Nensi Dojaka on her Calvin Klein partnership

Nensi Dojaka’s designs have always been informed by sensuality, so it made sense that in her return to London Fashion Week — her first show here in two seasons — she debuted a collaboration with Calvin Klein, the undisputed king of underwear.

The classically minimal brand blended well with Dojaka’s. Naturally, one informed the other, and Dojaka admits to turning to Calvin Klein for inspiration. “It’s a brand I’ve always loved and always referenced,” she tells Harper’s Bazaar. “It was about bringing my point of view and combining it to that of Calvin Klein — that minimal beauty of [the brand] that is done with beautiful precision.”

london, england september 14 editors note image contains nudity a model walks the runway at the nensi dojaka show during london fashion week september 2024 at st pancras renaissance hotel on september 14, 2024 in london, england photo by joe mahergetty images
Joe Maher

Her vision came to life by way of sheer black bodysuits and harnessed burgundy bras, each of which was showcased with cropped jackets and low-rise trousers with revealing thigh slits. Flowering ruffled dresses and airy, pleated capes also made their way down the catwalk. Together, the pieces created a balance (or at times, tension) between strength and softness. For Dojaka, her return to London Fashion Week is less of a comeback and more of an evolution.

The collection is designed to be flexible for more body types. “The small details of the past are now translated on a bigger scale, creating movement, which is quite new to the brand,” Dojaka says. “It’s about framing the fantasy in a more realistic context.”

The collaboration, Dojaka says, “⁠was an easy yes for me, because I wanted the opportunity to work with [Calvin Klein’s] amazing and very knowledgeable team on creating underwear that was for all women, keeping the delicate design and combining it with their impeccable developments.” Designing underwear — a natural second skin — given Dojaka a chance to get closer to that realistic context.

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