Trussardi Unveils First Collection Under Miroglio Ownership
MILAN — Trussardi’s new chapter is kicking off with a presentation of its fall 2025 collection to retailers in Milan this week — no splashy fashion show or over-the-top communication, as is par for the course under its new owner, Miroglio.
“We’ve entered the Trussardi world with reverence, step by step, and quite humbled by its history,” Alberto Racca, who holds the role of chief executive officer of both Trussardi and Miroglio, said in an exclusive interview.
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During an earlier trip to Alba, in Italy’s Piedmont region, where Miroglio is based, Racca led WWD through the striking Trussardi archives, transferred from Bergamo to the parent’s headquarters shortly after the acquisition last March. Around 60,000 pieces dating back to the ’80s – the brand’s heyday with the ’90s under the lead of the late Nicola Trussardi — and up to 2023 are assembled in a space covering 32,400 square feet.
Racca is set on preserving the uniqueness and heritage of the brand, which was founded in 1911 as a glove maker.
“We started from creating garments and accessories that can resonate today in the heart of people, and not be detached from the life of customers and its history,” said Racca.
For this reason, he has chosen a collective of designers led by Cosimo Dorato, design and product director, and not a single creative director to impress his vision for the brand. “This group of designers are passionate and look at the history in a vertical way, to make it relevant and functional.”
Dorato hails from Oakley and has also worked with Stella McCartney. “He combines creativity, elegance and sportswear functionality,” said Racca.
In the Milan showroom, Dorato highlighted the functionality of the first men’s and women’s collections, designed for the fall 2025 season.
Leather is a staple, given the background of Trussardi, and is rendered in soft versions on jackets and bombers, handbags and even a pretty little black dress.
“We set out as therapists, taking what was good out of each historical period and did not wipe out everything done over the years,” said Dorato. Accordingly, the brand’s signature greyhound logo, first introduced in 1973, is reproduced in both a traditional and modernized way, whether on the linings of jackets or in a cutout version on the buckles of the bags.
At the same time, a parka also showed the logo revisited by Trussardi’s former creative directors, Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby, who turned it into a graphic circular form inspired by the ouroboros, the ancient symbol depicting a serpent or dragon eating its own tail. “But the logo is always almost invisible and not invasive,” said Dorato. Racca described the greyhound as a “dynamic, elegant, noble and loyal” symbol.
Two greyhounds also face each other in a new motif that goes with the wording Gentle Society — pointing to the community of designers — seen for example on a range of sweaters and hoodies.
From the time Milan Vukmirovic was at Trussardi, in the 2007 to 2011 period, the team revisited a jacket and pants combo in leather that actually looks like denim.
Denim itself is also a strong component of Trussardi’s history and was offered in 13 different washes, in classic styles as the brand never embraced ripped or slashed versions, Dorato said. There were also several takes on corduroy, on boxy jackets or employed as details on the collars.
The team reprised the A-line shape popular in the ‘80s on women’s quilted jackets and coats.
Safari jackets, also a staple at Trussardi in that era, were revisited with a modern fit. “We want to avoid nostalgia,” said Racca.
As part of a group of fluid pantsuits for both men and women, a women’s style was presented with a shirt-jacket in a fetching burgundy shade.
Knitted polos were sure bets.
Miroglio acquired Trussardi from Italian independent asset management company QuattroR. In addition to saving and further developing the storied brand, the agreement allowed Miroglio to enter the premium range of the market and expand its portfolio by adding menswear and accessories, said Racca.
QuattroR took a controlling stake in the Italian fashion brand in 2019, but last year employees were put in “cassa integrazione,” or into a government-funded redundancy pay, and the company filed for a restructuring plan with creditors that allowed it to continue to operate under the so-called process of “composition with creditors.” Former CEO Sebastian Suhl exited the brand in March 2023.
Racca, who with Miroglio set up a new company that is debt-free, underscored that Trussardi has the authority to be a true lifestyle brand, as Nicola Trussardi opened Palazzo Trussardi near the La Scala theater in 1996 as one of the first concept stores in the world, merging fashion retail with food, while also serving as an exhibition space for artists and architects. The building was not part of the sale and remained in the hands of the Trussardi family.
Further conveying the concept of lifestyle, among the troves of the archives, which range from gowns worn by singers and actresses on television to exquisitely embroidered dresses, there are Trussardi skateboards, bicycles, golf and tennis collections, a cat carrier bag, and Alitalia uniforms. “It was quite emotional bringing all this to life,” said Racca. “Nicola Trussardi really was a visionary,” he noted, adding that in 1997 he saw the potential of Nicolas Ghesquière, working with the designer who is currently women’s creative director of Louis Vuitton. Nicola Trussardi died in 1999 in a car accident.
Miroglio was founded in 1947 in Alba, in Italy’s Piedmont region, by Giuseppe Miroglio and controls nine brands that range from Elena Mirò and Caractère to Motivi, Oltre and Fiorella Rubino, among others.
Trussardi became part of the group as an independent brand, maintaining its headquarters in Milan. The acquisition included Trussardi’s licenses — for example, the brand’s fragrances, licensed to Angelini Beauty, which are a very solid business.
The brand’s home and furniture licensee Luxury Living Group last year unveiled a three-pronged partnership with MIRA Developments for the first Trussardi-branded residential complex to be built in Dubai’s Al Furjan neighborhood, and Racca said they were sold out.
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