury drive
And that new collaboration, to whisk guests from the pressures of London with the promise of ‘taking the hassle out of travelling’? The Harper has teamed up with luxury London car rental firm The Out, which specialises in Land Rover products such as the Range Rover, Evoque and Defender, (offering guests a ten per cent discount), because not everyone has a car and even if they do, they might like to make a special weekend of it, in something a little posher than usual.
It’s not inexpensive but all extras are included in the price, including insurance, mileage, additional drivers, car seats, a bike rack or even a dog boot separator. The Out delivers to your door in time for departure and collects again at journey’s end, after your car is slicked with Norfolk sand and mud. Fortunately, they do the cleaning at journey’s end, not you.
We arrived in style, sitting high in a luxurious, spotless, Range Rover Sport as we glided into the further reaches of Norfolk. It did make it all seem even more special, particularly when we toured the nearby coast, walking the dog on seemingly endless Holkham beach, enjoying quaint Wells-next-the-Sea, charming old-world Cley and other-worldly Blakeney, before motoring back to The Harper for their own touches of luxury.
The Harper achieves its aim of providing a quirkily refreshing ‘reset’ in spades. Driving there in unaccustomed luxury is the icing on the cake.
The Facts
The Harper, North Street, Langham, Norfolk
Contact: 01328 805000, stay@theharper.co.uk
Rooms from £250 (Big, B&B)
The Out
hello@theout.com, via WhatsApp on +447572786949 (WhatsApp only)
Prices: from £156 per day (based on a 3-day rental)
Free car delivery in London zones 1-5
