Retinol is great for anti-aging, but it can cause peeling. Here’s what to do
Retinoids like tretinoin, adapalene and tazarotene are excellent ingredients for fighting signs of aging, dark spots and acne, but they can come with an annoying side effect: skin peeling.
Sometimes called the “retinol uglies,” this peeling can make your skin look flaky, especially when you apply makeup. Luckily, there are ways to minimize peeling and flaking caused by retinol.
What causes the ‘retinol uglies’?
Retinoids speed up skin cell turnover by increasing the natural shedding process (desquamation) of your skin. This rapid cell turnover helps to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and aging, but it can also lead to flaking, since your skin is shedding dead cells faster than it is used to, causing some cells to build up or peel from the surface. As your skin adjusts to this process, flaking and dryness should gradually improve.
What to do about retinol peeling
Retinol peeling is a normal side effect that tends to occur within the first several weeks of beginning a new retinoid regimen. While you wait for your skin to adjust, use these tips to help minimize peeling, flaking, and dryness:
▪ Gentle exfoliation. While it’s important to avoid over-exfoliating while using retinol, you can use a gentle scrub when necessary, especially before applying makeup. This helps to smooth the skin and remove flakes without causing further irritation. Use exfoliation sparingly, about every three days.
▪ Apply a hyaluronic acid (HA) serum under makeup. Mix a hyaluronic acid serum like Alastin HA Immerse Serum with your makeup to hydrate and smooth the skin, thus reducing the appearance of flaking.
▪ Use a barrier repair moisturizer. Regularly apply a barrier repair moisturizer while using a retinoid to lock in moisture and soothe irritated skin.
How to prevent retinol peeling
While it is not always possible to avoid retinol peeling entirely, you can minimize it by gradually introducing retinoids into your routine. Start with a lower strength and apply it every three or four days at first. Work with your dermatologist to gradually increase the strength and frequency that you apply the product. Avoid using strong exfoliants like glycolic or salicylic acid, which can worsen dryness and flaking while on a retinoid.
Bottom line
Retinoids are some of the best ingredients for anti-aging, hyperpigmentation and acne, but the peeling they cause can be frustrating. Following these tips will help you get through the initial flaking period and allow you to enjoy smoother, healthier skin in the long run.
For more skincare news and advice, follow @SkinTypeSolutions on social media, or browse the Skin Type Solutions library. If you have a question for Dr. Baumann, come talk to her on Reddit at r/skintypesolutions.
