Inside the Nostalgic Barneys New York Pop-Up
Few New York Fashion Week pop-ups can boast a giant golden Porta Potty that's landed atop a wicked witch clad in Marc Jacobs platform boots. Enter Hourglass's collaboration with Barneys New York: In celebration of Hourglass's 20th anniversary, the luxury cosmetics brand is returning to Barneys, the retailer it first launched with, via a limited-time concept shop spotlighting 40 fashion and beauty brands, seasoned and emerging labels alike.
Set to open on Sept. 5 and coincide with New York Fashion week, this buzzy partnership represents more than a homecoming for Hourglass. It's a chance to "pay it forward for this next generation of creatives and designer talent," Brooke Blashill, Hourglass's chief marketing officer, tells Fashionista.
"[Barneys] is the place that people went to be able to see what's new, and when that institution went away, we really lost that discovery zone," she says. "We wanted to be able to bring the best parts of Barneys together, but it's not about recreating it. Thinking about what's happening in today's shopping environment, how do we really create something that's special, that gives back to the designers, but also gives customers a really interesting, immersive shopping experience in downtown Manhattan?"
Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
Stationed across from the Elizabeth Street Garden on 14 Prince St., the Hourglass x Barneys pop-up will run for five weeks, and will feature a stacked lineup of fashion industry players: Thom Browne, Marc Jacobs, Khaite, Willy Chavarria, Area, Christopher John Rogers, Who Decides War and Luar.
But Julie Gilhart, former fashion director of Barneys, also curated the designer list to include newcomers such as Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, Colleen Allen, Aubero's Julian Louie, Agbobly, Elena Velez, Meruert Tolegen, Presley Oldham, Diotima and more. As for some of the beauty brands making an appearance, shoppers can expect to see Tatcha, AKT and Sky High Farm, among others.
"When Hourglass came to me, it was at a time when a lot of designers were calling me and asking me what to do, because the large stores have less budget for smaller emerging brands, and we're living in a time where business is not as easy," Gilhart says. "You have to work really hard. And then the same thing with the online platforms. And then a lot of designers don't have their own stores and they also know that DTC is really expensive to run to be successful on it, so that, in itself, was creating this angst."
Within the actual pop-up masterminded by former Barneys Creative Director and window display savant Simon Doonan, the design embodies Barneys' mantra: "Taste, luxury, humor." Whether it's a "The Wizard of Oz"-themed porta-potty-turned-changing-room or a four-foot-tall poodle crafted from Hourglass's products, Doonan kept Barneys' nostalgic design ethos top of mind. Capturing the retailer's knack for improvisational displays, Doonan also created three tables decoupaged in honor of three female writers: Jane Austen, Alice Walker and Isabel Allende.
"We always tried to be cheeky, unconventional, do stuff that other high end luxury stores weren't doing and distinguish ourselves that way, and that's what we did here, full on," Doonan says.
Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
Alongside exclusive shopping experiences and limited-edition products (including special editions of Hourglass's Ambient Lighting palette and an Unlocked Satin Crème lipstick duo), the space will hold events, such as appearances from KidSuper, Peter Som and influencer Nara Smith, who will celebrate Freds with a curated menu. Ella Emhoff — Vice President Kamala Harris's stepdaughter — also provided some of her artwork to include in the store.
Given the industry's increasingly challenging environment for up-and-coming brands, Hourglass has also teamed up with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) to provide scholarship funds for emerging talent that aims to help fund a future collection or ease fashion's financial barriers to entry. Once announced, the winning designer will then be welcomed into the pop-up space for their own brand's activation.
Keep scrolling to see images from inside the space.
Inside the Barneys x Hourglass pop-up. Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
Inside the Barneys x Hourglass pop-up. Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
Inside the Barneys x Hourglass pop-up. Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
Inside the Barneys x Hourglass pop-up. Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
Inside the Barneys x Hourglass pop-up. Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
Inside the Barneys x Hourglass pop-up. Photo: Courtesy of Hourglass
