The Overlooked Burgundy Grand Cru That Deserves a Place in Your Cellar
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Whether they have ever tasted a drop of its precious nectar or not, every serious wine lover the world over has heard of Romanée-Conti. This walled grand cru is not just the name of a precious Burgundy appellation but also the moniker of the producer that owns it, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Very few are aware that there is only one other grand cru monopole in all of Burgundy that bears the name of its producer: Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley, owned by the Faiveley family of Nuits-Saint-Georges, who acquired it in 1874. In a stroke of good fortune, the Faiveleys were required to add their name to the vineyard in 1930 by the High Court of Dijon after the head of the Corton syndicate claimed that the family didn’t have the right to use the Clos des Corton name on their bottles. It became a grand cru alongside all the other grands crus in 1935, when the whole of Burgundy was classified by the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO).
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Situated on the famed Corton Hill, which sits between the villages of Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton, and Ladoix-Serrigny and is home to the acclaimed Corton-Charlemagne and Corton Grand Crus, this clos(walled vineyard) is also a monopole (meaning it is owned by only one producer). It is the site of Domaine Faiveley’s flagship wine, which is just as good as but somehow far less famous than the other Burgundian grand cru that has the producer’s name in its title. Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley is an incredible Pinot Noir that is a darling of wine-world insiders and clearly deserves more recognition.
Seventh-generation proprietor Erwan Faiveley, who runs the domain alongside his sister Eve, tells Robb Report that Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley “is unarguably situated in the best location of Corton, mid-altitude, facing east, on dark, limestone terroir.” The vineyard is currently farmed using organic practices and will be certified organic starting with the 2025 vintage. Faiveley describes the wine as the “Benicio del Toro of Grand Crus,” citing its “solely individual character” and “density, strength, and complexity that set it apart.” Domaine Faiveley owns just shy of 300 acres across 50 appellations in Burgundy and produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 12 grand cru and 25 premier cru sites; the house refers to Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley as its flagship wine. “It is wild and intense but beautiful in its own way,” Faiveley says.
Douglas Barzelay, a noted collector and co-author of Burgundy Vintages—A History from 1845, is a long-time fan of Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley. Corton reds can be fierce, even unyielding in their youth, he says, which is the reason that they have historically been less sought after than other grand crus. But these wines need time. “Collectors who have been willing to be patient have been rewarded by mature wines of great complexity and subtlety,” Barzelay tells Robb Report. Having tasted Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley from legendary vintages such as 1934, 1947, 1949, and 1955, he says, “Today, I’m delighted to have vintages of this wine such as ’09, ’10, and ’15 in my cellar.” The effects of climate change have caused earlier ripening in Burgundy, so although these bottles may reach their peak sooner than previous vintages might have, Barzelay doesn’t expect any loss of concentration, depth or finesse.
Yields can be dramatically different from year to year because of weather conditions. Faiveley produced just 9,086 bottles in the 2020 vintage, 6,370 bottles in 2021, and 13,378 bottles from the 2022 harvest, which was released to market this past year. This most recent bottling is available in New York City at Michelin two-star Atera and neighboring Farra Wine Bar (which has a star of its own), where general manager and wine director Matthew Abbick has it on the list for $1,080. “In a restaurant like Atera, it is essential to feature the best producers and the finest pieces of land,” Abbick says. “The Clos des Cortons Faiveley stands out not only as an exceptional grand cru Pinot Noir but also because of its rich heritage.” Although his clients are often familiar with the Faiveley family and their reputation for remarkable wines, they are often not aware of the Clos des Cortons. “For those with the knowledge and means to explore something truly unique, it offers an exceptional experience that stands apart even among other grand crus,” he says, and the fact it is a monopole should only add to the appeal.
At Harry’s Bar & Restaurant in downtown Manhattan, general manager and wine director Jacob Daugherty is currently featuring the 1995 vintage for $450. He has five additional vintages in the cellar that will make it onto the list when he finds them ready to drink. Daugherty says even at 30 years old, the wine is still youthful.“The tannins have softened, and it is in a lovely state,” he explains. “The power is there, but it has become extremely easy to drink.” And he enjoys pairing it with beef Wellington or lean cuts of steak.
We recently enjoyed the Domaine Faiveley 2020 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru and found it to have a bold nose of black cherry, clove, rose petal, and river rock. It is full bodied, offering velvety tannins and well-integrated acidity wrapped around flavors of raspberry, dried cranberry, and nutmeg with hints of white chocolate and orange zest that linger into a finish marked with a note of saline. This is drinking beautifully now, but those with patience can easily cellar it for the next 20 years. “I am fine being under the radar,” Faiveley says about his family’s flagship wine, but we think he will be equally fine if the secret gets out.
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