Retinol Alternatives: Do Any Of Them Actually Work?
Retinol is the gold standard of anti-aging topical skin care — it’s used to promote cell turnover and enhance the production of collagen, which helps with issues like fine lines, hyperpigmentation and acne. But it’s not for everyone. If you have sensitive, eczema-prone or rosacea-prone skin; are pregnant or breastfeeding; or have a preference toward natural or organic skin care, you may be better served by a retinol alternative.
“Traditional retinol is made with vitamin A and helps accelerate cell turnover as well as collagen production but can cause irritation in sensitive skin types,” said Dr. Jeannette Graf, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mt. Sinai School of Medicine. “Retinol alternatives have different ingredients such as bakuchiol, peptides, azelaic acid and alpha hydroxy acids, which, when combined, can [have] the same effect as traditional retinol without causing any irritation or redness.”
The good news is that there are tons of retinol alternatives on the market, and some of them can yield similar results to the OG chemical with few to none of the side effects. The bad news? The sheer number of alternatives is overwhelming, and it’s tough to parse out the most effective subs from the more questionable ones. Plus, “retinol alternatives” seems to be a bit of a loosely defined term, and dermatologists feel not every ingredient that is marketed as such truly qualifies.
“Retinol alternatives” fall into two buckets, explained Dr. Robyn Gmyrek, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Columbia University. First are those that are not derived from vitamin A, “but still bind to the retinoic acid receptors and function like retinoids” (for example: bakuchiol). The second bucket includes ingredients that “actually have nothing to do with vitamin A or retinoic acid receptors” and are “just called retinol alternatives because they can stimulate collagen” (like niacinamide).
Dermatologists have mixed opinions on whether it’s appropriate to classify the second type as a true retinol alternative, and which ingredients even fall into the category if so. Still, if you’re venturing into the world of retinol alternatives, these are the major players to know:
Bakuchiol
If we’re assessing how well an ingredient fits the term “retinol alternative,” bakuchiol is the undisputed A+ student. The babchi plant-derived extract “stimulates collagen in the skin by the same DNA pathways as retinol, leading to improved collagen production, decreased collagen breakdown and reduction of melanin (pigment) synthesis,” Gmyrek said. “Similar to retinol, it improves fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation. Bakuchiol is also antioxidant-rich, preventing oxidative damage and exerting anti-inflammatory effects.”
“It is reported in studies to be as effective as a retinol and even less irritating to the skin, though twice daily use is needed, and it may take a bit longer to see results,” she added.
Check out our full explainer for a list of products containing bakuchiol.
Rambutan
“Rambutan is a great retinol alternative,” said board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon Dr. Dendy Engelman. Rambutan is a tropical fruit native to Southeast Asia. “It shares many skin care benefits with retinol, including promoting cell turnover and collagen production; addressing lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and other aging signs; fighting free radical damage; and protecting the skin against oxidative stress without causing irritation or purging. As a bonus, rambutan is also hydrating.”
Graf added: “This natural ingredient will act practically the same [as retinol] and show the same benefits, as it has antioxidants that will also help nourish your skin.”
However, Gmyrek noted, “more studies need to be done to determine if it truly stimulates collagen and elastin.”
Peptides
“Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of certain proteins needed by the skin, like collagen and elastin,” Gmyrek said.
“Working by signaling the skin to produce more collagen, peptides can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” Engelman said. “Unlike retinol, peptides do not promote cell turnover but instead focus on strengthening the skin’s structure.”
As a result, peptides “will have similar effects [to retinol] but work differently,” Graf concluded.
Azelaic acid
“Azelaic acid is another pregnancy-safe alternative, which is especially great for those with eczema, hyperpigmentation and rosacea. It works to prevent hyperpigmentation and reduce inflammatory effects such as redness and swelling,” Engelman said of the naturally occurring acid found in grains.
“Azelaic acid works to eradicate the bacteria that causes acne, supporting pore health. It is also excellent for brightening the skin and evening out skin tone.”
However, you shouldn’t expect results that are duplicative of what retinol would do. “This ingredient won’t necessarily fight signs of aging and fine lines but will help fight acne and hyperpigmentation,” Graf explained.
Niacinamide
This form of vitamin B can be made synthetically or derived from natural sources. “[It] increases collagen production,” Gmyrek said, “and thus leads to improvement of fine lines and wrinkles.”
“Niacinamide is generally tolerated by all skin types and is known for its oil-regulating and anti-inflammatory properties. Niacinamide is a great tool for balancing sebum production and proactively minimizing acne breakouts,” explained Engelman. “In contrast, retinol is often used as a stronger option for acne when the skin requires a powerful exfoliating agent.”
“In my clinical experience, I believe it does a lot of what retinol does,” noted Gmrek, “but I do not see results in my patients that are as impressive as retinol. I recommend it for [patients with very sensitive skin] who cannot tolerate retinols.”
Graf added that while niacinamide “is a great ingredient to have in your skin care routine as it will brighten your skin while offering anti-inflammatory benefits… [it] should not be used as a replacement for retinol.”
Check out our full explainer for a list of products containing niacinamide.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
These can attain some of the powers of retinol, but not all of them.
“AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acids, are chemical exfoliants that remove dead skin cells and promote a brighter complexion,” explained Engelman. “They improve skin texture, tone and hydration, making the complexion look more radiant and smooth. Unlike retinol, which promotes cell turnover, AHAs focus on exfoliation and improving the skin’s surface clarity.”
Vitamin C
“Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in human skin,” Gmyrek said. “Vitamin C has been proven to lighten unwanted pigmentation, stimulate collagen synthesis, have antioxidant abilities, and protect against skin cancer. So, it addresses the same issues as retinol.”
Still, Graf clarified, “it should not be used as a substitute for an anti-aging product.”
“I recommend incorporating both ingredients into your skin care routine, but it’s important to note that they should never be used at the same time, as they can be irritating to the skin,” Engelman added. “Instead, I suggest using vitamin C during the day, and retinol at night.”
NovoRetin
This plant-based alternative “helps to retain naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin by inhibiting its breakdown,” explained Gmyrek.
“[It] offers anti-aging benefits by attracting moisture to the skin barrier,” added Engelman. “It boosts the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid, enhancing the hydration for a more youthful appearance. This is a great alternative for those who are acne-prone since it also regulates sebum production.”
While “this ingredient will help fight signs of aging,” added Graf, it “might not be as effective long-term.”
HYPSKIN
“HYPSKIN is a bioactive ingredient with skin renewal benefits, targeting concerns such as texture, firmness, fine lines and wrinkles,” Engelman said of the marine algae-derived ingredient. “It’s also anti-inflammatory and light stable, making it a gentler alternative to retinol.”
However, “it has a lower dosage than traditional retinol, so while you will see improvement in skin texture, its efficacy will not be the same,” noted Graf.
RetinART
“RetinART is a marine bio-retinol formulation that claims to provide similar advantages of retinol including anti-aging and acne reduction but without the irritation. Based on microalgae, RetinART encourages cell renewal. It is also sun-safe,” said Engelman.
Still, Graf added, “its long-term effects will also not be as promising as its traditional counterpart.”
Retinaurel
This natural ingredient is “a 5% retinal formulated with glycerin for hydration,” explained Gmyrek, who noted it “increases skin elasticity, cell turnover and dermal thickness, and [it] protects against free radical damage.”
“Due to this ingredient being a blend that contains vitamin A, it will mimic the effects [of retinol], making it a great alternative,” noted Graf.
Fibroquin
The pro-collagen molecule “is not reported to be a retinoid, but it claims to act like one by [promoting] the skin’s fibroblast health in order to maintain levels of collagen production in the skin with aging,” explained Gmyrek.
“In some early studies, fibroquin was actually reported to be more effective than retinol at improving skin elasticity,” noted Engelman. “However, fibroquin is not a true substitute for retinol, as it does not offer many of the other benefits that retinol does (like increasing cell turnover, addressing acne, etc.). Instead, I would recommend using retinol (or other suitable retinol alternatives) in conjunction with fibroquin for best results.”
Lion’s mane
“Lion’s mane or mushroom extract can also be a good natural alternative” that promotes collagen production, noted Graf. “[It] won’t be as harsh on the skin, as it won’t have any irritation or dryness but instead helps soothe the skin with its anti-inflammatory properties.”
Reservatrol
Resveratrol is a naturally occurring compound found in many plants, including grapes, berries and peanuts. Graf likes the “powerful antioxidant that helps visibly firm and reduce the look of wrinkles” as a retinol alternative because it “can help make your skin smoother, improve pigmentation, and increase your skin’s elasticity.” However, she noted, it “will work differently [than retinol] and have different effects.”
Sea Buckthorn
“Sea buckthorn is a plant that contains high levels of vitamins A and C, which makes it a great ingredient for stimulating collagen production, combating signs of aging and brightening and evening out skin tone, similar to retinol. It also helps regulate oil production and moisturize the skin,” Engelman said. “Unlike retinol, sea buckthorn is safe and gentle enough for all skin types to use. However, used alone, sea buckthorn will not work as quickly or effectively as retinol to address signs of aging or cellular damage.”
Looking for a great retinol product? These are the strongest ones you can get over the counter.
HuffPost and its publishing partners may receive a commission from some purchases made via links on this page. Every item is independently curated by the HuffPost Shopping team. Prices and availability are subject to change.
Dermstore
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 20 (0.2% retinal)
I've long heard people rave about this highly-rated serum from Medik8, and I can't say I'm surprised. Everything I've tried from the brand thus far has been effective and left my skin looking and feeling great. This serum can help to address typical signs of aging like wrinkles, texture and tone quickly and efficiently. It's balanced with hyaluronic acid and glycerin to help keep skin supple, soft, smooth and hydrated. It's a great mid-price jumping-off point for anyone curious about trying a retinal.
This cream is the highest run on Medik8's Crystal Retinal ladder, boasting 0.2% retinal (if you're wondering about the difference between retinol and retinal, read this). It's for the most advanced skin care lovers and has double the concentration of the previous highest strength. It's as good as it gets.
Dermstore
SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0 maximum strength refining night cream (1.0% retinol)
If you've ever invested in SkinCeuticals products, you know that they are made with potent, high-quality ingredients that will give you the most bang for your buck. This cream has such a high concentration of retinol that the brand recommends priming your skin with its .5% strength cream for a few months beforehand to see if it can tolerate such a high concentration of retinol. In the more potent version featured here, the strong 1.0% retinol is balanced out with a soothing complex of calming ingredients derived from chamomile and other botanicals to comfort skin and negate potential irritation.
In previous HuffPost reporting, Dr. Deanne Mraz, a board-certified dermatologist at Modern Dermatology in Connecticut and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine, thinks the varying retinol strengths available make this cream a great option for "anyone who needs to downshift to a gentler strength in the cold, dry winter months and turn up the volume [spring through fall]."
Skin Better Science
SkinBetter Science AlphaRet overnight cream (1.0% retinol)
"I love Skinbetter Science’s AlphaRet Overnight Cream," Mraz mentioned in previous reporting. She added that "it combines retinoid with lactic acid and glycolic acids to exfoliate the skin and pairs those benefits with soothing, nourishing peptides, ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and vitamins C + E making the formulation gentle enough for most skin types, including those prone to dryness." The high concentrations of both retinol and AHAs makes this an absolute powerhouse.
Sephora
Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum (0.15% retinal)
This highly-rated and oft-reviewed serum utilizes retinal, niacinamide and ceramides to not only improve the look and feel of skin texture and and common signs of aging, but also reinforce the skin's barrier, smooth skin, even tone and moisturize. It's a powerhouse combo in the form of a lightweight serum that won't feel heavy. It contains .15% retinal, significantly more than most traditional retinol-based products on the market.
Amazon
A313 cream (0.12% retinol)
If you're a fan of French pharmacy beauty, then there's a good chance you've heard of this cult-favorite cream. According to the brand, it uses .12% retinol that penetrates the skin and targets common signs of aging. Many reviewers recommend starting with a very small, pea-sized amount and made note of the cream's thick, greasy finish — it's definitely not for everyone, but those who love it are absolutely devoted to this French ointment. It can be challenging to find it stateside, so make sure you're purchasing from a reputable seller with good reviews.
Amazon reviewer Jessica said she "ordered this after hearing about it from an aesthetician. It has a vaseline-type texture when it goes on. So a little goes a long way. You can definitely feel it tingling after you put it on. It works, but I personally cannot use it more than 2-3 times per week or my skin gets irritated. When I use it regularly, my hyperpigmentation is much better and so are my fine lines and wrinkles. It is definitely worth a try, but if you have sensitive skin, I recommend you start with a small amount and only once or twice a week at most!"
Dermstore
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Retinoid Acne Treatment (0.1% retinol)
This popular and affordable La Roche-Posay treatment is made with adapalene, a prescription-strength retinoid that is primarily used to treat acne, but also has all the other benefits of a traditional retinol. It's incredibly effective and one of only two FDA-approved prescription-strength retinoid acne treatments, along with Differin, that can be purchased over the counter. I used adapalene for years before switching to retinol and tretinoin and found it to be incredibly effective.
Dermstore
Avène Retrinal 0.1 Intensive cream (0.1% retinaldehyde)
I'm a big fan of Avène products; this French pharmacy staple always knows how to strike the perfect balance between using tried and true potent ingredients and nourishing goodness to help keep skin looking and feeling youthful, soft and plump. This cream is no exception, and can help to leave your complexion looking and feeling smooth, radiant, hydrated and fresh. It contains 0.1% retinaldehyde, another word for retinal, which is the fastest-acting retinoid available OTC, as it's a precursor to retinoic acid. It's one of the strongest options out there. If your skin can tolerate it, you'll be amazed to see a youthful glow emerge.
Target
Differin adapalene gel 0.1% acne treatment (0.1% adapalene)
Differin is probably the best known adapalene-based product. It claims that the more toned-down nature of this active ingredient compared to other retinoids which makes it a good all-over face treatment that is suitable for everyday use, even for sensitive skin types. In previous reporting, Dr. Ariel Ostad, a cosmetic surgeon based in New York City, explained that like other forms of retinoids, adapalene, which until 2018 was only available by prescription, works by increasing the skin’s cellular turnover rate — a process that slows down naturally as we age. This means that even though adapalene-based products are marketed as acne treatments, Ostad said that they can also be used to help promote collagen production — and more collagen can mean plumper, more youthful skin with fewer fine lines.
Amazon
Naturium Retinaldehyde cream serum (0.1% retinal)
Get all the benefits of a high-powered retinol without dropping tons of cash with this mid-priced cream serum from Naturium. It proves you don't need to drop an arm and a leg to get good skin care products. It uses sustained-release retinal that can help to refine skin texture and reduce signs of aging like wrinkles and even discoloration. It's the radiance booster you've been waiting for. The brand does offer a lower .05% concentration, but if you've used it for a while or know your skin can handle a stronger amount, you can always go straight to or alternate it with the .10% version.
Dermstore
Allies of Skin Retinal & Peptides Repair night cream (.05% retinaldehyde)
This cream harnesses the power of retinal in combination with peptides, antioxidants and botanicals to nourish the skin while deeply infusing it with all the benefits of powerful, high-quality retinal. It's uniquely balanced to be as effective as possible while also being gentle on the skin, making it a great option for those with sensitive skin who want to dip their toes into the strong retinol waters.
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