This Postcard-Worthy Port in Italy Promises Seafood, Pasta, and Focaccia

Protected from the wind and the sea inside a secluded sandstone-sheltered cove, this little Ligurian fishing village is every bit as charming as it appears from its postcard-perfect shoreline. Historic gelato-colored houses line the harbor — which is now filled with super yachts and pleasure boats — each painted in a symbolic motif that offers clues as to the earliest inhabitants, and many featuring classic trompe-l’oeil (“fools the eye”) techniques like faux windows that have been popular along the Italian coastline since the Renaissance. Ancient olive groves and budding Vermentino vines peek above the craggy cliffs, as the notoriously blue waters sparkle and sway in the bay below.

Portofino is a romance that writes itself, and its fame as a dreamy destination has attracted famous love stories throughout the generations. It is where Elizabeth Taylor got engaged, Kourtney Kardashian said her vows, and numerous international singers have recorded renditions of “I Found Love in Portofino.” Although Portofino’s legacy as a mariner’s village has been left behind in favor of exclusive, glamorous holidays, it has not been forgotten, and fruits of the sea and fresh catches are still as prized as ever.

Seafood is the obvious star here, but Portofino’s prime location in the heart of the Ligurian region also means plates of homemade pasta with local Genovese pesto (a protected recipe), bubbly focaccia, and hearty Ligurian minestrone. Menu prices are often a bit higher at these restaurants than in many other Italian locales, but most Portofino restaurants also offer breathtaking sea views that other restaurants could only dream of having, especially those in the main square, the Piazzetta.

Many of the restaurants in the Piazzetta feature fresh seafood on the menu, but few can do it with the same level of passion and attentiveness as Taverna del Marinaio, where crispy calamari and spaghetti ai frutti di mare are top sellers. The recipes at this seafood-centric taverna were inspired by the owners’ great-grandmother, Santa Schiaffino, whose family legacy extends on the opposite side of the family tree to the taverna’s pricier (second) sibling restaurant, Ristorante Puny. Del Marinaio may not draw as many loyal celebrities and royals as Puny, but it offers an intimate harborside setting with fresh seafood, local wines, and great service.

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Ristorante Lo Stella dates back to 1850, and is still family run, where the eighth generation continues to deliver hand-crafted Ligurian recipes from its location in the main square. The restaurant is known for its pastas, and it’s one of the best places to sample authentic pesto alla Genovese with freshly made mandilli pasta. The fish ravioli and risotto Stella are both showstoppers, but few bites can compete with a simple swipe of bread through the rosy crema di gamberi sauce, just like Nonno Puppo used to make.

A bit more avant garde in its presentation, Cracco Portofino is run by Italian celebrity chef Carlo Cracco. His menu plays with Ligurian variations on classic dishes. Ordering a la carte allows the chance to sample surprising bites like marinated egg yolk with white asparagus, chamomile, and pollen, but the chef also offers a tasting menu that changes daily based on what is fresh and what was caught that day.

Related: Why Seafood Lovers Should Plan a Trip to This Under-the-Radar Italian Island

Cooling off with an artisanal gelato at Gelateria Bar San Giorgio often means ordering the paciugo, a Ligurian ice cream sundae of sorts. A cold glass of seasonal fruit sets the base and is then topped with gelato and whipped cream. The cherry on top? Marinated sour cherries that drip juice down the mountain of cream and gelato, earning the dish its name, which roughly translates to “mess.”

Local wine shop Winterose doubles as a wine bar and tasting room for anyone looking to sample Portofino wines. The wine bar stocks bottles from all around Italy and aims to help visitors discover some of the lesser known wines of the local region. It’s often behind the lens of a cool glass of Ligurian Vermentino that Portofino begins to shine its brightest. It’s a place where creators and tastemakers coincide, where foodies and fishermen coexist. Portofino’s mystique is found in the way fishermen in wool caps still untangle their nets from the same harbor where moored yachts offer passage for hungry visitors seeking to taste the purity and refinement of one of Italy’s most idyllic seaside villages.

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