Ib Kamara's guide to Freetown, Sierra Leone: Tokeh Beach, cassava leaf stew and Empire nightclub
Where is your favourite destination and why?
Freetown, Sierra Leone. It’s always like going back home — it’s where I was born and I have family there. It’s amazing and you have everything: the beach, mountains, so much green and the sea, but it’s also a busy city. My most vivid memories from growing up in Sierra Leone are of the street parades that were a legacy of the country’s colonial past. I grew up in the Nineties so one of my early memories were these celebrations, and just being bombarded by so much visual imagination walking down the street. It was almost like Notting Hill Carnival, but on steroids. People just did the most amazing costumes, lanterns and floats.
When was the last time you were there, and who were you with?
April this year with a friend. I try to go as much as I can — usually about twice a year — but it’s difficult to get away from work sometimes. I am trying to find ways to work with the country in terms of education and creativity. It’s beautiful and it’s safe; we had a long history of war, but for the past 20 years it’s been quite stable.
Where do you like to stay there?
My mum has a house in Goderich, so I usually stay there. It’s an area close to the beach, so I love it. I have been to The Lead Hotel before, and there are also a few more good hotels and Airbnbs — friends have stayed at the Toma Boutique Hotel, which also has a nice restaurant.
When should people visit?
I would say the best times of year are April and December; around April is our independence, and December everyone comes back home to see their grandmas and friends and family, so there is a real sense of joy. Expect great food and festivities. We really know how to party in Sierra Leone, so whenever there is a celebration, we’re there.
What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?
Probably spend as much time outside — go for a walk in the mountains and try to fit in the beach too. Tokeh Beach on the Freetown Peninsula is particularly beautiful. With its white powdery sand, fringed by palm trees and the rainforest-covered hills behind, it’s as close to perfect as you can get. Despite being not far from Freetown, it tends to be a bit quieter than other beaches on the peninsula.
What has been your favourite meal there?
You have to have cassava leaf stew and bissap, which is brewed hibiscus flowers with added vanilla and sugar. It tastes a bit like a sour Vimto. It’s something you can get in any local shop. I also love the food at Rooftop.
What is the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?
Go to see the Cotton Tree in the city centre. During a storm its branches were destroyed and now only the base of its trunk is still standing. It was about 400 years old and it is a historic symbol of Freetown. It’s like a national monument — there’s such a great feeling and vibe around the area.
Is there a hidden gem you are willing to share?
Not really a gem but the food is great. It’s nothing like anywhere else in the world. The most amazing thing about the city, to me, really is the vibe — everyone is friendly and has a hopeful attitude and outlook.
Where do you like to let your hair loose?
I spent my adolescent years in London in club culture, and was a club kid. If I’d have been in Sierra Leone during those years I would have been at Empire — it’s young, innovative, progressive. The music is from all over the continent. It’s a quirky space where the real citizens congregate from every demographic in the country. It’s much more of a democratic space, which I love, as opposed to most spaces that cater too much to elitism. If you want to really experience Sierra Leone, it’s good to be at real, local events with local programmes. You get the best of the people. You can also pick any club by the beach, it’s pretty lit, young and electric. When I was younger, I was fascinated watching what my uncles and aunties would wear to go clubbing. I wanted to be part of that scene.
Who do you call to have a good time there?
There’s this amazing human being called Franklyn Dero, he’s someone I’m really trying to champion because he is so talented. He has a shop, called Been Frank, and he runs arts programmes for young people wanting to learn about styling, photography, fashion. He is under 30, a young guy with so much passion and love for his country. When I’m in Freetown, I love to hang out with him. I’ve got a few good friends who live there, they always introduce me to cool people.
Your packing essential?
Sunscreen — it’s hot! I always have my Off-White denim on. My face creams are very important to me; my moisturiser, my toner. My skincare routine is important. Jackets, hoodies if I’m cold on the flight, and a trainer for when I need to go for a run.
A song that reminds you of the place?
Ngalungala by Sorie Kondi, who is known for playing a thumb piano. His music has a dance pulse, with the melody coming from the thumb piano and his incredible vocals.
Your dress code for the destination?
Super relaxed, shorts, vests … you’ve got to show some skin! I’ll pack a lot of T-shirts, shorts and denim and one boot — possibly with a heel — but I am quite relaxed in my dress there, because it’s very hot so you can’t layer much. The last time I was in Freetown the Barbie movie had just come out, so there was an all-pink Barbie night. It was so cute. They took it really seriously and all dressed up. There’s a sense of freedom of expression in fashion, we are quite free people in terms of thinking — so it’s very accepting. On a night out you’ll see a guy with blue hair, a pink jacket. Everyone wants to dress up and show their best fit. It’s like a rainbow on a night out. I’m proud of that.
Building you would like to live in?
It would be nice to stay at the State House…not sure that’s in the cards though!
Ib Kamara is creative director at Off-White and editor-in-chief of Dazed. He wears RIMOWA Original Bag, £1,590, rimowa.com
