How to Do an At-Home Chemical Peel Safely

Sam Escobar
·15 min read

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The headline on the press release was: “FDA Warns Against Purchasing or Using Chemical Peel Skin Products”—and the Allure group chat when wild. But what about the Shani Darden chemical peel kit we all use before every big event, presentation, and photo op? And the Dennis Gross peel pads that some of us have been in a steady relationship with for over two decades now? We looked for clarification and found it pretty quickly.

The FDA warning, issued in 2024, concerned at-home peel products containing acids such as trichloroacetic (or TCA), glycolic, salicylic, and lactic in extremely high concentrations that can cause chemical burns, swelling, and even permanent disfigurement. The warning listed specific products of concern sold via Amazon, Walmart, and other retail platforms. Some contained 100% TCA, others 70% glycolic acid.

Our beloved Shani Darden peel, on the other hand, contains a trio of acids with concentrations under 10%. And those Dennis Gross peel pads? They contain five acids with concentrations that are also significantly lower than the FDA warning.

We get it, though: Even without scary FDA warnings, at-home facial peels can be intimidating. The mental picture that comes with the word “peel” doesn’t do the treatment any favors. But if you use one correctly, it can unlock a smoother, glowier, happier complexion without you having to set foot in a dermatologist’s office (and without making skin visibly slough away). So in this new year we have decided to dig into how you can best—and most safely—use at-home peels. There are a lot more options available than when we first discovered Dr. Gross’s pads in 2000, and more than a few things to consider: Which particular acids should you use for your specific skin concern (for instance, peels containing salicylic acid work wonders on acne); what should the concentration of those acids be (the FDA is correct: a treatment that’s too potent will burn you); and which format best fits into the rest of your skin-care routine (because there are many different formats).

Meet the experts:

  • Rachel Westbay, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical in New York City.

  • Mona Gohara, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor at the Yale School of Medicine’s Department of Dermatology.

  • Sheila Farhang, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Avant Dermatology and Aesthetics in Beverly Hills.

  • Brendan Camp, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology and a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College.

In this story:

What is a chemical peel?

A chemical peel is anything that "peels" the skin by loosening the fluid that binds cells to the upper layers of skin and does it with a chemical (most commonly glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids) rather than physical scrubbing, as with beads or granules, or via heat damage, as a laser does. By removing old, damaged skin cells, peels get rid of dullness, discoloration, and uneven texture. “They also help the skin regenerate, yielding new collagen, boosting hyaluronic acid production, and increasing the thickness of the skin,” Wilma Bergfeld, MD, a director in the dermatology department at the Cleveland Clinic, previously told Allure.

The ingredients in a chemical peel aren’t new or buzzy or sexy or fresh—and that’s why we love them. We can point to piles of evidence that prove they can transform skin. The acids used in peels can also be found in facial cleansers and acne spot treatments, but peels offer them in higher concentrations for faster, more thorough exfoliation. In other words: more dramatic results. Your acne serum, for example, might be spiked with 2% lactic acid, while an at-home chemical peel system is formulated with 10%.

At-home peels come in a range of formats, such as serums, peel pads, multistep kits, and toners, that cater to what you need from your skin-care routine. Do you prefer an apply-it-then-forget-it overnight serum? Perhaps you’d rather a twice-weekly toner pad regimen. In any case, there is a formula for you—many of them are even safe for sensitive skin.

In fact, a lot of dermatologists recommend chemical peel products for sensitive types because they can go easier on skin than vitamin A derivatives, those other old-school ingredients that have heaps of data behind them. “Acids don't work like retinoids, which repair skin by kick-starting inflammation,” Boston-based dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, MD, previously told Allure. “They dissolve the upper layer of cells to trigger repair.”

Long before there were at-home chemical peel options (much less the option of buying pure trichloroacetic acid at a place called Amazon), dermatologists have been using acids in office to resurface and rejuvenate the skin, addressing issues such as pitted acne scars and melasma. These trained professionals can safely wield far higher concentrations of acids than we can at home, though, going up to 70% glycolic acid, for example, in a single treatment to reverse more serious sun damage (after one to two weeks of downtime). The strongest chemical peel available is the phenol peel, which has been administered by doctors for a century but is so potentially toxic that its use requires cardiac monitoring. Do not try the phenol peel at home.

What are the best acids to look for?

As you browse the options in the skin-care aisle, scan each item’s ingredient list for acids that directly address your specific skin concern. And please enjoy this cheat sheet.

For clearer skin, look for salicylic acid.

Maximum concentration recommended for at-home use: 2%.

To treat acne and prevent future breakouts, Rachel Westbay, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical in New York City, suggests looking for peels that contain salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid that penetrates deeply to unclog pores. In peels, this ingredient is often paired with other acids, like lactic or glycolic, in higher concentrations.

The Allure Best of Beauty-winning Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial combines 1% salicylic acid with 10% azelaic acid to refine pores and visibly boost radiance. In contrast to the product’s playful orange packaging and cute name, though, this formula packs a serious punch. “While azelaic acid combined with salicylic acid is nothing new, I have not seen the salicylic acid concentration so high in a product containing azelaic acid,” Kenna Whitnell, a cosmetic chemist, previously told Allure.

Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial Brightening Mask

$69.00, Ulta Beauty

To alleviate acne scarring, look for glycolic acid.

Concentration recommended for at-home use: 5-10%.

If you’re looking to address the aftermath of a particularly intense breakout, Dr. Westbay recommends glycolic acid peels to fade that hyperpigmentation: “They exfoliate the skin’s surface and reduce acne-related scarring.” Board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, echoes this, crediting the small molecular size of glycolic acid for its efficacy. It’s important to note, though, that deep scarring that considerably changes the texture of your skin shouldn’t be treated at home with glycolic acid; you have to see a dermatologist for that.

The Origins Youthtopia Liquid Exfoliating Apple Face Peel contains glycolic acid plus apple stem cell extract, apple peel ferment, and apple cider vinegar to gently encourage a more radiant complexion. “It’s gentle on my extra-dry, sensitive skin,” says senior editor Jesa Marie Calaor, who saw a brighter, even complexion after two weeks of consistent use. “And yes,” she adds, “it smells like apples.”

Youthtopia Liquid Exfoliating Apple Face Peel

$44.00, Nordstrom

AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

$10.00, Amazon

We also love The Ordinary AHA 30% and BHA 2% Peeling Solution. This no-frills serum that is effective and affordable at just $10. But “it should be used sparingly by those with experience with peels,” cautions Dr. Gohara, who recommends it be applied as a thin, even layer no more than once a week. “It’s quite potent.”

To smooth lines, look for lactic acid.

Concentration recommended for at-home use: 5-10%.

To be clear, there is nothing wrong with your crow’s feet or smile lines, but if you’re looking to soften their appearance, Dr. Gohara suggests picking up products that contain lactic acid, which helps with cell turnover and acts as a natural moisturizing factor. The end result: a plumped-up, glowing appearance. “The ingredient can smooth fine lines by encouraging collagen production without being overly harsh,” she explains.

One of the Allure team’s favorite peels is the Shani Darden Triple Acid Signature Peel, which is formulated with lactic acid. It’s a 2023 and 2024 Best of Beauty winner that also counts doctors, like board-certified dermatologist Sheila Farhang, MD, among its fans. “Shani Darden’s Triple Acid Signature Peel is a great home peel,” says Dr. Farhang, lauding its use of several acids (lactic, glycolic, and mandelic) and the second step of applying a clay mask to further clear out pores.

Triple Acid Signature Peel

$125.00, Violet Grey

To even out texture, look for mandelic acid.

Maximum concentration recommended for at-home use: 10%.

If you’ve tried every smoothing makeup primer and blurring base and are looking for a less fleeting solution, a peel with mandelic acid may be an ideal choice. “Mandelic acid is a gentler exfoliant that is ideal for sensitive skin while improving texture,” says Dr. Gohara. It’s a great option for those who are cautiously wading into chemical exfoliation territory for the first time.

Dermalogica PowerBright Dark Spot Peel

$79.00, Dermalogica

The Dermalogica PowerBright Dark Spot Peel is formulated with mandelic, glycolic, and tranexamic acids to smooth bumpy areas and lift hyperpigmentation. While it does work quickly—our tester saw results in just five days—it remains gentle on even the most sensitive skin types.

Which at-home facial peel format should you use?

Now that you know which acids to look for, you might be wondering about using them in a pad, serum, toner, or all of the above. We’re here to help.

Peel pads

Peel pads are perhaps the most user-friendly of all the at-home facial peel products. “They are easy to use, the most mess-free, and typically gentle enough for all skin types, even sensitive,” says Dr. Westbay.

Peel pads, made with ingredients that help accelerate the exfoliation process, should be used just two or three times a week to start. This will avoid upsetting the delicate balance of your skin barrier, says Brendan Camp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology and a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College. After your skin gets used to this format, you can use your pad of choice daily. We love the M-61 PowerGlow Peel, which contains glycolic and salicylic acids to exfoliate and boost radiance.

To avoid effects such as redness, flaking, and dryness, Dr. Camp suggests using a hydrating moisturizer after each peel pad. Try the Eau Thermale Avène Cicalfate+ Hydrating Skin Recovery Emulsion, which soothes skin with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and Avène’s signature thermal spring water.

M-61 Powerful Skincare PowerGlow Peels

$68.00, Bluemercury

Eau Thermale Avène Cicalfate+ Hydrating Skin Recovery Emulsion

$38.00, Amazon

Overnight serums

Patience is a virtue in life; in skin care it’s often a necessity. Some peels offer near-instant radiance, but other products work their magic over time, including—despite their moniker—overnight serums. “Overnight serums are ideal for deeper exfoliation and gradual results,” says Dr. Gohara. “They work while you sleep and are good for targeting fine lines, texture, or mild hyperpigmentation over time.”

Overnight serums often contain alpha hydroxy acids (usually glycolic and lactic) and beta hydroxy acids (often salicylic) that work together to remove dead skin cells and reveal the brighter skin beneath. Dr. Westbay recommends this at-home peel type particularly for people with combination skin because overnight serums “are able to target the oily and dry areas of the face,” thanks to the coordinated blend of acids. Try the Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment, which is powered by AHAs (glycolic, lactic, and malic) and fruit enzymes to gently smooth skin while you sleep.

Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment

$68.00, Dermstore

Tonics/Peeling Solutions

Looking for fast and thorough exfoliation? A peeling solution may be your ideal format, says Dr. Westbay, as they typically feature high concentrations of acid that work to exfoliate deeper levels. Don’t reach for these more than two times per week, even though the frequency “is very dependent on your skin and the product.” That said, if you’ve got sensitive or compromised skin, Dr. Westbay advises against using this type of peel because it can lead to further irritation.

The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Toner

$14.00, Amazon

Try Dr. Gohara’s pick, The Ordinary AHA 30% and BHA 2% Peeling Solution, or the Inkey List’s Glycolic Acid toner—a water-like formula that contains 10% glycolic acid and witch hazel to help minimize the appearance of pores.

Multistep kits

Yes, there is more than one step involved, but at-home peel kits can work wonders for those who diligently follow instructions. Multistep kits work great for targeting specific issues and for those with multiple skin-care concerns because they provide a one-two punch of exfoliation followed by a hydrating, or “neutralizing,” step, says Dr. Gohara, who recommends they be used once a month as more intensive treatments. Try Shani Darden Triple Acid Signature Peel (sorry, it’s hard for us to stop shouting it out), Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel (can you tell we love the stuff?), or the IS Clinical Active Peel System (a favorite of Dr. Farhang’s).

Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

$20.00, Amazon

iS Clinical Active Peel System

$96.00, Amazon

How to safely use an at-home peel

Every peel product has its own set of directions that you should read (and then read again!), but dermatologists do offer a few tips to help ensure your peel experience goes smoothly.

Perform a patch test.

A little preliminary testing can go a long way, so if you’re the type who always skips this step when trying a new hair color, heed Dr. Gohara’s words of wisdom: “Patch test the product on a small area of your skin, like behind your ear, to ensure you won’t have a severe reaction.”

Start with a clean slate.

Dr. Westbay recommends starting with skin that has been cleansed of dirt, oil, and makeup and allowing it to dry before applying your peel. “Damp skin can enhance absorption [of acids] and increase the risk of irritation,” she says.

Avoid sensitive areas.

Peels don’t have to be an allover treatment. In fact, suggests Dr. Westbay, skip the skin around your lips and eyes as those areas can be particularly sensitive.

Remember to moisturize.

“Make sure to apply a moisturizer after using a peel to help restore the integrity of the skin barrier,” says Dr. Camp. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides to help soothe the skin and lock in moisture.

Less (often) is more.

No matter the ingredients you turn to or the brands you choose, our experts advise a cautious approach to the frequency of using at-home peels. Dr. Farhang warns that “peels shouldn’t be used very often.” Once or twice a week is usually sufficient, says Dr. Gohara, adding that too frequent use can damage the skin barrier.

Don’t skimp on sunscreen.

One thing you shouldn’t take a less-is-more approach with, though, is sunscreen. “Chemical exfoliants increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV rays, so using sunscreen is non-negotiable when using peel pads,” says Dr. Westbay. Dr. Gohara also warns that “failing to wear SPF can lead to hyperpigmentation and further irritation.”

Dr. Westbay recommends applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every morning, then reapplying every couple hours—especially if you plan to spend time outdoors. Not sure which sun protection to turn to? Check out this roundup of tried-and-true sunscreens beloved by Allure editors.

Which products don’t play well with peels?

Skin conditions such as eczema, contact allergies, and rosacea may indefinitely rule out the use of at-home peels for some folks, as well as specific products and medications that can also temporarily make the use of at-home peels unsafe.

Physical exfoliants

To put it plainly, skip the sloughing process if you plan to use an at-home peel. Dr. Gohara warns that “scrubs and brushes can cause microtears in the skin when used alongside chemical exfoliants.”

Retinoids

According to Dr. Gohara, retinol and tretinoin can be “too irritating in combination with acids and can increase the risk of peeling, redness, and sensitivity.” Dr. Camp recommends stopping the use of these products and other exfoliants a few days before adding a peel to your skin-care routine.

Benzoyl peroxide

This popular acne-treating ingredient “can be too drying when paired with a peel,” says Dr. Gohara.

So, according to the FDA, which peels should you avoid using at home?

Now back to that FDA warning: The government’s caveat emptor on at-home peels was intended to highlight the dangers that come with using specific peels that are simply too powerful to use at home. And it’s a good reminder that the dose makes the poison.

Lactic acid can help smooth lines and make skin look more plump with no risk—at a 5 to 10% concentration. One of the peel solutions highlighted by the FDA contains a whopping 90% concentration of lactic acid. That’s far more acid than anyone should ever be dropping at home.

Another peel product flagged by the FDA is 100% trichloroacetic acid, which “can cause severe chemical burns, deep tissue damage, permanent scarring, hypopigmentation, and possible infection if used improperly,” says Dr. Gohara, who adds that this concentration is typically used for spot-treating deep scars in controlled, clinical settings. So, please, do not try that at home.

Learn more about skin treatments:

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Originally Appeared on Allure

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