Martin Grant Fall 2025: Master of Minimalism
Martin Grant may have stepped off the fashion merry-go-round, but his brand is alive and well.
As he prepares for a major career retrospective, due to open at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne in March, the Australian designer stopped off in Paris to present his fall collection, a sort of “greatest hits” compilation of his signature looks.
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Think pea jackets, trenchcoats and wide-legged pants that telegraph relaxed confidence. Having closed his showroom and atelier in the capital and moved permanently to the South of France, Grant continues to work with a clutch of retailers such as Moda Operandi.
Producing just two collections a year, he updates archival styles with new fabrics and colors — this season, a zesty shade of mimosa yellow, used on a slightly oversize A-line pea jacket, pencil skirt or belted wrap dress.
“It’s not like the pressure of having to invent something new each season. Also, I’m using pretty much all stock fabrics,” he explained. “So it’s a nice, ethical way of working as well.”
Having used up his remaining supplies of fabric, he sources materials from deadstock suppliers and said he recognizes the manufacturer just by touch. “These companies, I’ve been working with them for so many years that you can just tell,” Grant said.
His innate feel for fabrics is what differentiates his creations, whether a double-breasted hourglass jacket in wool and mohair, a military-inspired silk and wool trenchcoat, or a swishy taffeta midi skirt, paired with a matching puff-sleeve pussy bow blouse.
With minimalism having a moment, it’s easy to see why the time felt right for the “Martin Grant” exhibition, billed as the first comprehensive overview of his career from the mid-1980s to the present day.
Grant’s creations sit in the wardrobes of style icons such as Cate Blanchett, Meghan Markle and Queen Rania of Jordan — and while they’re designed to “last forever,” in his words, his customers are grateful that he’s not ready to hang up his scissors just yet.
“I know the pieces that they are looking for and that they go to and that they wear every day,” Grant said. “It’s not just pieces that sit in the wardrobe and then come out every now and again.”
Launch Gallery: Martin Grant Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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