The Runway Rundown: A Perfect Storm For Balenciaga's Spring 2025 Collection
If it were revealed that Demna Gvasalia could control the elements, it would come as no surprise. The creative director staged his Spring 2025 collection for the House of Balenciaga at the Pudong Art Museum in Shanghai beneath the pouring rain.
The pavement became high shine slick beneath the clinical bright white spotlights, with the downpour and the staging creating a perfect hazy mist, framed by the Shanghai skyline–a perfect storm for what was to come.
Guests lined the runway, obscured beneath hundreds of black satin umbrellas, as the models began stomping to the erratic beat of an industrial meets trance techno soundtrack. The collection was a mixture of Berghain-esque all-nighter, high-glamour 1980s, and enduring House codes.
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The show opened with a model wearing a long black duster with exaggerated sloping shoulders and absolutely huge platform boots. This was followed by similar iterations: blazers with thigh-grazing oversized sleeves, floor-skimming trenches, and voluminous Macs–all with platforms so high they could make your eyes water.
There were the to-be-expected hoodies and sportswear coding with uni-lens sunglasses. Of particular note was the model carrying a shoe box as a clutch while on the feet, trainers so oversized they looked fantastically cartoon-like.
There were also more wearable pieces, like great silk shirt dresses and some brilliant accessories–if a giant trench coat as a bag isn’t your thing, then see the sleeker chain link crossbodies and glittering evening styles.
For a Spring collection, it’s to be hoped we don’t get the weather Demna is expecting. Though, if the Donna Haywood Twin Peaks-style leather looks are anything to go by, maybe the rain isn’t too bad after all.
Here, we break down everything you need to know about the Balenciaga Spring 2025 show.
The Setting
Signs that the French House had landed in Shanghai were hard to miss. The Balenciaga logo was projected in lights across the city's skyline, and the letter mark snaked along the side of the Citi building and around the top of towering skyscrapers.
Ahead of the show, the neon lights of Shanghai shone like jewels refracted in the black waters of the Huangpu River while a screen showed a collection of clips from swimming koi fish and urban sprawls to a couple holding hands.
It was a very rainy affair, though the downpour only added to the mood. Guests lined the runway, or rather pavement, on the Pudong Art Museum grounds, and were almost entirely obscured by satin black umbrellas, which, from above, created a contrast frame around the models.
The Clothes
Oversized suiting opened the show, setting the scene with industrial urban moodiness. Huge exaggerated silhouettes took centre stage—think sloping padded shoulders and massive blazers paired with sky-high flatform boots.
Then came the more casual fair. Balenciaga logo T-shirts, hoodies, and belted jeans hanging so low that near-full boxers were on show. More refined looks followed, like ditsy floral printed shirt dresses with white socks and strappy sandals. Next for Demna's take on spring were subverted classics, huge pinstripe shirting, and popped collar shirt dresses, as well as a brilliant beige Mac-like dress with a low-waisted belt tie.
A group of all-black looks with serious Twin Peaks energy had an 80s throughline. Black midi leather skirts and giant lapel jackets were joined by sharply tailored skirt suits and button-down dresses with bows in hair and glittering accessories.
There were plenty of nods to the couture house's legacy, and the closing looks took a striking, contemporary approach to classic shaping. Demna Gvaslia's take on voluminous eveningwear included duffle bag dresses, and tinfoil gold gathered gowns.
Closing the show with a stand-out trio. First, a white bridal strapless princess dress, then a black velvet gown completely covered in earrings, necklaces and brooches–like a jewellery display counter come to life–and closing with a flamingo pink feathered gown.
The Accessories
Known for outlandish accessories, Demna did not disappoint with the Spring 2025 collection, which was largely a tale of two halves.
There was a dramatic, cartoon-like exaggeration, a mood established by the very first model who clomped down the runway in huge platform boots. Models also carried shoeboxes as clutches that were far too small to have housed the giant ‘10XL’ oversized trainers on foot. For bags, take your pick between giant puffer jacket shoulder bags or floor-sweeping trench totes.
On the other hand, there were far more wearable, covetable pieces. See black opera gloves and silky black bows. The infamous sock boot was present but styled refreshingly with shirt dresses. Meanwhile, croc-effect high-shine crossbody styles and glittering shoulder bags will surely become the it-bags of the new season.
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