Korean jelly nails are our new mani obsession – Here's why
I often refer to myself as a 'makeup magpie', or any kind of magpie, really. If something sparkles, I want it. If it looks cute, I want it. If it’s pink, I definitely want it. So, if something can tick all of the above boxes, you better believe I’m getting it. Enter: Korean jelly nails, which are a magpie’s dream, encompassing all things shiny, colourful, textured and delicious in the shape of a perfect manicure.
From aura nails to cat eye nails, Korean nail trends have a tendency to keep us in a chokehold once they make their way West. Alex Philamond, a nail artist who specialises in Japanese and Korean techniques, says this is down to innovation and ingenuity. “It’s exciting. Not many people in the UK showcase these styles yet."
Some might say the recent success of Korean nail trends is a direct response to the “clean girl” trends of recent years, which project an unattainably kind of perfection including perfectly plain nails. Well could it be that we're finally tired of 'perfection'? Girls just wanna have fun, and joy-inducing nails are back, baby.
What are Korean jelly nails?
Korean jelly nails are exactly what they say they are: nails that look a bit like jelly. They’re scrumptious, vibrant, magical-looking, and very ASMR-coded. They look super shiny, squishy and might even feature 3D elements that are fun to fidget with. “Korean jelly nails encapsulate a juicy, extra-shiny aesthetic that’s both playful and sophisticated,” explains Georgia Cappella, Training and Education Manager at The Gel Bottle. “The term encompasses various Korean-inspired nail techniques and trends, such as glass nails, cat-eye nails, lip gloss nails, and syrup nails.”
A Korean jelly set can take everything you love about your favourite Korean styles, and use them all in one go. With this mani, more is more. In fact, the more sheer hues, intricate layers, and textures used, the more depth and jelly-like dimension is created. This leaves room for personalisation and fun.
Interestingly, “Korean jelly nails” is a Western term. “As Koreans, we wouldn't necessarily refer to our work as jelly nails,” admits @kkoht_nails on Instagram. Rather, this is a term coined by Westerners to describe a genre of Korean-inspired styles that don’t quite fit into any one traditional Korean nail trend.
How are jelly nails different to traditional gels or BIAB gels?
When I’ve had Korean jellies in the past, the process has been similar to my usual gel manicures. To the untrained eye, there isn’t much difference in formulas, only the final look. A Korean jelly manicure begins with prep; your old mani is filed or soaked off and your cuticles neatened before a base coat is applied, then colours and then you finish with a top coat. In this way, Korean jelly nails are similar to traditional soft gels and BIAB formulas.
Where they differ, though, is in texture. “Korean gels are usually thicker than traditional gels and come in different viscosities,” Jenny of Bebigirlnails tells me. “The products usually self-level a lot better and are easy to work with,” she adds. She also tells me that, unlike a lot of popular brands in the UK, most Korean brands offer non-yellowing polishes or polishes that promise low or no heat spikes, with non-scratch top coats to boot.
Alex reveals much of the same, explaining that the Korean gels used for jelly nails come in “dewy consistencies” that deliver sheer colours without streaks. “Opacity is built with layers,” he explains. “The colours are very easily blendable, which makes for these exquisite aesthetics where the pigments blur into each other.”
You can also use glass colours, which are common in the UK, to create Korean jelly nails by mixing them with other colours and bases until you get your desired, juicy finish. “It’s all about how colours are layered and mixed,” says Alex, “it’s very open-ended, which is why it’s such a captivating trend.”
Is a Korean jelly nail manicure better for your nails?
All of my experts agreed that Korean formulas are often formulated with fewer of what could be consider to be “harmful” ingredients. Take HEMA (or hydroxyethyl methacrylate) for example, which is an ingredient that helps bind polish to the nail, but has come under fire in recent years for causing allergic reactions. One popular Korean nail brand, Kkookie Nail Supply, says, “Most [of our] products are HEMA-free. For products that contain HEMA, [they contain] less than 20%, well within safety regulations.” Thanks to this standard seen across the board, Alex says Korean gels are considered to be some of the healthiest options out there. On the other hand, if you use non-Korean brands to get the look of Korean jelly nails, then your Korean jelly manicure will be no better or worse for your nails than a regular soft gel mani.
Are Korean jelly nails expensive?
There can be a difference in price between Korean brands and brands you might already be used to so, if you opt for a Korean jelly manicure using traditional Korean formulas, then you might find your manicure is a little more expensive. “We haven’t always had access to these formulas due to taxes or expensive shipping,” notes Alex. “And Korean gels are of superlative quality, so you can expect the cost of a Korean gel manicure to reflect this.” If you want to keep costs low, you’ll have to opt for a Korean-inspired jelly set without the actual Korean gels.
How do you remove Korean jelly nails?
When the time comes, you can remove your beloved Korean jellies (sob) like you can most soft gels: by soaking them in an acetone-based remover and then scraping them off with a cuticle pusher. I recommend seeing a professional to remove any kind of gel manicure, because you don’t want to risk damaging your nail plate. Professionals might even opt for a drill to file your jelly manicure off, but they should only do this with the proper training so as to avoid weakening your precious nails.
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