There’s more to Ashland than Shakespeare — but the play’s still the thing

At the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland, the bard is just the start.

Theater lovers regularly spend their vacations in Ashland for the festival, which is also the reason Ashland is known as a mecca for retired English teachers. But you don’t need to watch a play a day to have a good time: The Rogue Valley offers plenty of other attractions, including river-rafting adventures.

You also don’t need to worship Shakespeare to enjoy the festival — though you might not want to admit that in this town. The 89-year-old festival is a major reason the area is such a draw for tourists and it seems that half of the business names pay homage to the bard and his characters.

Of the six plays currently running, just three — “Much Ado About Nothing,” “Macbeth” and the rarely presented “Coriolanus” — are by Shakespeare. Also happening are three contemporary plays, including an adaption of Charlotte Brontë’s “Jane Eyre.”

The 2024 festival season — the fullest since COVID, though still smaller than those in the before times — also has included four new one-person plays with short runs. The last of these, “Behfarmaheen” (July 31-Sept. 15), is an autobiographical piece by OSF actor Barzin Akhavan, who immigrated from Iran.

Herewith, a guide to some of the best things to do in Ashland and environs.

I. Get thee to the Elizabethan Theater.

The plays are the thing, after all, and the open-air theater, patterned after the theaters of Shakespeare’s time, is an attraction in itself. It’s a setting that’s as different from most theaters as a drive-in is from a cineplex. Seeing the sky darken and the moon rise adds to what’s happening on stage. And shows begin with the sound of a trumpet.

In the Elizabethan this year are “Much Ado About Nothing” (through Oct. 12) and the West Coast premiere of Elizabeth Williamson’s adaptation of “Jane Eyre” (through Oct. 11).

Though the ending in this production isn’t entirely happy, this “Much Ado” turns the comedic dial up to 11, with one memorable scene that seems to have been inspired by Bugs Bunny.

It’s also been transformed into a musical. Traditionalists might see that as gilding the lily, but for those who aren’t sure about Shakespeare, the songs’ contemporary language makes the story easily accessible.

Williamson’s “Eyre” showcases the feminism of Charlotte Brontë’s Gothic romance, widely considered the first feminist novel, and offers reminders — including costumes in which women wear pants beneath open-front skirts — how little has changed since Brontë’s time.

Do beware, however: Air quality in Ashland can be an issue during the summer, sometimes leading to the cancellation of outdoor shows.

II. Catch something unexpected on stage.

The other plays currently open — even those that date back to the late 16th century — are novel.

Sean San José’s 2023 translation of “Coriolanus” (through Oct. 13) tells the bard’s tale of political folly through the eyes of the lower classes as well as the patricians. Performed by a cast of female and non-binary performers and produced in cooperation with Seattle’s acclaimed upstart crow collective, this tale of a war hero who can’t hide his lack of empathy has a contemporary and dystopian feel that’s a bit reminiscent of “The Hunger Games.”

“Macbeth” (through Oct. 12) is told as a horror tale, with the witches serving at least as much as the agents of the supernatural as manifestations of the Macbeths’ increasingly fragile mental states.

Liz Duffy Adams’ 2022 “Born With Teeth” (through Oct. 13) imagines the incisively witty and often sexy interaction between Shakespeare and Christopher Marlowe, the two of whom, research suggests, worked together on the Henry VI plays.

And then there’s “Lizard Boy” (through Oct. 12), a quirky and critically acclaimed comic-inspired indie-rock musical that has had audiences cheering with its message that being different is a good thing. The queer coming-of-age story is packed with Washington connections, too: Playwright and star Justin Huertas of Seattle was born in Tacoma, grew up in Mukilteo and graduated from Pacific Lutheran University; the show debuted in 2015 at Seattle Repertory Theatre; and the eruption of Mount St. Helens is a major plot point.

III. Hit the water.

For lovers of outdoor adventure, whitewater rafting is the top pick in the Ashland area. Multiple outfitters offer trips that range from half-day outings to multi-day adventures and are suitable for the cautious as well as the brave. You can also traverse the river in a kayak or jet boat or let it flow past you while you fish.

Other nearby natural wonders include Mount Ashland, a ski area that’s popular in summer for hiking, biking and disc golf, and Crater Lake. The lake is a beautiful site at any time of year and best visited in the summer, when enough snow has melted to permit visitors to explore in depth, and boat tours of the lake are available. Check weather and air-quality advisories before you go.

If a leisurely stroll is more your style, Ashland’s Lithia Park, adjoining the festival, is a popular place to stop.

IV. Spend a day in Jacksonville.

Jacksonville was founded in the 1850s as a gold mining town, and its historic district, which includes more than 100 historic buildings, is a National Historic Landmark. The town is home to Forest Park, a large park with lots of trails; plenty of shops and restaurants (check out Gogi’s) and the well-known Britt Music & Arts Festival, which hosts an orchestra as well as an array of popular concerts.

V. Have tea.

Ashland is one of those places where the hippie vibe can still be found — much like Olympia. One of the repositories of that vibe is Dobrá Tea, a downtown shop that features not only tea but also ceremonial cacao (delicious with or without any ceremony), kava (an herbal supplement that is definitely an acquired taste), bubble tea and lots of food, mostly gluten free and vegan.

Ashland is also home to the delightful Lovejoy’s Tea Room, which opened in 2021. This ever-so-cute tea shop offers a quintessential English tea experience, with a wide selection of teas, traditional and non-; a good gluten-free tea service, a rarity even at high-end tea rooms such as the one in Victoria, B.C.’s Fairmount Empress; and tables that are set with signs that say “reserved for the queen” or “reserved for the royal couple.” Reservations are needed for the full tea, but you can also drop in for tea and a bite.