Signs of Dehydrated Skin (and How to Fix It), According to Dermatologists
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You’ve been slathering on your go-to facial moisturizer with twice-daily rigor. No matter how liberally you lotion up, though, your skin still feels like it’s stuck in an ultra-arid desert. Sound familiar? These can be signs of dehydrated skin.
For many of us, dry skin can feel like a mystery that goes on unsolved no matter how many steps we add to our skincare routines. Sure, there’s the seasonal element; due to drops in temperature and humidity, skin has a harder time retaining moisture in colder months, per the American Academy of Dermatology Association (and per pretty much anyone who’s experienced a cold winter before). In your case, though, you get the feeling that you may not be moisturizing well or enough, regardless of the season. After all, what else could be causing your face to so often feel this parched?
Before you panic-buy another cream or serum, we asked dermatologists and other skincare experts to help us peek under the hood and understand what really causes facial skin’s moisture levels to act moody. What they told us is that persistent dryness often has a lot to do with how much (or little) hydration your skin has.
Below, we’ll break down why the difference between dry and dehydrated skin matters, the signs of each to look out for, and how to quench your thirsty skin for good.
In this article, find answers to:
What's the difference between dry and dehydrated skin?
First things first: Dry skin and dehydrated skin aren’t the same thing! And either one could be the reason why your skin feels like it’s spent time in the Sahara.
To help explain the difference between dry and dehydrated skin, Dr. Deanne Mraz, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Yale New Haven Hospital, put it in simple terms: “Dehydrated skin lacks water and hydration while dry skin lacks its natural oil, sebum. Dry skin is a skin type, while dehydrated skin is a temporary status or condition.” Additionally, dehydrated skin can affect all skin types, from dry to oily. While Dr. Mraz notes that the terms dry and dehydrated are often “used interchangeably,” she says it’s worth knowing the difference.
So, what does dehydrated skin look like? And how can you tell if your skin is dehydrated vs. dry? Although the terms mean different things, there’s a lot of overlap in the visible symptoms of each, complicating matters. Not only that, but dryness can be a symptom of dehydration, Dr. Tasneem Poonawalla, a board-certified dermatologist at Expert Dermatology, told us.
“Dry patches or flakiness are common signs of skin dehydration,” Dr. Poonawalla said. “These are areas where your skin’s moisture barrier has been disrupted, and it can no longer retain water effectively.”
If the dry vs. dehydrated skin conundrum feels like just another skincare riddle to unravel now, know that some skincare products are designed to add both moisture (to address dryness) and hydration (to address dehydration) to the face. That can help simplify your go-forward plan. Valerie Aparovich, a biochemist and certified cosmetologist-aesthetician at OnSkin, says to look for a combination of humectants, emollients, and occlusives — which is the ingredient behind the derm and TikTok-approved slugging trend — to restore moisture and hydration. (We’ll get into the differences between all three of these, as well as more hydration hacks, soon.)
What happens if dry or dehydrated skin is left unchecked? Dr. Liv Kraemer MD, a board-certified dermatologist and Founder of Dr Liv Skin Clinic & Dr Liv Skincare, says the “consequences are the same” for both skin states. Chronically dehydrated skin can lead to acne breakouts, itching, and a loss of skin elasticity, making the face more prone to fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging with time. (Meaning that, yes, wrinkles from dehydration are real!) Meanwhile, severely dry skin can also lead to elasticity loss, as well as itchiness and acne.
Ultimately, knowing how to look out for the signs of both dehydrated skin and dry skin ensures you’re not wasting time and money on addressing one without considering the potential role of the other. For each driver of persistently parched skin, we’ll dig into the signs that derms and other skincare experts shared with us so that you know what you’re looking for.
What are the signs your face isn’t properly moisturized or hydrated?
1. Your complexion looks dull.
Aparovich says that “a lack of hydration robs the skin of its natural glow, resulting in a flat, lifeless appearance. It also exacerbates uneven texture and tone, preventing light from reflecting as it would on hydrated skin.”
That said, a dull complexion can also be a result of dryness. Dr. Mraz says that dry skin “lacks a bouncy, dewy glow. It can even look tight and more pale than usual.”
2. Your facial skin feels tight, especially after washing it.
Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology, says that “dehydrated skin lacks elasticity, which can feel uncomfortable and tight, especially after washing.” This sensation “often means your skin’s barrier is compromised,” she adds, “reducing its ability to retain moisture and leaving it more susceptible to environmental damage.”
3. Your face is itchy, sore, or red.
When skin is dry, its barrier — or outermost layer — is weakened, Dr. Mraz says. The result? Skin that’s “compromised and more vulnerable to outside irritants, ranging from skincare products and environmental impurities to weather conditions,” she says.
These irritants “are able to penetrate and cause inflammation and irritation. This can leave skin red, itchy, and sore,” she says. “Sometimes the inflammation is even visible, leaving your skin looking puffy and raised.”
Itchy, irritated skin can also be a symptom of dehydration. Noticing that even long-time favorite products are suddenly causing adverse reactions? That makes sense, given Dr. Poonawalla’s explanation that “dehydrated skin tends to overreact to products that wouldn’t normally irritate it.”
4. Fine lines are more visible than usual.
Hydrated and moisturized skin “instantly plumps up and blurs fine lines and wrinkles,” Dr. Mraz says. She notes the “opposite is true for dry, dehydrated skin. When the skin lacks moisture, these fine lines can appear more pronounced.”
That’s due partly to the role plumpness plays in naturally smoothing out the skin’s surface, per Dr. Poonawalla. "When the skin is lacking moisture, it can lose its plumpness, which makes lines more noticeable,” she adds.
5. You have dark under-eye circles, and your eyes appear “sunken.”
This one can be a big sign that your skin isn’t hydrated enough. Because dehydrated skin loses elasticity, this causes “the skin around the eyes to sag and darken,” Aparovich says. The resulting sunken appearance “results from the lack of water,” she explains, “which affects the structural integrity of this delicate area.”
6. You’re noticing peeling, flaking, and rough textures on your face.
Excessive dryness and dehydration can both “accelerate the shedding” of dead skin cells, according to Aparovich. “Abnormal peeling and the appearance of skin flakes often signal that the outer skin layer has become too dry to function properly,” she says. “Without sufficient moisture, the skin’s surface flakes off, leading to a rough and uneven texture. It happens as dehydrated cells detach more visibly than hydrated, healthy ones.”
7. Rather than dry, your skin actually feels oily.
This one’s a bit sneaky. Aparovich says that “dehydrated skin can overcompensate by producing more sebum, which may clog pores and provoke blackhead formation. This paradoxical response often makes people mistakenly think their skin is over-moisturized, confusing their skincare routines. “
8. Your skin is starting to crack.
In cases where extreme facial dryness and dehydration collide, you may even notice cracks in your skin start to appear. That not only impacts your complexion but also introduces some health risks.
“(The skin’s) vulnerability causes inflammation and sensitivity, leading to visible redness,” Aparovich says. If left unaddressed, she says, “desert-dry skin starts to crack,” which is responsible for “allowing bacteria to enter and provoking irritation and the risk of infection.”
Could anything else be causing these dry, dehydrated skin signs?
Specific skin conditions that go beyond general dryness and dehydration could also be at the root of cracked, chapped, or otherwise irritated skin.
“It can also be an underlying skin condition, such as dermatitis or eczema, keeping your skin dry and not retaining moisture,” Dr. Jeannette Graf, a board-certified dermatologist and Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine says. If your skin has been consistently irritated and non-responsive to typical moisturization and hydration fixes, it’s always a good idea to “consult your dermatologist to verify if this is the cause, and then follow a specific skincare regimen in order to not worsen it,” Dr. Graf adds.
For those of us whose upset skin can be linked to factors like poor hydration, environmental changes, or moisture-stripping skincare practices, adapting our routines to address both facial moisture and hydration ensures we’re counteracting dryness from the inside out (and vice versa). To get started, check out our skincare experts’ tips below, from the products they recommend to the lifestyle decisions they make.
Sun shine on the sea
Luis Diaz DevesaHow do I keep my face moisturized AND hydrated?
1. Drink water and plenty of it.
It may sound overly obvious, but there’s really no alternative to first making sure you’re drinking enough water every day.
“Dehydration means that your body is losing more water than it’s taking in.” Aparovich says. “Therefore, staying hydrated internally is the foundational step to combating the problem. Replenish your body’s water content by drinking at least eight glasses of water daily.”
While eight glasses a day is a good rule of thumb, know that environmental and lifestyle factors can also influence how much water your body is losing. Dr. Viktoryia Kazlosukaya, MD, PhD, a board-certified dermatologist and owner of Dermatology Circle PLLC, says that “individual needs vary” and that “lifestyle factors such as physical activity, climate, and diet,” as well as certain medications, can all play a role in how much water you’re actually losing (and how much of it you should therefore be drinking).
Paying attention to your own unique body — and not just population-wide averages — matters. You can start with the general recommendation for daily water intake and “monitor how you feel, as well as the color of your urine,” Dr. Kazlosukaya says. “Very dark urine may indicate dehydration.”
2. Exfoliate (the right way).
While Dr. Mraz says that exfoliating skin that’s irritated or vulnerable may “sound contrary to logic,” she explains that “exfoliation is key to getting and maintaining hydrated skin.” Not every exfoliant will be your friend here, though.
Dr. Mraz recommends opting for a “gentle, chemical exfoliant — you don’t want to use a physical scrub or brush to exfoliate dry skin, as it’s too sensitive and can cause micro-tears in the skin and worsen irritation and inflammation.” For her part, she likes Skinbetter AlphaRet Peel Pads, which can be used “a few evenings per week to gently keep dead skin cells on the move and allow for hydrating ingredients in your skincare to most effectively penetrate and do their job.”
Dr. Kraemer agrees that sloughing off dead skin cells is important, explaining that “mostly what people define as ‘not moisturized’ are the dead skin cells on top.” This means that “with serum and cream, you’re just reducing the symptoms, not the cause,” she adds. Instead, to increase cell turnover, Dr. Kraemer recommends using an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) product to “remove the dead skin cells and make your barrier thick again.”
3. Don’t over-wash your face.
Plan to wash your face gently twice daily — once when you wake up and once before you go to bed. Resist the urge to wash any more often than that, no matter how parched your skin feels. Overwashing can actually worsen dryness and open the door to other skin issues. As Dr. Kraemer shared with us previously: “Do not wash more than twice, or you risk damaging your skin and making a pathway for bacteria.” The one exception? Days you hit the gym. Always wash off your makeup before you exercise and do another wash when you’re done to “cleanse away sweat and bacteria,” Dr. Kramemer told us.
Overdoing it with face washing isn’t just about frequency. It’s also about what you’re washing with. For starters, Dr. Idriss says to “avoid hot water. Use lukewarm water to avoid stripping natural oils that are essential for maintaining moisture levels.” Along with warm water, you’ll want to use a hydrating cleanser that “gently cleanses the skin without stripping it of its natural moisture,” she says.
What type of cleanser is best? Aparovich recommends looking for a “hydrating, sulfate-free cleanser formulated with milder surfactants, like lauryl glucoside or coco glucoside, to protect the skin’s natural oils and prevent it from further moisture loss.”
Once you’re done and have patted your skin dry, take care not to use “a harsh towel” for that purpose, per Dr. Graf. This is when your skin will be most receptive to hydrating products that help lock in skin moisture. (We’ll look at some derm-approved products for that soon!) Always be sure to top them off with daily SPF, Dr. Graf adds, no matter the weather or amount of time you expect to be outside.
4. Consider pressing pause on retinol, at least for now.
Dr. Kazlosukaya stresses “being mindful” with retinol. “If you’re using retinol, ensure it doesn’t exacerbate dryness,” she says. “Choose a non-irritating formula, consider taking breaks, or layer it with a moisturizer.”
5. Bust out a humidifier at home.
Although skin can be dry and dehydrated any time of year, using a humidifier in colder months can be extra helpful for retaining skin moisture and hydration.
“In the winter months, when many of us are trapped indoors with the heat pumping, the air is very dry,” Dr. Mraz says. “Putting a cool mist humidifier in the rooms you spend the most time in can add a significant amount of moisture to the air, which will benefit your skin.”
6. Target dehydration from the inside out with hydrating, vitamin-rich foods.
We already talked about the importance of drinking enough water. But Dr. Kazlosukaya says that what we eat (and don’t eat) plays a role in facial skin’s moisture and hydration levels, too, not to mention the collagen production that supports both.
“A diet that promotes hydration should include plenty of vegetables and fruits. These not only have a high water content but also are rich in essential vitamins and minerals that support the synthesis of skin structures,” she says. “For example, vitamin C — a key component of many fruits and vegetables — plays a crucial role in collagen synthesis, which supports overall skin health. Adequate protein intake is also vital, as it provides the necessary 'building blocks' for collagen production. Proper collagen structure is essential for maintaining skin's ability to retain water effectively.”
7. Get your beauty sleep.
We know, we know. This skincare tip is repeated to the point of feeling cliché. But the amount of sleep you get absolutely does impact how moisturized, hydrated, and healthy your skin is.
“Prioritize quality sleep,” Aparovich says. “Aim for seven to eight hours of rest each night to allow your skin to recover and retain moisture. Sleep also prevents puffiness and dullness, common signs of dehydration.”
8. Add hydration and skin barrier support to your skincare routine with the right products…
The dermatologists and skin-care experts we spoke to recommended a skincare approach that addresses multiple common barriers to hydrated, moisturized skin with the help of products like:
Humectant-based hydrating serums or lotions: “Ingredients from a humectant group, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and collagen, can draw water molecules into the skin,” Aparovich says. “Such serums penetrate quickly, helping to relieve tightness and discomfort and boost the skin’s hydration.” Not sure which humectant to start with? Dr. Mraz is a fan of longtime staple Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion, which she says “leverages two wonderful humectants, urea and glycerin, to hydrate the skin and help strengthen the skin’s own moisture barrier.”
Emollient and occlusive-rich moisturizers: What’s the best face moisturizer for dry skin? There’s no one right answer, but ideally, the product you use will have a couple key ingredients. Aparovich says that “emollients, such as ceramides, squalene, and shea butter, repair and support the skin’s barrier, helping compensate for moisture deficiency and preventing transepidermal water loss while nourishing, soothing, and softening the skin.” Meanwhile, occlusives — like waxes, lanolin, and silicones — “enhance the product’s moisture-retention properties,” she adds. “Occlusives form a protective layer on the skin’s surface, locking water molecules in and preventing moisture loss.”
Hydrating face masks: To plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines, Dr. Poonawalla recommends using a hydrating face mask a couple of times a week, noting that masks containing aloe vera, honey, or glycerin, in particular, will help rehydrate the skin.
Hyaluronic acid products: We mentioned hyaluronic acid already as a humectant. But given it’s a “hero ingredient to look for,” according to Dr. Mraz, it deserves its own shout out. Dr. Mraz explains that hyaluronic acid “helps the skin to pull in water from the environment to boost hydration. It’s lightweight and non-comedogenic, and well suited for all skin types.” For specific products to try, she recommends ISDIN’s Hyaluronic Moisture Cream, which contains hyaluronic acid “alongside anti-pollution and smoothing effects that prevent oxidative damage and reduce the visible signs of aging skin,” or ISDIN's HA Booster Ampoules for a “highly concentrated boost of hyaluronic acid.”
Hydrating glycerin mists: Dr. Idriss recommends using one “throughout the day,” adding that you can even make your own DIY version.
9. …but go easy on the number of products you add.
When you’re dissatisfied with the state of your skin — and when an ever-growing number of TikTok-hawked products promise easy solutions — the temptation to slather on multiple creams, cleansers, and serums is understandable. But with irritated skin, less will always be more.
Dr. Poonawalla advises simplifying your skincare routine. Choose gentle, hydrating ingredients like glycerin or ceramides, and avoid harsh exfoliants or fragrances that can further irritate your skin, she says.
Dr. Kazlosukaya agrees. “It may sound counterintuitive, but using fewer products can help,” she says. “Overuse of skincare products can irritate the skin and worsen dryness.”
As with all new-to-you skincare products, it’s best to add only one product at a time to your skincare regimen, allowing your skin to adjust and giving you a chance to pinpoint what works and what doesn’t so that you’re well on your way to hydrated, moisturized skin.
Originally Appeared on Teen Vogue
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